There was a thread a while back where someone cut the holes out for the "frame" and stuck a 2x4 steel tube in and based the rest of the bumper off of those.
I used the factory eight holes along with "strips" running into the rails with nuts welded on them so i could bolt up from the bottom. Sorry I dont have any build pics.
I used the factory eight holes along with "strips" running into the rails with nuts welded on them so i could bolt up from the bottom. Sorry I dont have any build pics.
This is the best way.
mmmm......beefy. strongest rear bumper mounts for a XJ IMHO
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=993533
take thhe 3/4" bar stock for the d rings and run it in the frame rail tie it into the hitch bolts. then add a 1/8" plate for the factory mounts you should be good plus when your pulling a toy out all the force goes right though the 3/4" and you don't have to trust your welds if you weld like i do.
i did something similar on my bumper tire carrier. i used all 5 hitch bolts per side and also the stock 4 bumper bracket bolts each side. my bumper has a total of 18 bolts holding it on. i did the D ring tab different. my tab is 3/4" thick but made of 3 pieces. the center piece is a continuation of the 1/4" wall steel tube that the bumper mount is that runs into the frame rail. its one piece for the added strength. then there is one piece of 1/4" welded to the inside of the tube and another welded with a lap joint to the outside of the box steel tube. the edges of the 3 layers were beveled and then edge welded and ground smooth. i believe this method to be stronger than just welding a piece of 3/4" thick steel for the tabs. but i have a tendency to go a little overkill...
a lot of people have a difficult time getting good penetration into a piece of 3/4" thick steel. especially with a wire welder. and 1/8" plate to the factory mounts would not be very strong. 1/8" is quite easy to deform. i used 1/4" plate on mine but 3/16 would work fine as well.
my tab is 3/4" thick but made of 3 pieces. the edges of the 3 layers were beveled and then edge welded and ground smooth. i believe this method to be stronger than just welding a piece of 3/4" thick steel for the tabs.
a lot of people have a difficult time getting good penetration into a piece of 3/4" thick steel. especially with a wire welder.