PDA

View Full Version : Emergency please help!


SINCITY192
December 22nd, 2009, 11:23
I cant see at night my guages arent lighting up
where the rpm, the gas gauge, battery, etc., it has no lights inside,
I cant see inside my jeep
i checked the fuse i think its a 7.5 but it doesn't look damage at all
what could it be? I would of swap fuses anyway but the lowest i have is a 10.

Darky
December 22nd, 2009, 11:26
Are the bulbs any good?

SanDiegoOverland
December 22nd, 2009, 11:53
lol. emergency? ahaha.

dude, thats not an emergency.

An emergency is having your c-clip axle walk out of the housing with
your wife ready to deliver a baby in your back seat.

:)

just sayin'.

point a flashlight at the dash for the next few days? no problemo...:D

SINCITY192
December 22nd, 2009, 12:03
true but if that happened i doubt id be able to make it to the forum lol
i just said emergency cuz i gotta drive all night and i cant see with out the damn things lol ok so i pull the housing out to get to the bulbs right?

kastein
December 22nd, 2009, 12:04
Did that happen to you? :shocked:

agreed, not an emergency, sounds like an issue with one of the wires or the headlight switch, get a multimeter and figure it out. Even a Haynes manual has enough info to debug this one.

winterbeater
December 22nd, 2009, 12:11
Take your voltmeter and see if you have 12V on both sides of the fuse. Positive to the fuse and negative onto a ground. If good there, check it coming out of the reostat part of the headlight switch that controls the brightness of the dash lights. I assume you have turned the reostat part of the headlight switch to full bright for the dash lights. Check a dash bulb too, but I doubt they are ALL burned out.

89xj
December 22nd, 2009, 12:18
when i loose the dash lights on my 89 i also loose the rear tail lights.

my problem is with bad connections in my fuses block. fuses are good, but the power feed terminals for a few of the fuse slots are corroded badly from clutch fluid dripping on the fuse block. im in the process of rewiring the fuse flock.

SanDiegoOverland
December 22nd, 2009, 12:25
true but if that happened i doubt id be able to make it to the forum lol
i just said emergency cuz i gotta drive all night and i cant see with out the damn things lol ok so i pull the housing out to get to the bulbs right?

lol.

"you know you're a jeep owner when..."


Totally meant in fun, brother...hope you get it figured out.

(BTW, I second the Haynes suggestion. My copy has very useful wiring diagrams for all the different model types of cherokee/comanche. I'd get one and a multimeter and go to town.)

-Brian

SanDiegoOverland
December 22nd, 2009, 12:27
Did that happen to you? :shocked:

agreed, not an emergency, sounds like an issue with one of the wires or the headlight switch, get a multimeter and figure it out. Even a Haynes manual has enough info to debug this one.


Haha, no. I'm just being a dork.

I'm at work against my will.

I'd rather be home baking Christmas cookies. :D

Pelican
December 22nd, 2009, 12:35
Perhaps not a super emergency but it's no fun driving a long distance without dash lights.

Did any sort of "event" or work in the dash area lead up to all lights going out suddenly? You can pull the cluster fairly easily to get at the bulbs but it would be rare for the bulbs to all burn out at the same time.

If you have a 5-speed and the clutch master cylinder has ever leaked onto the fuse block, the fuses can look good and be defective -- I went through that for years. You can get 7.5a Buss brand fuses at Walmart or unknown brands at the auto supply.

You could use a 10a briefly to confirm that a fuse is not the problem -- nothing is going to melt.

Edit: I see 89xj has already mentioned the Dot 5 on the fuse block syndrome....

tugalo
December 22nd, 2009, 12:44
If you want to check the fuse, but do not have a meter, just stick the 10 amp in there for a quick test. If that gets you lights, go get a new 7.5 fuse. sounds to me like you are losing power from the headlight switch or you are missing a ground. All the instrument lights are on the same circuit....

Shorty
December 22nd, 2009, 13:03
Edit: I see 89xj has already mentioned the Dot 5 on the fuse block syndrome....

silicone fluid? I thought the problem was due to glycol based fluids eating the fuse block.

SINCITY192
December 22nd, 2009, 13:04
$#!^^7 $^!& i think you all know what that means i messed around tryna get to the bulbs and made another problem
I broke the fuel meter stick tryna find out how to get to the bulb
not knowing there were numerous bulbs my 1st thought was I had to take the gauges off one by one to get to the bulbs and as you can imagine i broke the stick tryna get it out $#!* know what I need knew gauges right?

How do i even get the thing out of there i took all the screws out and tried to pull it out and it wouldnt come out

on the light situation I dont think its the bulbs either cuz took many would have to blow at once and i didnt do any work on the dash to blow anything out

I guess its a grounding issue probably is all tied to gether with the high beams not working now the gauges lights, who knows whats next

SINCITY192
December 22nd, 2009, 13:06
Take your voltmeter and see if you have 12V on both sides of the fuse. Positive to the fuse and negative onto a ground. If good there, check it coming out of the reostat part of the headlight switch that controls the brightness of the dash lights. I assume you have turned the reostat part of the headlight switch to full bright for the dash lights. Check a dash bulb too, but I doubt they are ALL burned out.

i have know clue what reostat is or where that is need some help with that one.

kastein
December 22nd, 2009, 13:07
?!?!?!

Pull the gauge cluster and the bulbs just rotate out on the back. I don't even know what you were thinking there.

I would suggest, based on this and your previous threads, to take the jeep to a shop and have them fix it, and watch if they'll let you.

CherBear
December 22nd, 2009, 13:08
Haynes manual + multimeter = problem solved.

AIbandit
December 22nd, 2009, 13:44
After you guys figure this out can you please respond to my post
EMERGENCY OMFGIMGONNADIE : dome light out.

Thanks in advance

hubs97xj
December 22nd, 2009, 14:19
AI- put the battery back in it, and see if that cures the lighting and no start issues.

Sincity- did you ever replace(or even troubleshoot) the headlight switch when it was malfunctioning a few weeks ago? Guess what other lights it controls... Checked your battery lately, alternator output, cable connections, grounds, bulbs, fuses, etc etc? You seem to have a new electrical malfunction every time you touch it- some preventative maintenance is probably called for here...

NW-ZJ-SCOTT
December 22nd, 2009, 14:28
lol. emergency? ahaha.

dude, thats not an emergency.

An emergency is having your c-clip axle walk out of the housing with
your wife ready to deliver a baby in your back seat.

:)

just sayin'.

point a flashlight at the dash for the next few days? no problemo...:D
:roflmao:

FlexdXJ
December 22nd, 2009, 14:38
true but if that happened i doubt id be able to make it to the forum lol
i just said emergency cuz i gotta drive all night and i cant see with out the damn things lol ok so i pull the housing out to get to the bulbs right?

Two words......LED FLASHLIGHT! Seriously dude. its not hard to figure out!

bigalpha
December 22nd, 2009, 14:44
After you guys figure this out can you please respond to my post
EMERGENCY OMFGIMGONNADIE : dome light out.

Thanks in advance

:thumbup:

winterbeater
December 22nd, 2009, 15:02
i have know clue what reostat is or where that is need some help with that one.

Just starting at the most basic. The headlight switch pulls out one notch for parking (aka running) lights, two notches for headlights. It also turns on the interior (aka dome) lights when it is twisted or rotated all the way in one direction. While parking or headlights are on, it also makes the dash lights dimmer or brighter. If you have it turned (rotated) all the way the wrong way, the dash lights will not show at all. This is due to a "rheostat" built into the switch. This adds a variable resistance to the circuit to make the lights brighter or dimmer. :paperwork

Pelican
December 22nd, 2009, 17:16
Shorty, you are right of course -- how about Dot 3....

SinCity, when you replaced the headlight switch (assuming you did based on hubs97 post), did you replug the separate ground connection on the back of the switch? This provides a ground for the gauge cluster bulbs.

Good luck! If you didn't have an emergency before, I'm guessing that you do now.

souske
December 22nd, 2009, 17:29
After you guys figure this out can you please respond to my post
EMERGENCY OMFGIMGONNADIE : dome light out.

Thanks in advance


I havent had dome lights since the ragtop went in. Had no idea I have been living so dangerously.

In all honesty though this thread is on the same level as the lady that called 911 to find out what the hours for disneyland were. F'ing sad if you ask me.:explosion

stewie
December 22nd, 2009, 19:27
I would suggest, based on this and your previous threads, to take the jeep to a shop and have them fix it, and watch if they'll let you.

no, the shop uses a proprietary procedure to flush, fill and bleed the blinker fluid system and does not allow observers to protect their trade secrets.

Sincity- did you ever replace(or even troubleshoot) the headlight switch when it was malfunctioning a few weeks ago? Guess what other lights it controls... Checked your battery lately, alternator output, cable connections, grounds, bulbs, fuses, etc etc? You seem to have a new electrical malfunction every time you touch it- some preventative maintenance is probably called for here...

come on now, do you think he could manage all that without someone holding his dik for him? i think that his current capabilities are a little lower than preventative maintenance:dunce:

Two words......LED FLASHLIGHT! Seriously dude. its not hard to figure out!

!!!1sincity, i think that JU is more about your ability and comfort levels.

orange
December 22nd, 2009, 19:57
Replace with Toyota, Honda, or VW = problem solved!

bcmaxx
December 22nd, 2009, 21:56
lead a horse to water...........

tugalo
December 22nd, 2009, 23:45
remove all the screws around the outside of the instrument cluster, Leave the clear plastic lens in place, no need to remove it. pull the entire cluster forward and tilt it toward the center of the jeep. reach around the left end and remove the big connector that you will see there. It has catches on the top and bottom. Once that connector is off, reach in a little farther and release/remove the other one that looks just like the first one. then tilt the cluster back toward the drivers door and reach around the right end and release the speedometer cable by depressing the ears on the sides of the round connector. be careful with the cable, the end is prone to separate from it. the instrument cluster should then come out with a little wiggling.
While the cluster is out, look at the top of your headllight switch and see if you have any broken wires or the connector is loose. the instrument lights are fed from the headlight switch.

stewie
December 23rd, 2009, 08:16
Replace with Toyota, Honda, or VW = problem solved!

yep. a slammed rice burner tuner would suite you nicely

SINCITY192
December 25th, 2009, 10:54
Hey guys im not that bad i just havent had the time to really go in on my jeep cuz i still in the middle of my move and we both know a shop is really gonna over charge me on this so lets do this if your not gonna help dont answer
I need to know how i can fix my problem so far i need a new gauge now i thinking ebay for that
and i also need to fix the now gauge light situation so i gonna pull it out today and check for any messed up wiring
if i change yhe gauge will i no longer know how many miles is on my jeep?

SINCITY192
December 25th, 2009, 11:03
sorry for the last post i didnt see all this bu ti think i got this now anyone know a cheaper way to find a guage

hubs97xj
December 25th, 2009, 11:16
Junkyard. While you're at it, you might want to grab a headlight switch. What happened with your headlights, by the way? Are they still working/not working/dim? Have you checked your grounds, battery connections, had AutoZone or some such place check alternator output and the battery, etc?

pkbinder
December 25th, 2009, 11:43
On page 93 0f the winter edition of "4X4 Garage" they describe your problem and how to fix it. With the general wrenching skills that I possess, I would take their advice and call Bryden Motors in Beloit WI and ask them for advice (800-727-9336). The article mentions the specific part numbers you need and even the Technical Service Bulletin from 08-15-99 that describes the repair. Call me and I'll read you the whole article, it is very short. Paul 708-267-0592

WEJOXJ
December 25th, 2009, 12:41
Check your connection at the plug going into the cluster then then at the firewall with a DVOM. I would say check bulbs but if I remember right there's more than one lighting up the cluster... meaning a short/surge/connection/bad fuse. Surge would blow out the bulbs if they're on the same circuit and your fuse would be blown or faulty for some reason. It could be the oxidation issue I've read about maybe.... if this is the case just hit the top of the dash at the cluster pretty good and they'll work for a while (clean your contacts) but don't know this is the case with the bulbs not working. Just my .02

You want a Haynes/Chilton/TSM manual to do the testing accurately.

winterbeater
December 25th, 2009, 13:03
Did you ever try rotating the headlight switch to see if it's in the right position to make the dash lights come on? The rheostat thing?

FlexdXJ
December 25th, 2009, 17:46
yep. a slammed rice burner tuner would suite you nicely


Hey you leave the VW's out of this. He should get a Hyundai, put some huge rims and a body kit and go race somebody! :D

SINCITY192
December 31st, 2009, 15:27
Did you ever try rotating the headlight switch to see if it's in the right position to make the dash lights come on? The rheostat thing?

hey winterbeater i need you man i got some knew info that might help i dont have my fsm i working on getting it back though i have to geet my pc up and running.
but from what i can see in the haynes manual, the fuse with 5v is for the intrument cluster and in that socket for the fuse with 5v theres no power at all
now i change the headlight switch like everyone said and i made sure the wires were tightly on specially the back ground wire.
after changing the headlight switch and pulling it to turn on the headlights
i can see the highbeam indicator is on, in the center of the intrument cluster
So i have my headlights on highbeams this has to be dangerous!! lol
- problem with that is my highbeam switch doesnt seem to be engaging anything.
so its not turning them off!