Say no to K&n

[j99xj]

Maybe I'm becoming wiser, but I'm quickly coming to the conclusion that k&n air filters are a joke.

I've ran one for the last 20,000-30,000 miles and I found dirt on my throttle body a few days ago.

I also found dirt in my air intake tube and manifold.

I'm pissed. :mad:

So I put a regular paper air filter element in my air box.

And guess what?

The Jeep runs the same.

For those thinking about doing a K&n filter as their next mod, take my advice:

:lecture: If I didn't lose performance by going back to a paper filter, then you won't gain performance by going k&n.

Ok I'm done.

[Tyquan]

your soposed to clean the damn thing when it gets dirty with their cleaning products. Paper filters sucks! if you suck a little bit of water into the air intake from wheelin the filter is garbage. atleats you can dry and clean a k&n filter out!

[lilredwagn]

your soposed to clean the damn thing when it gets dirty with their cleaning products. Paper filters sucks! if you suck a little bit of water into the air intake from wheelin the filter is garbage. atleats you can dry and clean a k&n filter out!
FWIW, K&N claims right on the package that you should go 50,000 miles between cleanings - in addition to verbiage that suggests the filter performs better when it is dirty (in which specific case I presume "perform" means "filters dirt" rather than "flows air").

[KarlVP]

I've known that K&N filters are crap for a long time.

They do allow more flow, but sacrifice that in filtration.

Check out this page. And do some more peeking around on Bob's site. He is like an automotive "Mythbuster"


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/airfilter/airtest3.htm

[wilsel]

They do allow more flow, but sacrifice that in filtration.



x2

[CW]

I run a foam prefilter when I'm wheelin or going to be doing extensive dirt road driving. K&N filters do flow more air than a paper filter but you have to give up something for the extra flow. Everything is a sacrifice when modifying a vehicle. Just try to make informed descisions before you buy, but don't get pissed when it doesn't filter as good as a stock paper filter. They make claims about flow not about filtration.

[Hellbent]

i keep my accel kool blue(it's just a blue k&n) in around town, and when offroading anywhere that's not "really dusty". i don't do numerous or deep watercrossings. i take it out and swap my paper filter back in when in dusty areas or whenever going anywhere near the desert. every person i know who has run a k&n on a dirtbike/buggy/whatever for any length of time has found a crapload of dirt in the tb and intake tract. the potential ring/cylinder wear is not worth the little extra flow imo.

[Boostwerks.com]

People forget the logic in these things.

For anything to flow better, it is going to have to have less restriction. What traps the dirt IS the restriction.

They buy into the claims that K/N will filter better than stock, or work just as well with better performance. Well I'm saying the logic doesn't make sense. OEM paper is always the best for effectiveness, and longevity.

[j99xj]

OEM paper is always the best for effectiveness, and longevity.

Damn straight.

[JJacobs]

I've seen quite a few $8K diesel engines wiped out by K&Ns. Old news.

[lost1]

yeah I had one and I came to pretty uch the same conclusion. Waste of money.

[CartsXJ]

Theres a write up in this months JP, testing all the filters for flow and efficience. Check it out. Me, I'll just keep cleaning, re-oiling and using my K&N cone filter. Are there better choices out there, sure, but its what I have and it works for me.

[Jeep914x4]

Theres a write up in this months JP, testing all the filters for flow and efficience. Check it out. Me, I'll just keep cleaning, re-oiling and using my K&N cone filter. Are there better choices out there, sure, but its what I have and it works for me.

I've had my K&N cone for about 100K. It's pretty old and one of my friends decided to squeeze it when he first saw it. It's developing a hole because the wires broke.

What's a good cone replacement that will filter better? It's usually pretty dusty where I jeep.

Thanks

[lost1]

Yeah I saw that article, it pretty much echoes this thread. Its just nicer about it.

[RockTracXJ]

I've had my K&N cone for about 100K. It's pretty old and one of my friends decided to squeeze it when he first saw it. It's developing a hole because the wires broke.

What's a good cone replacement that will filter better? It's usually pretty dusty where I jeep.

Thanks

AEM dryflow looked to be the best.

[Tyquan]

You guys made a really good point about how they advertise flow and not filtration! Very nice!!!!! I guess they do suck!

[badron]

Will K&N make more HP . Run some 1/8 1/4 test before and after. If no improvement? Then it's not helping. It's that simple.
Because any filter can pass more air AT A GIVEN VACUUM DROP or RPM over any other filter does not mean an engine will use this extra air. The stock air filter isn't that bad and for many offers that don't red line (much) and with stock engine will never see any benefits of filter.
Now add a set of OPEN headers. Do open up that poor poop port. Maybe a sweet cam. Then that fancy-dancy air filter will come in real handy.

[BlueCuda]

The only way to get more flow and the same filtration is to get.............a bigger filter :D. I didn't ever find dirt in my intake when running a K&N cone but my oil did get visably dirtier between changes(motor was 3K old so oil looked brand new normally). I changed the filter back to stock and after the next oil change it the oil looked great. Its been 15K miles and the oil is still cleaner at oil change intervals than it was with the K&N at 3K miles.

[jayrhodes]

I guess I've wasted enough money with K&N.
Thanks for the info - I just purchased my first XJ and will stick with the OEM.

[Char-Broil]

K&N doesnt just say to clean it every 50,000 miles...that is just a maximum time between cleanings. if you drive in clean country air all the time and never through dust or construction or mud or water...it will get dirty in a jeep, i clean mine after every time i go off road. Sure it doesnt filter as much as a paper filter, but its not going to kill your engine if you keep it clean. K&N says right on the package to clean it 50,000 miles or less depending on driving conditions. I.E. when it gets dirty clean the air filter so you don't have to clean your intake tube, throttle body, intake manifold...etc

[XJCreeper]

Will K&N make more HP . Run some 1/8 1/4 test before and after. If no improvement? Then it's not helping. It's that simple.
Because any filter can pass more air AT A GIVEN VACUUM DROP or RPM over any other filter does not mean an engine will use this extra air. The stock air filter isn't that bad and for many offers that don't red line (much) and with stock engine will never see any benefits of filter.
Now add a set of OPEN headers. Do open up that poor poop port. Maybe a sweet cam. Then that fancy-dancy air filter will come in real handy.

I'm done with K&N too. Bought 2 of these for my V8 powered T-Bird and my Dakota. I really didn't notice performance gain worthly of talking about.

The main thing I did notice was a loud cool "performance" type sucking sound from under the hood when having fun pounding the gas.

I put these type filters in the noisemaker wannabe performance category. The major pain for me with the K&N would be when some of the filer oil got on the MAF sensor. This was a PITA to have to clean regularly. Having the MAF not sending the correct information to the ECM just screws up the air/fuel mixture defeating the purpose of the "performance" enhancing K&N filter. :flamemad:

[lost1]

ya know, I get that same sucking sound out of my snorkle, and its more audible for those who really care about that stuff. Know what I'm using right now? OEM paper filter, at least until I can fab up a watertight container for a cone-type filter.

[Char-Broil]

adding more air intake ability doesn't necessarily make more horsepower, you will most notice a higher flow air filter with other air intake mods and a less restrictive exhaust. Its like taking in a huge gulp of air and letting it out your nose i guess, you cant take another breath until you expell the air you took in, so there is no point in taking it in faster unless you can pass it out quicker.

[MudDawg]

There are several threads about "oiled gause" air "filters"....this thread is on the right course....if anyone is concerned about getting a pleated paper filter wet.....set up yer junk so it don't get wet!!!!

The best filter system I have seen on these boards is one that "GoJeep" from Australia built up....uses an industrial canister filter and a snorkel...
look it up.

[Bent]

Maybe I'm becoming wiser, but I'm quickly coming to the conclusion that k&n air filters are a joke.

I've ran one for the last 20,000-30,000 miles and I found dirt on my throttle body a few days ago.

I also found dirt in my air intake tube and manifold.

I'm pissed. :mad:



YUP!

Try the AEM Brute force oiless, MUCH BETTER filtration with all of the added flow. The element is larger to compensate for the tighter filter material. Swapping it in to the heat shield of my FIPK required a bit of a shim so that everything fit. All is good and I cant see through my air filter like a screen door, now

:woohoo: .

[hizzo3]

if you want better flow go to a circular paper filter.....more surface area means less restriction....

[j99xj]

The stock intake isn't that restrictive if you take out the silencer and make the square on the front larger even with a paper element.

[BBeach]

The stock intake isn't that restrictive if you take out the silencer and make the square on the front larger even with a paper element. The angle it comes in at isnt really the best, is anyone running the AEM dryflow air filter? ( http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=AVM%2D21%2D2099DK&N=700+115&autoview=sku ) It matches the KN filter that comes with the rustys intake but im not sure if its the same diamater as far as fitting on the tube. Im pretty sure if its only off a little bit then thats what hose clamps are for.

[XgeekstarX]

for water/mud i'd MUCH rather have a paper filter get completely clogged and kill my engine than have a k&n let all that crap past and destroy my engine.

i threw my k&n in the trash after i saw what my throttle body looked like after a few hours of wheeling.

[89Daytona]

AEM dryflow looked to be the best.
They still require a cleaning solution, supplied by AEM. The directions are supposed to be in the box but they weren't in the one I bought for my dad's Durango. I am going to be putting it in next month after I fab up an intake tube for it.

[Weasel]

All the pleated filters suck. I've tried several different types and I always end up with mud and bugs getting lodged in the pleats and unable to clean them out.

Now I'm running a foam filter by True Flow and it's 100 times better. Easy to clean, no c\pleats for stuff to get caught in and better filtration. Even easier to clean then the cotton ones.

[4xSanta]

I have been running an AEM oilless with a outterware sock on it and I take it off after every dusty run and wash it with the garden hose and let it dry out with no problems.

[89Daytona]

4xSanta do you use the cleaning solution on the filter or just use the hose?
How many miles have you had it on for?

[jeepster09]

your soposed to clean the damn thing when it gets dirty with their cleaning products. Paper filters sucks! if you suck a little bit of water into the air intake from wheelin the filter is garbage. atleats you can dry and clean a k&n filter out!


Well said, they are a performance air cleaner setup. They deliver what they promise, however you got to maintain them. Say yes to K&N if you are looking for performance and are not lazy.
:rattle:

[j99xj]

Well said, they are a performance air cleaner setup. They deliver what they promise, however you got to maintain them. Say yes to K&N if you are looking for performance and are not lazy.
:rattle:

I've run everything from a stock intake with a paper filter to an open element k&n cone filter (rusty's kit).

And the absolute best one is a stock airbox with a bigger hole and silencer removed with a conventional paper filter element.

Thats what I run now and it runs as good as it ever did with the huge cone k&n on it.



My throttle body has stayed clean, and my motor oil doesn't turn black like it used to.

[AirmanUtz]

I've run everything from a stock intake with a paper filter to an open element k&n cone filter (rusty's kit).

And the absolute best one is a stock airbox with a bigger hole and silencer removed with a conventional paper filter element.

Thats what I run now and it runs as good as it ever did with the huge cone k&n on it.



My throttle body has stayed clean, and my motor oil doesn't turn black like it used to.

Can you post any pics of this bigger hole mod and silencer removed? I did the same thing with my 350 HP Subaru WRX. I used the stock airbox with the silencer removed. Tested and it didn't have any noticeable restriction.

Keep this in mind... this was a turbo charged 4 banger running 18 psi boost and the stock filter worked fine. The after market intakes are a joke unlesss you're running massive HP, and even my stage 4 350HP WRX didn't need an aftermarket filter! Now think of this in reference to a naturally aspirated 4.0L running half the HP... The stock filter will work fine.

[XJTony]

If your goin to run a high flow filter ...then you need to give it more attention than a stock filter...meaning you have to clean it often ..and keep it freshly oiled ..that oil is what the dust and dirt is goin to stick to ...try experimenting with different products..the more sticky the better...if it isnt lubed properly its goin to let alot more dirt through the foam .....

anyone who rides a dirt bike ..running foam filters knows you have to clean the filter after every ride ....so why not your Jeep after wheeling ....I wouldnt even consider running foam filters in dusty conditions ..its just common sense ...IMO ....

[j99xj]

Can you post any pics of this bigger hole mod and silencer removed?

I just got a saw and cut a rectangle on the drivers side of the airbox. I chose the drivers side to reduce the risk of water splashing in and ruining the engine, but I don't go mudding and I don't cross deep rivers so I'm not too concerned about it.

I got the idea for the intake silencer from a guy that has a one of the best websites out there.

http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSilencer.htm

[4xSanta]

No,Just water and it is used offroad only and the one on there is 8 months old and still hanging in there

[ChevelleSSLS6]

S&B filters are best besides AEM. I ran KN on a v6Grand Am and a Saturn DOHC engine and both had fine dirt on the inside of the intake tract. :(

[athyonus]

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/Filter8.jpghttp://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAirFilter.htm

here you go for more flow

[goodburbon]

Well said, they are a performance air cleaner setup. They deliver what they promise, however you got to maintain them. Say yes to K&N if you are looking for performance and are not lazy.
:rattle:


:bs: Not well said.

No personal offense intended but all of you who claim that K&N is awesome, but you just have to keep it clean, remember that K&N even says their filters filter better once they are dirty. Keeping them cleaner means they let more dirt into your engine not less.

[MudDawg]

Go back two posts to see a GOOD air filter assembly.

[j99xj]

That cleaner assembly is a great idea with a conventional paper filter.

But I would think the gains over a modified stock box would be minimal.

The best intake mods are 99+ manifold and bored throttle body. The spacer seems to do something on the low end but not even close to the effect of a bored tb.

[MudDawg]

The canister filter has nearly double the filter area of a panel filter....but the real job this thing shines at is it is impervious to water and it does a killer job of supplying CLEAN air....Donaldson cartrige filters are used on nearly EVERY kind of industrial power plant......hell, i just bought a new GMC van...IT has a Donaldson cartrige filter.