Replace the clockspring or entire column? I have both.

I got a used steering column from the junkyard for $20 even though i only wanted the clockspring.

I'm trying to decide if replacing the entire column is easier than just the clockspring? Wouldn't have to worry about pulling the wheel off.

Anyone have a good link of a walk-through for the column swap?

Also my 98 xj still has super loose steering which i'm trying to narrow down, most likely somewhere in the shaft or steering wheel area. Is there anything in the column that can wear or break that would cause loose steering making me want to just do a complete swap anyway? I've put 2 used steering boxes and 1 remanned one in and it still hasn't fixed the looseness. and the linkage underneath is good so it's between the box and wheel... Even tried a used shaft with no luck....but i guess it was a used shaft...

thanks for the help. O and by the way i'm new so go easy on me.

Figure out where the looseness is coming from... you should be able to hear/feel a clunk when you swing the wheel back and forth. Where it comes from determines where the issue is.

A friend turning the wheel back and forth while you look at the various joints may help.

kastein said:

Figure out where the looseness is coming from... you should be able to hear/feel a clunk when you swing the wheel back and forth. Where it comes from determines where the issue is.

A friend turning the wheel back and forth while you look at the various joints may help.

Click to expand...

I've had the jeep to 2 different shops in town. One shop i know the owner and he and his mechanic stared at the car for 30min while i moved the wheel back and forth...their only suggestion was the gear box which at the time was a used one, so i put in a remaned one and it felt exactly the same.

If it was as easy as you suggest i would have had it fixed by now. I've now gone from the easy find and moved into the i hate this jeep mode.

did i mention i've replaced with new parts:
U joings,
upper/lower ball joints
tie rod ends(inner and outer)
track bar
put in used shocks
.....

Did anybody look at the rag joint in the steering linkage?

Can't help you on the clockspring swap, I've never gone through an airbag. It's pretty simple on my 94 with a Saginaw column.

That's odd, I've never had an issue like that. I guess I'd probably replace the whole column if it has similar features (tilt wheel, same electronics, airbag/cruise etc) except I'd swap out the ignition lock core.

Through the years, I've found that re-maned boxes suck. We put a rebuild, from A1/Cardone, from Advance in my son's '95, horrible. Went to yard, got a low-mile used one, much better. And a lot cheaper. Make sure the engine is running-for power boost to the box-when you're checking box/front-end joints. When we went shopping for a box at the yard, obviously no running engines, we looked for the tightest one, with the least 'clanking'. With no boost, they'll all make a little noise, so pick the quietest one.

For removing air bag, disconnect batter unscrew from wheel, and pull the connectors off. THen use a steering wheel puller (kit or homemade) and after t hat its pretty simple.

kastein said:

That's odd, I've never had an issue like that. I guess I'd probably replace the whole column if it has similar features (tilt wheel, same electronics, airbag/cruise etc) except I'd swap out the ignition lock core.

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Yeah i was wondering about that. Figured the new key would only work for the ignition and my old key would have to be used for the door if need be.

But swapping that part out makes a lot of sense if it's easy enough.

I'll most likely attempt to do the entire column as that way if there was some slop in my column maybe this might help