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Go 1ton TRE's or new heims?

wannabe

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Aloha Oregon
Im running a D30 with WJ knuckles and heims that need to be replaced. Im trying to decide wether to just replace with new heims or change out to TRE's. The biggest prob. I think I will have with TRE's is that my knuckles are already drilled for 5/8's heims, not sure if I can find TRE's with a larger tapered shaft. If thats true does anyone have suggestions on where to get decent deals on heims and which type to use. The guy who originally built my links didnt use opposite threaded bungs so I will have to tear them apart anyway. Thanks
 
3 questions.

1. How long did you use the hiems?
2. What brand and type?
3. What size hiem joints?


Are you sure you want to switch to one tons? they are 7/8" threads... means you need a whole new steering setup. I like hiems... wouldnt run anything else.
 
Scrappy said:
3 questions.

1. How long did you use the hiems?
2. What brand and type?
3. What size hiem joints?


Are you sure you want to switch to one tons? they are 7/8" threads... means you need a whole new steering setup. I like hiems... wouldnt run anything else.

I bought the axle used so not sure how long they were in there but would guess at least 2.5 years. Not sure on the brand or type. With out looking closer all I remember is they are 5/8 through hole. The 7/8" thread works for me I would just have to get a reamer and done. What heims do u use and where did u get them. Any down side to 1 tons? I running 7.5" RE coils and LA's so I need quite a bit of movement. Thanks
 
wannabe said:
I bought the axle used so not sure how long they were in there but would guess at least 2.5 years. Not sure on the brand or type. With out looking closer all I remember is they are 5/8 through hole. The 7/8" thread works for me I would just have to get a reamer and done. What heims do u use and where did u get them. Any down side to 1 tons? I running 7.5" RE coils and LA's so I need quite a bit of movement. Thanks


The 7/8s is the thread shank. I would assume you either have a 5/8" or 3/4" shank. Which would mean you would need a whole new steering to accommodate the TREs.

I use exclusively FK Teflon coated non greasable hiem joints. Last pleanty long and are the same price as 1tons and are much stronger as well. If you go with 3/4" bore X whatever size shank you have, then put in HIGH MISALIGNMENT spacers to take the bore down to 5/8"... you will have WAY more movement than any TRE. http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=19&cat=98&page=1


I just dont like TREs.... personal preference.
 
Scrappy said:
The 7/8s is the thread shank. I would assume you either have a 5/8" or 3/4" shank. Which would mean you would need a whole new steering to accommodate the TREs.

I use exclusively FK Teflon coated non greasable hiem joints. Last pleanty long and are the same price as 1tons and are much stronger as well. If you go with 3/4" bore X whatever size shank you have, then put in HIGH MISALIGNMENT spacers to take the bore down to 5/8"... you will have WAY more movement than any TRE. http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/product.php?productid=19&cat=98&page=1


I just dont like TREs.... personal preference.

Thanks. I'll look into it.
 
wannabe said:
Im running a D30 with WJ knuckles and heims that need to be replaced. Im trying to decide wether to just replace with new heims or change out to TRE's. The biggest prob. I think I will have with TRE's is that my knuckles are already drilled for 5/8's heims, not sure if I can find TRE's with a larger tapered shaft. If thats true does anyone have suggestions on where to get decent deals on heims and which type to use. The guy who originally built my links didnt use opposite threaded bungs so I will have to tear them apart anyway. Thanks

1-ton TRE's require that the holes in the knuckles get drilled out to 5/8" before they get reamed so your already ahead of the game on that.

I personally like TRE's better than heims, they are easier to setup properly, and replacement can be found at almost any part store. That doesn't mean heims are bad by any means.

We can build 1.25" DOM rods with 1-ton TRE's for your application no problem. Shoot me an e-mail or give us a call if your interested.

~Daryl
JcrOffroad

[email protected]
269-353-1184
 
I have always been a fan of QA1 products. Ive seen them in use at the tracks, and seem to work. Im sure there are other brands that are just as good, if not better though.

I would spring for the Extra High Strength Chrome Moly, Teflon/Kevlar Race rod ends. They come with a 3/4" threaded shank, and a 5/8" hole for the bolt, LH and RH threads. I am going to use these one whenever I get around to building my setup.


http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/CategoryDisplay?storeId=10001&catalogId=10002&catalogIdentifier=Jegs_Direct&categoryId=21161&parentCategoryId=10073

Summit racing also sells rod ends. Browse through thier online catalog.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?Ntt=rod+ends&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=700+4294925130+115
 
What about the heims that Bulletproof Steering uses in their OTK setup?

I am seriously looking at their kit as it seems to be extremely over-engineered. Someone mentioned one of the bolts on the draglink being in double sheer though, so I am not sure... I'm not an engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night...lol
 
Anyone know the difference of misalignment angle between a 1-ton TRE and a 5/8" ID heim with misalignment washers? They would both be about the same amount of money but I think the TRE would last longer. My only real concern is whether or not the TRE can handle the high amount of misalignment needed with my set up.
 
http://www.partsmikeparts.com/tre_30_pic.htm

tre_30.jpg


Is 30 degree's enough misalignment?

-Cal
 
A 7/8" rod end with a High Misalignment Spacer that downsizes to a 5/8" bolt hole provides about 33 degrees of misalignment. That's what I did for my steering. I work at Ballistic Fabrication and we sell both the TRE's shown above and QA1 chromoly kevlar/teflon lined rod ends and I chose the rod ends because they are going to be much stronger. Check out our webpage: www.ballisticfabrication.com for our great prices. We also have a steering kit that gives you everything you need to do this swap (rod ends, tube inserts, jam nute, high misalignment spacers, safety washers, and 1.5" .250 wall DOM tubing) if you want to get rid of the tube that the guy messed up on.

www.ballisticfabrication.com or call us at 520-888-4441

passengerknuckle.jpg
driverknuckle.jpg


I had to chew on this one for a minute. This is a "tech-worthy" post (you give some detail on what you've done,) but it's more "sales" than "tech" - and we've got places for that as well.

I can understand your wanting to help your outfit along - I do the same thing. However, please do keep sales talk in a sales forum or backchannel - something like giving with the tech goodies and "email me for details" or "go here to learn more" with a link would do neatly.

It's not just you - I've been called on doing "sales talk" in public from time to time - and people being what they are, you're probably going to end up deflecting a lot of questions to the back channels. However, please do so - since it will help keep our tech boards relatively uncluttered and easier to search through.

Thank you for your assistance.

5-90
 
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