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runin warm!

tj'sxj

NAXJA Forum User
just put new coolant and hoses to my rig, prior was runin at max temp of 210 deg average was 200-205, now tries to hit 230 and average is 205-215 wtf! pretty sure thermostat is good,even so why the raise in temp, all i really did was add a K&N cold air!! arghh, any ideas??? should i run straight coolant and if not why? is there a mineral build up over time? thanks TJ
 
Dont run straight coolant, it doesn't exchange heat as good as water. Run 50/50, thats what supposed be in it when it works fine so don't try and compensate for a other problem. As for it running hot do you have some way of checking the temp other then the gauge? When im at work scan tool data, or what the computer is getting from sensors, actually varies quiet a bit from what the dash indicates. Check your drive belt for tension, check and make sure you don't have an air pocket some where. Try taking a hose off thats in a high location like above the water pump in the front of the engine and top off the cooling system until coolant runs out and stick the hose on real quick, that helps bleed trapped air out. Also when ever you drain the cooling system when you start the car up and your adding coolant be sure to run the heater at the same time that way the flow control valve is open and you don't trap air in the heater core. Maybe check for a restricted radiator, also try another T-Stat, I've gotten bad ones right out of the package. BTW don't run it with out the T-Stat because you'll have to much water flow and it will eventually over heat if you run it long enough because the water moves to fast to exchange heat when it reachs the radiator...or the Jeep will run really cold in some cases, like going on the highway. The impeller could be corroded or defective some how on the water pump too so again check for coolant flow. Does it just over heat while sitting still or always runs hot moving or not? Check the fan clutch too, when those go out they slip a lot at idle and the Jeep will run hot until you begin to move. Let me know what helps!
 
i remove one off the thermostat and one off the resivor? i just replaced the fan clutch, sensor, i will try the air trick, it sounds like that will work with the way that the temp is bouncy! i ll check the thermo too and make sure its the right one (195)...
 
i remove one off the thermostat and one off the resivor? i just replaced the fan clutch, sensor, i will try the air trick, it sounds like that will work with the way that the temp is bouncy! i ll check the thermo too and make sure its the right one (195)...

Slow down and take a breath! :D

I posted a link above to a sticky. The sticky explains what information you should post so that we can help you. 1984-2001 production, all kinds of equipment. Follow the link above and post the info for us. :lecture:
 
it a 4.0 1990 automatic, i have been lil by lil bleeding air for 3 days and still once in a while it goes up to 230 on the temp! then once i get into it again it'll drop back to 200 degrees.
think its a sticky T-stat???
 
Ok. 1990 if still OEM is a "closed system" with no radiator cap on the radiator and a pressure bottle on the firewall instead of a coolant recovery tank.

The closed system is a Beehatch to get the air out of. Whenever you replace a thermostat drill two 1/8" holes in the t/stat flange, far enough in from the outer edge so the gasket and mounting surfaces won't cover them. Drill them at 180 degrees apart, and install the t/stat with one at 12 and one at 6 o'clock. Park the XJ with a nose down attitude. Remove the temperature gauge/idiot light sender from the rear of the head. Now, add coolant to the pressure bottle until you no longer get any air from the sender port, then reinstall the sender and top off the pressure bottle.

Note: do not fill the pressure bottle more than 1/3-1/2 way full--there needs to be room for the hot coolant to expand.

Also, highly recommend you purchase and install a Stant 10224 radiator cap. It will stay on, it is lower profile and won't make contact with the underside of the hood, and it has a higher pressure rating which will raise the coolant's boiling point. This is the pressure bottle cap from a late 80s-mid 90s Volvo 2.3 L and works GREAT.
 
i have never(bought in 1990) had to burp the system in my 89 by pulling the sender out or parking on a hill......

just pull the top rad hose of the thermo housing and pour the coolant down the end of top rad hose until it fills the radiator and no more can be added into the hose. reattach hose.

start engine and let it get to temp. shut down and slowely/carefully remove the resovoir cap, fill to the top of post with coolant, put cap back on, start engine.....repeat process until the level in the resovoir doesnt drop below the post.
 
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