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Ignition switch install...need some help

Lots of threads on this but first question is to just confirm whether you are referring to the key cylinder or electric switch down toward the base of the steering column since people tend use the term interchangeably.
 
the switch down at the bottom of the column. i managed to get the switch out and trying to put it back it...but im just curious to where the rod with the L bend on it goes.
 
I went through that. The switch sort of lies down on the column, not the way I envisioned it to start with. Look carefully at the switch and rotate it until you can see how the hole in the sliding wafer points down to receive the end of the rod. Get back if it just doesn't seem to work.
 
Make sure you get the hole in the new switch lined up with where the key cylinder is. I had to pull mine out and redo it cause it wouldn't turn far enough to start.. :confused1
 
You may have sorted this out by now but yes, you can lower the column by loosening the two bolts -- not sure exactly how much room you will gain, but an inch or two, maybe more if you loosen the bolts completely. I don't remember if you have to first remove the lower dash panel but I found that removing the lower panel gave me the room to work on the switch -- more so than lowering the column.

Note that the switch mounting holes are slightly elongated and, as spikeypuck points out, you may need to adjust the switch slightly up or down the column to get both the starter and the accessory positions to function.
 
ok so i got it all together but for some reason when i put my key cylinder back in the key only wants to turn towards me and not forward.... is something backwards?
 
You say that you got the key cylinder back in so i'm assuming that you replaced it as well. If you have the key cylinder lined up correctly the easiest way to line up the actuating rod that goes into the switch on the bottom of the column is this. Put the key in and turn the key towards you into the accessory position with it in the accessory position move the part that goes into the switch up the column as far as it will go which corresponds to the accessory position. Then install actuating rod and turn key through cycles to make sure it works.
 
ok i start over with it now....

what i don't understand though is it only has that spring stress turning back towards me and not turning away from me how it should be.
 
ok i have the rod loose but can someone explain to me how to put this all back together step by step because i cant seem to get the cylinder all the way back to pull the key out still.

i pushed the rod all the way up but i still cant turn it back all the way.
 
I have an 85 non tilt column, so i'm not sure how helpful i can be. But i know that if you are leaning in the drivers door. The metal bracket part went to the left and down. The plastic of course to the right.
My switch came with an instruction sheet. It is about the same as my chilton.

here is what it says

The key needs to be in the lock position


on non tilt coulmns:
Move ignition switch slider to the off unlocked position. (move the slider all the way down, then back 2 clicks) I used an allen wrench put in in the hole and slid it. it is easy to pass the second click so pay attention to that.
but that should center the hole .

Insert the rod into the hole on the ignition switch, and install the switch onto the column.

tilt columns
insert the ignitionkey in the lock cylinder and turn the cylinder to the off unlocked position.
move the ignition switch downward to eliminate any slack and tighten the attaching screws.


i hope this helps. In the past i have gone to the website or whoever made the part and have been able to find an instruction download.


I can not stress enough to make sure the hole in the switch is in the right place..
 
the only way the cylinder goes into place is if its in the cranking position...if it isn't then it doesn't line up properly...

I've got to be doing this wrong or something....


that's with the rod pushed all the way up to me if i was sitting in the seat.
 
I tracked down my old switch, instructions, and old Haynes (from back when Haynes were actually useful).

One thing you said suggested that you might have a tilt switch for a non-tilt column since the positions seem to be reversed.

Assuming that you have the correct switch, the instructions that came with my switch are the same that came with spikeypucks. The Haynes says to put the switch in the accessory position for both columns as suggested by dave92. I don't see that it really matters as long as the switch and key positions are the same.

For simplicity's sake let's use the accessory position. With the switch unmounted turn the key to the acc position. Move the switch sliding wafer to the acc position. Set the switch into position with the hole in the sliding wafer on the actuating rod. snug the two screws down tight enough so the switch cannot move. Insert plug and make sure all functions work. Put the clamp for the transmission interlock on the stud and tighten everything. (I forget how the dimmer switch fits into this -- hole on the end of the switch? -- but that's not your immediate problem.)

Make sure you have the correct switch and get back if it still doesn't work.
 
I guess the pertinent question (that we should have asked to start with) is what the original problem was and what all you have done up to this point -- particularly, have you changed out the key cylinder?
 
ok i replaced the ignition switch (the one that sits low in the column) but my key cylinder had bad tumblers so i decided id change that aswell.

pulled the two out but now it wont line up going back in which i cant understand why... maybe im just stupid and cant figure it out???

even the old cylinder wont line up going in....

the rod should be pushed up in the highest position when the cylinder gets pushed into place...but the cylinder wont line up unless it is turned away from me (in the starting position) either then that is wont line up in the accessory or off position.
 
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