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Putting on a lift by myself

Cottontail

Cottontail

Three-De Off-Road
NAXJA Member
Location
Nashville, TN
So I have the Rubicon Express 3.5" for my 2001 XJ. It has the full leaf packs for the rear.

This is what I am thinking about doing for the install...

Lift the Jeep and put jack-stands under the frame on rear corners when I work on the rear, and the front corners when I work on the front.

Then use the hydralic jack and a second set of stands as necessary to lift, support, and lower the side of the axle that I am working on at any given time.

I would suspect that just supporting the frame with jack stands will give me enough stability and keep the body high enough to raise and lower the axles as I get the OEM packs off and the RE packs on.

Anyone with suggestions. I'll probably start tearing down tomorrow.
 
Do it.
Heck, I four linked the back of my junk by myself with 5 jack stands and a floor jack.
 
What you describe is exactly how I did it and it worked out fine. I was just careful to think through each move carefully so I didn't get smashed...
 
Yeah that's how I did it, I worked one side at a time, rear first then front. I also bought the exact same kit. Just take your time, hopefully the bolts come out good for you. Raise the vehicle a few inches higher than it needs to be, to compensate for the amount of lift going on that will lower the axle down more.
 
you should be fine. sounds like you have it all worked out, now get it worked on. i did my RE 4.5" by myself as well
 
i did the major part of putting on 6.5" LA on my XJ

i would not worry about how high the axle will need to be to be able to put on the tires back on, all you need to worry about is the axle's brakes dont touch the ground when its droooped for the suspension upgrades

for the rear, i put the jack right front of the front leaf hanger bracket, for the front, like mentioned, put them in behind of the lower control arm. do the front or rear at a time, not both, much easier and safer to do that way
 
I had a little trouble getting the shackle off my original leafs, but once I took the leaf spring off and locked it down in a vice I was able to break it loose. Have fun I know I did
 
You can do it but it is always nice to have two people. My front went together great, like 45mins. The rear on the other hand. OH BOY. That took about 8 hours. But I live up in michigan and there is lots of salt which leads to rust.
 
start spraying pb blaster or something similar on it now and up until you get ready to take it apart. take your time and if you get frustrated take a break and then come back to it. i think all the stupid stuff ive done is when im frustrated. good luck!
 
I totally agrees ^^^^

If you get frustrated, walk away. It help LOT, because when you get a break so you can think much straighter and actually work more effectively and faster than being frustrated in same amount of time (including the "break")
 
ehall said:
You'll be fine, I did mine in the backyard with two jack stands, the stock bottle jack and a small floor jack
Click to expand...
x2.
I put mine on in the middle of winter, in a snow storm on a weekend. The rear isn't bad if the bolts come out easily. I had no problems with the front. Floor jack really helps.
 
Did you buy a SYE kit?
 
i just finished mine up last night. you'll be fine, just make sure you undo your lower shock mounts on front and rear, and your swaybar end links up front. that should give you more than enough clearance to do everything. good luck, and give us some pics!
 
[FONT=&quot]Sometimes, it’s easier to unbolt the track bar to allow for enough droop to get the taller coil springs in.
After lifting, the toe-in will be off and will need adjustment. Check it again after a few hundred miles of driving, after the springs have taken a set.
http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoAlignment.htm

To help prevent vibrations in the rear, check the u-joint angles and adjust with shims if necessary.
Many later models XJs need an SYE and CV drive shaft to control the vibes when raised 3" or more. A transfer case drop can help too but it does reduce ground clearance[/FONT]
 
Watch out getting the rear shocks out. Tend to break off those bolts which leads to some sort of repair. I chose to use a nut and bolt combo on mine. Other's have done it different ways. PB blast every nut and bolt for a few days prior to starting as previously said and take your time. Should take 2 days at a slow pace.
 
Get a Mapp+Oxy torch if you don't have one already. Probably about $50 for the setup at Home Depot/Lowe's or wherever.

You'll save yourself a lot of headaches.

Drill a hole in the pocket where the weldnut is on the front leaf spring mount. Stick the torch in there and cook the weldnut cherry red and then back it out.

The only time I've ever broken a bolt doing a lift was when I was too lazy to go get the torch, and I've done a few all up in here in the salt belt.

PB Blaster/Zep etc. will only get you so far.
 
For sure disconnect the trac bar to get max droop on the axle. You shouldnt need spring compressors then. For the rear relieve the tension from the spring so you can easily take the leaf bolts out. For me at least. Dont forget the extinguisher if you're going to use some heat. Good luck n have fun!
 
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