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DirtBound
January 6th, 2010, 23:30
so im gonna start building a roof light rack and was wondering before i drill holes if there is any other way to feed all the wiring in to the cab/engine compartment? any pics or advice would be AWESOME. thanks guys!

DesertRunner
January 7th, 2010, 13:26
ive seen it done before withouht drilling a hole it looked terrible! ive always run wires through a hole in the roof with a grommet and use silicon to make sure it didnt leak.

Skullver
January 7th, 2010, 13:36
I used a twist-lock connector screwed into the roof and sealed so I can easily remove the lightbar. It has a rubber lid that seals off the roof connector when it is not plugged in. I have a pic somewhere, I'll look for it.

DirtBound
January 7th, 2010, 14:00
I used a twist-lock connector screwed into the roof and sealed so I can easily remove the lightbar. It has a rubber lid that seals off the roof connector when it is not plugged in. I have a pic somewhere, I'll look for it.


sounds nice. pictures please. :]

Skullver
January 7th, 2010, 14:16
sounds nice. pictures please. :]

for some reason on my pc here I cannot see any of my photobucket albums(except recent uploads), I can see anybody elses' though. strange but I was able to copy and paste from another post I made, no shots of the inside but it is about an 1" or so long on the inside going to two switches, one for the pencils and one for the floods.
Good luck
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a230/skullver/swayaway%20%20bypass%20shocks/lightbarconnector.jpg

jeeper1973
January 7th, 2010, 14:20
go to a fastener parts store... meaning a nuts and bolt supplier. they might have water-tight gromets or soething that will seal the hole completely. best place to start.

Blind Driver
January 7th, 2010, 14:29
i have a friend who ran it through the back. i suggest this only is you have a tone of wire. he ran it the length of the back then through the hatch and then back through the car.

austinaubinoe
January 7th, 2010, 14:54
DUDE that plug thing is hardcore!

Dirtbound: did you consider the JCR light bar thing? was thinking about it. anything you didnt like about it? its only like $100, and can be ordered to mount 5 inch or 7 inch lights.

When I have the money I think Im gonna get 4 of those $99 7" HID's from crown or whatever and get the JCR lightbar. I would probably run the wiring down the homemade PVC snorkel im working on and straight under the Hood.

xcm
January 7th, 2010, 15:53
DUDE that plug thing is hardcore!

Dirtbound: did you consider the JCR light bar thing? was thinking about it. anything you didnt like about it? its only like $100, and can be ordered to mount 5 inch or 7 inch lights.

When I have the money I think Im gonna get 4 of those $99 7" HID's from crown or whatever and get the JCR lightbar. I would probably run the wiring down the homemade PVC snorkel im working on and straight under the Hood.


how east coast...

tbburg
January 7th, 2010, 21:30
go to a fastener parts store... meaning a nuts and bolt supplier. they might have water-tight gromets or soething that will seal the hole completely. best place to start.You could also try a marine supply outfit. Some sort of marine grade electrical Bulkhead Pass-Thru Fitting would be water tight.

DirtBound
January 8th, 2010, 00:05
DUDE that plug thing is hardcore!

Dirtbound: did you consider the JCR light bar thing? was thinking about it. anything you didnt like about it? its only like $100, and can be ordered to mount 5 inch or 7 inch lights.

When I have the money I think Im gonna get 4 of those $99 7" HID's from crown or whatever and get the JCR lightbar. I would probably run the wiring down the homemade PVC snorkel im working on and straight under the Hood.


i saw that and i kinda liked it but it think i want something with a bar going across the bottom to mount the lights on. the jcr just looks like it unfinished. im just gonna make my own that'll fit 4 6" lights. prolly some kc slim lights. and then later on when i get my bumper made and mounted im gonna stick 2 or 3 HID's on it. i think that'll be enough lights. :]

DirtBound
January 8th, 2010, 00:13
for some reason on my pc here I cannot see any of my photobucket albums(except recent uploads), I can see anybody elses' though. strange but I was able to copy and paste from another post I made, no shots of the inside but it is about an 1" or so long on the inside going to two switches, one for the pencils and one for the floods.
Good luck
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a230/skullver/swayaway%20%20bypass%20shocks/lightbarconnector.jpg

i like that look! now i just wish i could see the mounts for the light bar. they look nice. im probably just gonna make some cheap gutter mounts out of 1/8' and 1/4' steel plate.

jeepfreak1020
January 8th, 2010, 07:20
I ran my lighst into the cab with out drilling a hole in the roof. I was able to run the wire right by the A piller then into the door jam and then used some stuff from ACE to keep the wire in the door jam. Then ran it through the fender into the engine bay straight to the battery. Ive done a ton of trail with trees and shrubs rubbing the jeep and havent had any problems catching the 3" of wire that exposed, prob because it tight right against the body so I dont have to worry about it.

xjintx
January 8th, 2010, 07:57
I'd like to see what that connector looks like on the inside of your rig if possible.

Also what may be the source?

Skullver
January 8th, 2010, 12:20
i like that look! now i just wish i could see the mounts for the light bar. they look nice. im probably just gonna make some cheap gutter mounts out of 1/8' and 1/4' steel plate.

they are mounted using bushings to my cage a-pillars, no windshield, so probably not for the everyday rig.

I am not by my truck or a camera or I'd post a pic of the inside, I'll try and get one later on. I'll also look for the data on the connector I used and post the details when I get a chance.
cheers
Chris

DirtBound
January 8th, 2010, 12:32
they are mounted using bushings to my cage a-pillars, no windshield, so probably not for the everyday rig.

I am not by my truck or a camera or I'd post a pic of the inside, I'll try and get one later on. I'll also look for the data on the connector I used and post the details when I get a chance.
cheers
Chris

that would explain why it look so clean.... not gonna happen any time soon for me... ha.

thanks for all the ideas Guys, and Chris!

ert01
January 10th, 2010, 13:33
I like that connector a lot... where did you get it and how many circuits can it handle? (how many pins are there in it?)

dennis461
January 10th, 2010, 15:10
I only have two small 50 watt halogens clamped to the roof rack.
I used this part to get the positive wire through.
The wire from the fuse bolts to the piece inside, the wire on the roof is connected to the outside. The two plastic part seals the hole.
The exposed parts could be sealed from corrosion with clear nail polish, I'm not worried about it though and mines over a year with no loss of power.
.


http://www.kvconnection.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=14-021-E4&click=4105

I drlled up from inside at the courtesy light (after pulling it down).
Then fished the wire over to the A-piller (this was the hard part.

.
Good part about this, it's a small hole in case I rip it out later.

Here is another version...
http://media.digikey.com/photos/Keystone%20Elect%20Photos/7004.jpg

DirtBound
January 10th, 2010, 23:44
I only have two small 50 watt halogens clamped to the roof rack.
I used this part to get the positive wire through.
The wire from the fuse bolts to the piece inside, the wire on the roof is connected to the outside. The two plastic part seals the hole.
The exposed parts could be sealed from corrosion with clear nail polish, I'm not worried about it though and mines over a year with no loss of power.
.


http://www.kvconnection.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=14-021-E4&click=4105

I drlled up from inside at the courtesy light (after pulling it down).
Then fished the wire over to the A-piller (this was the hard part.

.
Good part about this, it's a small hole in case I rip it out later.

Here is another version...
http://media.digikey.com/photos/Keystone%20Elect%20Photos/7004.jpg

do you have any pictures of how this turned out on your truck? thanks.

dennis461
January 11th, 2010, 17:32
My rig is a bit dirty...
I put red silicone caulk around the connector, and made a mess.
Inside, I removed the electrical tape for a better look.

The second picture is looking straight up.
I replaced the dull yellow courtesy light with a K-mart light with built in switch and left the hole in the headliner.


http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt50/dennis461/1-1-2010/GEDC0039.jpg

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt50/dennis461/1-1-2010/GEDC0037.jpg

Skullver
January 13th, 2010, 08:57
I like that connector a lot... where did you get it and how many circuits can it handle? (how many pins are there in it?)

It is Mcmaster Carr part numbers: receptacle: 2671k15, plug: 2671k13. This can handle 30 amps at 48 VDC(obviously only running at 12VDC) and I used #8 wire.

kpj2xj
January 20th, 2010, 20:42
just drill.
seal it with RTV

mrmikey32
January 20th, 2010, 20:46
ill have to get you guys the part number. but i use something for security cam installs, and roof top installs of wire. its water tight, and would be perfect for this.

mrmikey32
January 20th, 2010, 20:49
this is not the one, but its very similar to it

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=263-637&source=googleps