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how much do i need to bump stop my front?

MaxxXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bakersfield CA
ok so i have a 4" lift with 33 10.50's trimmed fenders i cut my pinch seam inside the fender well etc etc...well right now im running the stock bump stop and when flexing i rub like crazy inside my fender well's... how much would you bump stop? i read here http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/Adjusting_Bumpstops.htm
that every inch of lift i need an inch of bump stop... well with that being said i'd need to either run 4 hockey pucks per side and or a 2" bump stop extention and 2 hockey pucks. now then... i measured from the coil cup to the bottom of my bump stop and its between 6-7 inches, i measured from my tire to my fender well and i get approx 8 inches. do you think me adding 2 hockey pucks in there per side will be a waste of time or should i go for 3?

i love how much uptravel i have, and i cleared out all the sharp edges i could inside my front fender well so im not worried about cutting my tires... i just dont want to ef up my coil springs cause i compress my coils too much, ideas anyone? help would be great. thanks
 
Flex on a mound or something until your tires are 1/2"-1" from rubbing and then measure how much space is between the bottom spring plate and bumpstop. You'll know how much you need then.

But based on your measurements, I'd stick 3 in there cuz the rubber bumpstop compresses a bit when it's doin it's job.
 
Flex it up in the garage if you can, jack up one side and see is the best. I just did the 1" of bump stop for 1" of lift thing and it came out pretty damned close with the factory stops.
 
at about 5", i need lower RE pucks, AND extended uppers. when i was at 3", i ran same bumpage, at that time it was a little more conservative.
 
so back to the sports chalet for 1 more hockey puck then =) then i'll just have to figure out which way to install them
either 2 part epoxy or drill a hole thru them and weld a nut to the cup and bolt em down to the cup itself with a carriage washer on top for more surface coverage.
 
Gotta love cheap pucks!
 
1.49 baby! =D


Must have bought new, used were cheaper. JB weld,ed mine on years ago,had to use a cold chisel to remove them for some spring work.

I cut a few slots in the pucks for the JB Weld to grip .

Wayne
 
so back to the sports chalet for 1 more hockey puck then =) then i'll just have to figure out which way to install them
either 2 part epoxy or drill a hole thru them and weld a nut to the cup and bolt em down to the cup itself with a carriage washer on top for more surface coverage.

Gorilla glue. :patriot:

I bolted down the driver's side because it's easier to access the nut or bolt under the spring cup. The passenger side is a PITA so I just use gorilla glue on them. Scuff up the surface and put a load of it on each puck and stack em. Gotta hold em down for a couple minutes cuz they will want to slide off each other. Once it's dry they won't move. I had to use 3 flat head screwdrivers to pry off each puck cuz they were REALLY on there with that glue. :laugh:
 
LOL i have about 30 pucks in my shed... I just never really decided i wanted to use them for this i would rather get real bump stops... I have seen people that had the pucks have a lot of issues with them.
 
you do have real bump stops, the hockey pucks (or extensions) only raise the contact point. theres still a rubber bumper that contacts the puck...
 
ya but what im saying is why do a presidential solution when you could just get extended bump stops. ya its a little more expensive but to me its a wiser decision
 
oh, i agree, the RE stuff is good(and i run those), but i wouldnt be afraid to use hockey pucks, its only as ghetto as you make it! if it fits good, and is secured properly, hockey pucks would be fine.


shiiiit i just ran into problems while installing hydraulic bumpstops, a hockey puck wouldve worked better! no center dimple to trap the plastic bump pad.
 
ya but what im saying is why do a presidential solution when you could just get extended bump stops. ya its a little more expensive but to me its a wiser decision

Extended bumpstops tend to rub and clank on the spring during droop. That's why we raise the contact point instead of lowering the bumpstop tower.
 
Well in that case why not use a big metal pipe and cap it off so that its actually metal and no chance of it popping loose. Or if you want to use pucks find a metal tubing that will fit around the pucks and weld it in place and then put the pucks inside that and bolted in or whatever way you want to mount the pucks. That way they are more secured. I have a buddy with pucks and he is always having issues with them until he drilled through them and put a bolt all the way through them and through the spring plate on the axle
 
I have a buddy with pucks and he is always having issues with them until he drilled through them and put a bolt all the way through them and through the spring plate on the axle

the 'issue' was mounting, what did he use, bubble gum?
it has nothing to do with the pucks!

you COULD make a metal bump tower, some do. my RE's work fine though ?

the xj front coil suspension is all about compromise...
 
he tried JB weld, Gorilla glue and nothing would really work until we bolted them through. But even then they wobble around a bit. We are going to be putting a metal sleeve around the pucks though.
 
i have like 10 4.5" long x 3.5" schedule 160 pipe at home that im going to use for a base, im going to drill a hole for the bolt to slide thru, then weld the nut over the hole... then im going to recess the bolt inside the 3.5" pipe enough to where i can get the bolt to snug down fully, then im going to weld a plate on top, and again weld a nut to the plate and thread down a hockey puck for a total of 4" rise... should work out pretty well. no glue no jb weld, just pure beef =)
 
he tried JB weld, Gorilla glue and nothing would really work until we bolted them through. But even then they wobble around a bit. We are going to be putting a metal sleeve around the pucks though.

I wonder why gorilla glue works for me and not him? Mine will not come off unless I force em by stabbing em with flat heads.
 
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