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97+ foglight switch

The obvious place to look is the FSM.

If you have the switch, you could meter it, or dissasemble it and take a look; it just snaps together.

Ron
 
97+ Front Fog Lamp Switch Pin-out

#1 - Orange - Fused Panel Lamps Dimmer Switch Signal
#2 - Light Blue - Fog Lamp Switch Output
#3 - Violet - Fog Lamp Relay Output (or your 12V+ input if you're bypassing the factory fog lamp circuit)
#4 - Black - Ground

Hope that helps!
 
So if you wanted to use a factory switch on an XJ that didn't have the factory fog light wiring.

- Orange is pretty obvious
- Light Blue goes to your aftermarket relay?
- Violet would be a switched or constant 12V+ to power the circuit?
- Black is obvious

Lastly, how do you make the indicator light work?

My intention isn't to thread jack, but I've read 10+ threads on the factory fog switch. And seen a ton of diagrams. I'm still not 100% clear.
 
fogWiringDiagram.jpg
 
Does anyone know of a switch (cheaper than oem replacement) that will work / can be wired up in the place of the factory switch? Local auto parts store?
 
I'm fairly certain you wire it up like the picture. Without the factory fog wiring/relay, there's nothing to shut the aux lights off when the high beams come on. I don't see anything in the diagram that could do that either.
 
My #1 question is exactly what I have to do to get the indicator light to work?

#2 is what wire do I clip and rewire to make it so that the lights don't go on when you turn on your brights?

1# - The backlit icon on the switch gets power from the orange dimmer signal wire. The indicator light is on it's own internal circuit and gets it's power and ground from the wires already hooked up to the switch. It doesn't require you to wire up a second 12V+ and ground like many of the aftermarket switches do.

#2 - If you want to make it legal (fogs off when high beams come on) you would need to add another relay to your wiring layout. You would install the second relay so that it would make/break the connection between your 12V+ Run Source and the factory switch. You would then splice a signal wire into your highbeam wiring and use it to activate this second relay.

The only thing tricky about it is that you would need this second relay to be "normally closed" as opposed to "normally open" like the majority of common automotive relay circuits. In other words, you would want the relay to pass the 12V+ Run Source through to your factory switch all the time, up until you turned on your high beams, at which time the relay would open and break the connection.
 
1# - The backlit icon on the switch gets power from the orange dimmer signal wire. The indicator light is on it's own internal circuit and gets it's power and ground from the wires already hooked up to the switch. It doesn't require you to wire up a second 12V+ and ground like many of the aftermarket switches do.

#2 - If you want to make it legal (fogs off when high beams come on) you would need to add another relay to your wiring layout. You would install the second relay so that it would make/break the connection between your 12V+ Run Source and the factory switch. You would then splice a signal wire into your highbeam wiring and use it to activate this second relay.

The only thing tricky about it is that you would need this second relay to be "normally closed" as opposed to "normally open" like the majority of common automotive relay circuits. In other words, you would want the relay to pass the 12V+ Run Source through to your factory switch all the time, up until you turned on your high beams, at which time the relay would open and break the connection.

Thanks for the info. I actually don't want them to turn off when when I hit the high beams.
 
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