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Bumpstop idea question

G

gorkoxj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Saskatchewan, Canada
Hey guys, I'm going to add a couple hockey puck bumpstops to the front and as I was looking through the threads on it, I noticed a few guys said they were pretty solid when you hit them. Me old...no like hard bumps hahaha

I saw some posts about foam ones you can buy, but I'm a cheap bastard so I was thunkin'....couldn't I use a foam hockey puck in there instead? Right now I don't need many being I'm only doing a BB and want to make sure the tires don't eat anything so...I'm thinking one regular puck on the bottom, then a foamy and maybe a slice of nylon cutting board on the top so the foamy doesn't get torn up. For now I'm just going to glue them in place and I'll bolt them later when I go taller. What do you think?
 
are you talking about the foam ones that are the same size as a regular one but really soft? (they use them at some hockey games for a prize winning contest between the periods) I think it will work for a little bit but i think just gluing them is not a good idea. They will not stay in too long. i was gonna ask you how much you picked up the pucks for because all of my buddies keep trying to snag all my old game pucks, from when i used to play, out of my chest that i have lol. they are all too cheap to go out and but them.
 
yeah that would be the ones. I had 30 pucks left over from years ago that I was going to use on my 77 Blazer for a body lift. Ended up going with a suspension lift on that instead and just held on to the pucks for almost 25 years.
(Yup...I'm a packrat! Always an adventure when I go through all the crap in my garage. I have Imiteneeditsumday-itis hahaha)
I kept myself 16 for use on my XJ and sold the rest for $10 just a few weeks ago. I'll just glue them for now. From what I read, most guys seem to have pretty good results with it. Not sure about the foam ones sticking as good, but only one way to find out I guess and they only have to last around 6-8 months. I plan on going to 4 inch lift next summer and then I'll go through the trouble of bolting them on when I change coils.
 
you can use a puck. i did when i was stock and its no different when you hit the bompstops since the bumpstop tower in the coil has the foam insert in it already. just use some pucks and forget about it
 
I don't see how you could use a bolt. The bump stop at the top will hit the bolt, and when the foam compresses the bolt will get pushed down through the hole.

What is the foam like? Is it pretty dense? I'm picturing something like neoprene mouse pads.
 
If you have a soft rubber bumpstop on your upper then it won't bottom out hard on the hockey pucks anyway. I have an extended upper bumpstop that is pretty soft, then I used three pucks on the bottom. I used all thread welded into place on my coil spring pad, drilled the pucks, and slid them down over it. Countersunk the nut and washer on top down into the top puck, then used a hacksaw to remove the extra allthread on top. Works great for me.
 
OP, how often do you really slam suspension limiting components together anyway?

Isn't the point of bumpstops to limit travel rather than accomodate a soft ride?
 
That and currently the bump stop is hitting a metal plate. A hockey puck would actually be softer than that...
 
3 things

1st counter sink the bolt on the bump stop...

2nd on the pass side it is a bit hard to get to. Get a fully threaded bolt... I used just grade 2 because when I want them off breaking off as it will be easier than running a bolt down the threads after 30 days of Michigan winter salt....

3rd when you have the passenger side threaded up then you cut the bolt off flush with the bottom of the spring pocket and forget about it.
 
Go to Harbor Freight and buy a cheap rubber mallet- slice into 4 pieces. Now you have left and right rubber bumpstops.
 
Rod Knee said:
OP, how often do you really slam suspension limiting components together anyway?

Isn't the point of bumpstops to limit travel rather than accomodate a soft ride?
Click to expand...

Rare occasion, but I like to think ahead and plan for everything. I just figure having a foam puck in there would lessen the blow when and if I do hit them. By cushioning the impact, not only would it be easier on my old bones:), but would also decrease the stress on the front end components, which is a good thing....right? When I searched puck bumpstops on these forums, a few guys mentioned how hard the impact was, hence the idea. Limiting the travel is exactly why I'm doing it. I don't want my tires destroying the fenders before I get a chance to trim and add more lift.

The foam pucks are high density foam and as I recall from my younger days of hockey in an unheated rink with wooden boards (yup...I'm old hahaha), they stand up well to being blasted against the boards for years, so I'm not too worried about durability. By putting a piece of nylon cutting board on top of the foam puck, it should stop it from getting torn up over time. When I'm ready to bolt them on, I'll counter sink the nylon and use a carriage bolt(rounded) on top to hold it all in place.
 
ehall said:
countersink the bolt head, or use a button head, or both
Click to expand...

X2
Years ago, I glued some pucks in. On the next desert trip, one broke loose and it sounded like the whole front end was breaking up, what a racket!
Went home, drilled and counter-sunk the pucks, tapped the spring seat and installed 5/16" flat-head bolts. End of problem
 
snail said:
x3. i gorilla glued mine and they stayed for a few months of wheeling but broke loose now. not sure if anyone mentioned this, but theres always the option of the extended bumpstop on the top of the spring. might give you a softer impact
Click to expand...


I have both..... Extended uppers, and 3 hockey pucks on each side to keep my 36's out of sheet metal.
 
I gorilla glued my passenger pucks on a year ago and beat on em since. They did not come loose. I had to remove my spacers last week and that meant removing the pucks. OMFG that was the hardest thing to do. The glue basically welded them together and I could not get em off. I had to use 4 flat head screwdrivers and punch em between the pucks to pry em apart. If you use enough gorilla glue, they won't go anywhere. :rof:

I bolted down the driver's side though. It was easier to access the nut underneath. I used a 9/16" drill bit and drilled about 1/4" into the puck, over the bolt hole so the head of the bolt was flush with the top of the puck. But then I realized I could've just tightened the bolt until it pulled it down flush with the top surface of the puck. duh me....
 
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