I have a 90 xj with a 3 inch lift and my brakes suck. i dont have much peddle pressure and i dont know why. i have changed the fluid and i bleed them and i still have nothing. do you guys know what i can do to help this out. i dont have abs and i dont want it. can i upgrade the master cylinder and brake lines? if so what should i use and how long of lines? Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. q
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
brake question
- Thread starter poomero
- Start date
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
You won't need to upgrade the brake lines, they're all the same... unless you are running out of slack at full droop.
Pedal pressure - do a ZJ/WJ/whatever booster+master cylinder swap maybe? Search for "zj booster inurl:naxja.org" and/or "wj booster inurl:naxja.org" on google.
Pedal pressure - do a ZJ/WJ/whatever booster+master cylinder swap maybe? Search for "zj booster inurl:naxja.org" and/or "wj booster inurl:naxja.org" on google.
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
You can install a dual diaphragm booster from a 95+. It is a simple mod and makes a big difference. Also steel braided brake lines will improve pedal feel.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
Do you know where and how long of lines i should get?
- Location
- Southern Maryland
check the auto-adjusters on the rear brakes, they are very poorly designed and will prevent the rear brakes from engaging
also check the rear brake cylinders and front pistons for leaks, loss of hydraulic fluid from a very minor leak will make the pedal sink to the floor
otherwise probably time to replace the soft lines, since it will start to swell and bulge as the rubber gets soft, and that will rob some of the hydraulic action and give you a mushy pedal
also check the rear brake cylinders and front pistons for leaks, loss of hydraulic fluid from a very minor leak will make the pedal sink to the floor
otherwise probably time to replace the soft lines, since it will start to swell and bulge as the rubber gets soft, and that will rob some of the hydraulic action and give you a mushy pedal
Hawk pads up front will help with grab but not with pedal feel. Durango mc has a larger bore and will bolt up to the xj zj and wj booster. If you do the rear disk swap i suggest an adjustable prop valve. I did the zj rear disk swap and i'm going to need one. I wish i had just put one in when i was doing the booster and mc swap. Also, if you haven't already, i'd get some braided lines front and rear, ehall is right about the rubber lines getting old. Braided lines will not give at all which will give you back pedal feel.
jeeperjohn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Temecula, CA
I had mine custom made by RussPottenger in the socal forum. I don't remember the lengths I chose.
IMHO, if your running 31" tires or larger, unless you upgrade to a dual diaphram booster and have proporly adjusted rear drums; a brake pad upgrade, disc brakes conversion, or steel lines are just a bandaid.
the best brake upgrade is to increase the fluid pressure to the brakes.
the best brake upgrade is to increase the fluid pressure to the brakes.
If i change to the Durango Master Cylinder will i have to change the booster that i have in it now? Would you guys recommend that i do change it to and what year should i take it out of? Im new to this so bear with me i need a lot of details so i dont waste money on the wrong year stuff. Thanks for all the help so far.
do a search for the wj booster swap or dual diaphram booster swap.
i did the wj(grand cherokee 99-04) booster and master swap on my 89 for under a $100 with a junkyard booster/master($70) and bent and double flared 2, 12" sections of steel lines.
there are write ups on how to do this for the wj swap and for the 95+ swap.
