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Best Year of Jeep Cherokee XJ

QuillsXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
California
I am looking to buy a Jeep Cherokee and I was wondering what you guys think is the best year of Cherokee to buy, what is the most desirable considering year and mechanical specs?
 
for ease of lifting, 1995/1996 before the drivetrain changed

for most refined, 1999, before the 0331 cylinder head was introduced to the line.

also, Search
 
early 1999 WITHOUT ABS - if you get ABS, you get a d35 rear axle for sure.

Good:
HP D30 in the front
older head casting that is more reliable
OBD II
does not have the new, expensive to replace pre-cat system
does not have the heat soak issue (due to the lack of the pre-cat system)
plastic gas tank will never rust out
metal rear hatch is good for grounding antennas to, weldable, etc

Bad:
new body style (this is entirely subjective however)
OBD II (listed in both categories because some people don't like it)
newer design on the rear driveshaft output of the transfer case introduced after 95 makes a SYE more likely to be required
new location of fuel pressure regulator and filter requires dropping the tank to replace

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. If you don't like the 97+ body style, either get a 95 (best HO-equipped pre-97 year) or get a 97+ and put a pre-97 front clip on it. Nothing can be done about the tailgate and the tail lights though.

This has been covered in depth in a few other threads already, search the forums and you'll find em, what I said is about all I can think of off the top of my head.

EDIT: billy also has a good point below, though the airbag in a 95/96 is (as far as I have seen) a self contained module in the steering wheel center which could be disabled and removed by a suitably experienced person. If you like OBD I or are going to lift it I would aim for 95 or before.
 
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DD: '99-01 You don't need HP and all that other crap if you're on the street.

Trail Rig: '91-'94, I'm with Billy on this one. No airbags, OBD-1, etc etc.
 
the air bags in the 95/96 are so easy to remove its silly to mark them off the list...if you want the liability...

My vote is the 95. Last year for the OBI, has the biggest master cylinder offered if you get it w/o abs. I run a 60 front and eaton rear with discs with the stock master cylinder. Plus it has an easier time with drive train vibes.

That said, I also have a 96. Its OBD II and other than that extra sniffer in the exhaust, its been good to me as well. It has abs that has been eliminated because of D44 rear swap and shafts replaced up front. It makes a good DD.

Just sold a 92 that was a bare bones model that drove real nice in stock form...but the rust was getting bad...

mac 'anything 91 and newer is probably a good choice...just watch for rust' gyvr
 
Another vote for 99, I enjoy OBD-II.
 
2000-01.
Mechanical issues are easy to fix. (Im swapping a hp d 30, and my engine's head is fine.)

In my opinion, the newer the better. You can ALWAYS fix drivetrain issues. But a worn, rusty unibody is harder to repair.

The 2000-01 all black interior is awesome.
Interiormods009.jpg
 
early 99 for the win, i may be a little biased though
 
Ask what is making it not run - is it turning over but not starting, etc etc etc. I would bet on being able to fix that for less than 500, but I could be wrong... if it turns over and just won't start, that is.
 
I shopped around alot till I found a nice low miles grocery getter an 89 limited 2 door. I drove from Northern MI. to Jersey to pick it up. I love it. Now its lifted, locked, stroked and takes me where i need to go. Find what turns you on and give it hell.
:party:
 
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