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brake line length please help
- Thread starter erniesXJ
- Start date
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Assuming the one from the rear wheels? No idea, I formed it in sections so that I could get it under the steering shaft easily and not go nuts trying to install it over the transfer case cross member. I suggest you do the same, you can then get premade sections (3/8 flare nuts SAE thread, 3/16 line) at AutoZone, use inverted flare mating fittings and always use flare wrenches. You'll need to do at most one double flare as the last line segment may not be long enough - I just got (iirc) a 20" segment for the crazy section up near the prop valve, an inverted flare joiner, and two long (51" I think?) sections plus another inverted flare joiner for the section down the firewall and along the frame rail.
While you are under there, check the sections on both sides of the rear axle and the sections to both front axles for rust, if they are bad, replace them at the same time. I used a 20" for the one on the left front, was an almost perfect length match, the one on the right front I used a 20" section and reflared the original line behind the evap canister then used another flare joiner as the rest of the line was extremely annoying to get to and was completely rust free.
NEVER use a compression fitting or a single flare on a brake line, by the way - or you may regret it.
While you are under there, check the sections on both sides of the rear axle and the sections to both front axles for rust, if they are bad, replace them at the same time. I used a 20" for the one on the left front, was an almost perfect length match, the one on the right front I used a 20" section and reflared the original line behind the evap canister then used another flare joiner as the rest of the line was extremely annoying to get to and was completely rust free.
NEVER use a compression fitting or a single flare on a brake line, by the way - or you may regret it.
- Location
- Rainy side of Washington
Which ones? I'd really really like to know because I called all over the place, I probably missed a few. I tried NAPA, AutoZone, and even the stealership as well as about half a dozen different websites.
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
If your problem is rusted lines, it might be a better idea anyway to use several sections with joints in them. As long as you use the proper double-flare unions, they're safe and legal, and then next time your lines rust out you'll only have to do partial replacements with standard lengths.
what to you mean by replacing the line from the master back? to me, that means the line from the master to the proportioning valve, which is only about 12" for each line.
where and what fitting? at the master, proportioning valve, rear axle splitter, hard to soft line connections, the bleeders?
where and what fitting? at the master, proportioning valve, rear axle splitter, hard to soft line connections, the bleeders?
Matthew Currie
NAXJA Member #760
- Location
- Vermont, land of big clay
I'd cut the line, double flare it and add a union and a stub a foot or so long. From then on, you'll never have to worry if the fittings get messed up. Just replace the stub if it happens again. Unless you're looking for concours points, there's little reason to replace the whole line.
