let me see you hi steer setup

I just picked up a set of 44 flat tops and am now looking for hi steer arms.

Let me see pics of your setup and brand you use.
Hydro assist or full hydro isn't out of the question.

I was thinking of putting the tierod behind the axle. Any thoughts on that?
Thanx,
Stukboy

When you search the various brands of high steer arms, they all have pics of the arms. Why do you need to see pics of ours?

Search, there are tons of threads of all the various high steer setups.



The tie rod would probably not clear the rear of the pumpkin. Why don't you look at it and stick something straight across so you know what you're up against?

Why wouldn't I. I feel people here spend a lot of time on there rigs. I can easily look on Ballistic and others at there arms(which i've done). But they can't tell me things I might need or have to do in order to
Make this easier for me. Besides, I know there are many brands put there. What makes one better than another. Maybe someone has done something trick that might work in my application.
Hope that's enough reasons.
Thanx,
Stukboy

Goatman said:

The tie rod would probably not clear the rear of the pumpkin. Why don't you look at it and stick something straight across so you know what you're up against?

Click to expand...

Friend of mine is doing it on a low pinion Waggy 44, so it is possible.


However, this is in a CJ buggy thing, and he is having issues getting a 3 link packaged in there as well.




Like Goatman said, search. But since Ive already responded, here is mine.

If you are using coils (i.e. stock suspension geometry) you CANNOT use Ballistic fab D44 arms.

You need arms that are about ~7"-7.5" from the centerline of the ball joint area to the mounting hole of the TRE. Parts Mike has arms like this, and is what I use on my D44 with flattops, as well as a few other people I've seen.

For example, Starboard M just posted while I was typing, he is one person who I remember from his build thread is also using parts mike arms.

Begster said:

Parts Mike has arms like this, and is what I use on my D44 with flattops, as well as a few other people I've seen.

Click to expand...

Yep, I'm using PartsMike arms(and knuckles) too. You'll want to center your coil buckets above the axle housing to get the proper tie rod clearance as well.

Stukboy said:

Why wouldn't I. I feel people here spend a lot of time on there rigs. I can easily look on Ballistic and others at there arms(which i've done). But they can't tell me things I might need or have to do in order to
Make this easier for me. Besides, I know there are many brands put there. What makes one better than another. Maybe someone has done something trick that might work in my application.
Hope that's enough reasons.
Thanx,
Stukboy

Click to expand...

You didn't ask for advice, or discussion, you asked to see pics.


What arm you use depends on if you're going to use TRE's or heim joints, if you're going to have crossover steering or inverted T, if you want the holes already drilled or if you want to drill your own, based on what length you want the arm to be based on our steering throw. All the arms out there work, the difference is what you want the arm to do for you in your situation.

I use a custom machined arm on one side and a Rockstomper double ended arm on the other side, and my assist ram is mounted in the back.

Starboard M said:

Friend of mine is doing it on a low pinion Waggy 44, so it is possible.


However, this is in a CJ buggy thing, and he is having issues getting a 3 link packaged in there as well.

Click to expand...

I'm sure it makes a difference trying to get it to fit on a high pinion housing. Lincoln spent a lot of time trying to get a rear tie rod to work on his Dad's TJ. They tried putting bends in the tie rod to clear the diff, but I don't remember if they got it to work or not.

A buddy of mine did the tierod behind the knuckle on a HP D60, not a D44, I know, I know.

Point is he had to run very little separation on the axle side joints to keep them under the tie rod. The alternative was to have LOTS of separation but limit up travel considerably.

He eventually got tired of replacing bushings and put the steering back in front.

Goatman, you are correct I didn't ask for a discussion about hi steer because this is a discussion forum.
I know someone with 9100 post, like you, has knowledge compared to my 120 posts.
(Not that post = knowledge.)
I would like to take some of that knowledge and others and apply it to my project.
I have been wheeling for about 14 years and am president of a Jeep club in my area.
I designed a 4 link rear suspension set up for my YJ and before trying to attack it I did about 3 months of research on various forums trying to pick the minds of those that had done similar builds. After completing it people asked me how I did this and that and eagarly told them where I got my ideas from.

Let me officially ask for a discussion on hi steer with pics to help me.

I appreciate any assistance anyone can give me.
PS: I don't want to piss anyone off so please keep it in perspective.
Stukboy

This is the only picture I can find atm.



I would not run it this way still. The chevy TRE inverted t I think its called that Starbard M has posted is what I was going to when I went to the D60's I run now.

There is a thread on pirate for steering setups. TOTM in the Cherokee forum