Quick and simple question..

97xjowner · Nov 25, 2009

tried searching and couldn't find anwser (maybe didn't look hard enough)

i need to replace rear pinion seal on my 97 XJ.rear axle is a 8.25 29 spline and need to know what size socket is needed to remove pinion nut..

i at first thought i had a D35 so i figured the 1 1/8th socket for the front would work but after dropping the shaft,i found out,nope wrong..

i was told that the D35 has a crush sleeve in it,does the 8.25 have one also ?

BTW-what's the torque #s too.

big Thanks in advance..

Mr. mud · Nov 25, 2009

Yes, the 8.25 does have a crush sleeve. If I remember correctly you need a 30 or 32mm THINWALL socket for the pinion nut. I do not however recall the torque numbers, sorry man.

RCP Phx · Nov 25, 2009

There is no torque value for a crush sleeve,you just tighten it until you establish the correct pinion bearing pre-load.

nochance9 · Nov 25, 2009

RCP Phx said:
There is no torque value for a crush sleeve,you just tighten it until you establish the correct pinion bearing pre-load.

Which is all kinds of fun!.... Not really, good luck though.

97xjowner · Nov 25, 2009

Oh joy..

thanks for the replies..
sucks that i gotta do the work outdoors and on dirt driveway..

joe_peters · Nov 25, 2009

Anemal_XJ said:
Oh joy..

thanks for the replies..
sucks that i gotta do the work outdoors and on dirt driveway..

Hey, it could be worse! Like mud, rain, snow, thunderstorm, tornado, hail. See? It really could be worse! :doh:

Good luck, and I hope it goes well! :cheers:

winterbeater · Nov 25, 2009

A previous hint on replacing this using a shortcut method (not replacing the crush sleeve), was to mark the nut before removal and count turns of nut coming off. Replace nut to same position by realigning your marks.

I don't know how well this works, and it is a far cry from "proper" but from a shade tree (or driveway) mechanic standpoint, it makes sense to me.

joe_peters · Nov 26, 2009

winterbeater said:
A previous hint on replacing this using a shortcut method (not replacing the crush sleeve), was to mark the nut before removal and count turns of nut coming off. Replace nut to same position by realigning your marks.

I don't know how well this works, and it is a far cry from "proper" but from a shade tree (or driveway) mechanic standpoint, it makes sense to me.

Well worth a try. :worship:

tigerchief · Nov 26, 2009

RCP Phx said:
There is no torque value for a crush sleeve,you just tighten it until you establish the correct pinion bearing pre-load.

This is true, but the pinion nut requires a minimum of 210 ft-lbs (as per the FSM).

Matthew Currie · Nov 26, 2009

I know it's cheating but I"ve done this a couple of times by simply assuming that after 200-odd thousand miles the rear end will not have its original preload, so the correct preload will be achieved by adding a tiny bit of crush. So I just felt what the bearing drag was before the job and then when I put the yoke back on, tightened it down good and tight, feeling for any additional drag. The first time I did this, I also marked the yoke and counted the turns, and just kept going a little further. The second time I was replacing the yoke itself, so didn't bother to count. I just tightened it down. No problems with either one.

97xjowner · Nov 29, 2009

Thanks,gonna try that idea.i had to wait till i could borrow a friends compressor and impact gun..dang pinion nuts are really on there..

four_shot · Nov 29, 2009

x3 on marking the nut. have replaced several pinion seals like that and haven't had any come back.

Quick and simple question..

97xjowner

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Mr. mud

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RCP Phx

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nochance9

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97xjowner

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joe_peters

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winterbeater

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joe_peters

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tigerchief

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Matthew Currie

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97xjowner

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four_shot

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