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Holy Cheap SYE.....

It's a handy kit and reasonably priced but not super cheap. If you figure the following.

$20 for the driveshaft at the local u-pull JY
$60 for the yoke
$5 for the hardware

Then add time and effort to gather the parts and clean them up? $200 is okay.

Personally I would go with the RE $99 kit which includes the tap and everything except the shaft. Then get the shaft locally. In fact, that is probably exactly what I'm going to do.
 
The reason the kit is slated for 96 and up is that the 1310 yoke must not fit the seal on the older 231s.

This is actually better than getting a RE flange kit, getting a used DS, and then having to buy an adapter to put the two together. There are some writeups on this site, and on GoJeep for using the 1310 yoke.

The outfit is offereing a 30 day warranty on the used DS, which is better than the tail light warranty you will get from the JY. Around here, many of the DSs are bent because the morons at the yard use loaders to move the vehicles around and the forks bend the shafts.

For the person who does not have the desire to run out to the JY and pull an unknown shaft from under a Jeep at 2deg above zero, this is a reasonably costed kit.

Ron
 
thats a re badged iron rock off road hack and tap, its even the same picture, csl is basically a parts house that sells everyone else's stuff for higher.
 
That kit is so full of FAIL.

The 96+ 231 has an unsupported tailshaft (no bearing/seal on the slipyoke to cut down on vibration) - thats why you really need an SYE after about 3 inches of lift. Leaving that weak point and adding more weight at the end of the tailshaft isn't doing anyone a favor.

..and then junkyard OEM front driveshafts repainted? Those shafts are BARELY sufficiant for rear use. The splined slipjoint is TINY and the body of the shaft is really thin tube. I'd be afraid to use it for more than a spare to get home with. :/
 
cal said:
That kit is so full of FAIL.
Click to expand...

Any proof ?

The kit is from Iron Rock Off road. It is a Hack and Tap system. It is no different than the RE hack and Tap in theory or performance. The stock output shaft is shortened and a double cardan drive shaft is installed. The IRO SYE yoke is available separately and the IRO SYE is cheaper because you don't have to purchase the Spicer # 211229X adapter Flange like the RE H&T requires.

Many Cherokee owners on This and other Cherokee and Jeep Forums report that a H&T with a stock front drive shaft works well and the drive shaft is substantial enough to survive heavy use.

I have the RE H&T with the # 211229X flange and a stock XJ front drive shaft. Two of the local Jeep club members have the IRO yoke and stock front drive shafts. There is no difference in performance or longevity.

My H&T stock drive SYE shaft has survived 2 Fall Flings in Moab and numerous local 4x4 outings with no ill effects.

.
Hell's Gate
standard.jpg
 
cal said:
That kit is so full of FAIL.


..and then junkyard OEM front driveshafts repainted? Those shafts are BARELY sufficiant for rear use. The splined slipjoint is TINY and the body of the shaft is really thin tube. I'd be afraid to use it for more than a spare to get home with. :/
Click to expand...


I have been wheeling the crap out of mine set up like this for over a year.

bonus is that you can carry one spare driveshaft to trail fix either one if they fail.
 
Tim_MN said:
Any proof ?
Click to expand...

i had heard cal's negative opinion on using a front d/s out back, and after seeing a proper aftermarket driveshaft, i would NOT use a stock front in the back for anything but a spare...

its really basically the same as an axle argument, not everyone needs 35spline DANA 60 axles, and you may be fine with 27splines stock axles, but the big boys demand more... its one thing to say 'i dont wheel hard, so i'll be fine. cheaping out on the driveshaft? VERY FOOLISH!! i dont EVER want to lose a driveshaft at speed!

I dont know what kinda wheeling you do in minnesota, but i know where cal wheels, and i think i'll take his word for it.
im not even a rock crawler, but $250 for drivetrain peace of mind? i'll take two.
 
cal said:
Those shafts are BARELY sufficiant for rear use. The splined slipjoint is TINY and the body of the shaft is really thin tube. I'd be afraid to use it for more than a spare to get home with. :/
Click to expand...

Thin tube? All the fronts I've cut apart were .120" which is what you'll usually get in the aftermarket.

Small slip spline, yes..
 
xcm said:
i had heard cal's negative opinion on using a front d/s out back, and after seeing a proper aftermarket driveshaft, i would NOT use a stock front in the back for anything but a spare...

its really basically the same as an axle argument, not everyone needs 35spline DANA 60 axles, and you may be fine with 27splines stock axles, but the big boys demand more... its one thing to say 'i dont wheel hard, so i'll be fine. cheaping out on the driveshaft? VERY FOOLISH!! i dont EVER want to lose a driveshaft at speed!

I dont know what kinda wheeling you do in minnesota, but i know where cal wheels, and i think i'll take his word for it.
im not even a rock crawler, but $250 for drivetrain peace of mind? i'll take two.
Click to expand...


I agree with you there. I am building my DD to drive to MOAB, wheel and come back in one peice. I'd rather not worry about blowing up a DS and get a good TW shaft for the rear!
 
Small slip spline is right. Never had an issue with the shaft itself but went through two different shafts due to so much play in the slip spline joint which eventually causes some vibe. I upgraded to a coast driveline shaft from northridge, I was suprised the difference in size and size of slip spline.
 
JJacobs said:
Thin tube? All the fronts I've cut apart were .120" which is what you'll usually get in the aftermarket.

Small slip spline, yes..
Click to expand...

Yes,but tube diameter also is important in strength.If you want spline strength,heres my sons(I believe the spline is 1.5").
frontdrive.jpg
 
Last edited:
I ordered the kit from Iron Rock over Christmas (the flange is backordered). One question maybe you guys could guide me on. If I install it with my current lift, 3.5" in 31" tires, with my Dana 35, 231 transfer case, will the length I cut my output shaft be too short under any of these scenarios: 1-I swap out my rear end for a 8.25" or a Dana 44; 2-I add another inch or two of lift...; 3- ...in order to go to 32 or 33" tires? My plan is to do this and a rear end change this year, gears, tires and extra lift next year.
 
The cut remains the same,you may need to shorten your driveshaft after installing the D44 though!
 
georger said:
I ordered the kit from Iron Rock over Christmas (the flange is backordered). One question maybe you guys could guide me on. If I install it with my current lift, 3.5" in 31" tires, with my Dana 35, 231 transfer case, will the length I cut my output shaft be too short under any of these scenarios: 1-I swap out my rear end for a 8.25" or a Dana 44; 2-I add another inch or two of lift...; 3- ...in order to go to 32 or 33" tires? My plan is to do this and a rear end change this year, gears, tires and extra lift next year.
Click to expand...


You'll be fine you will not have to cut the driveshaft. if anything you will have better spline engagement.

FWIW I would run a stock ft shaft in the rear fulltime. Given >35's. I've seen plenty of folk fo have run that setup on the same shaft wheeling 4.0- trails regularly with out a break. Droping a driveshaft at speeds woudn't concern me either. It's not lke your rear is going to end up getting pitched into the air (thats a myth and is not true( I know for fact)). IMHO if you're not a dedicated trail rig running the 4.0+ everytime the key is on. You're ok running a front shaft.
 
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