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wilsel
October 26th, 2006, 17:20
I tried to install a remote start w/ alarm today, and I cannot get it to start. It will turn on the dash, fuel pump, etc (just like when the ignition switch is in the on position), then it will turn the starter, then go off. Then it will try to start 2 more times before giving up. Everything appears to be wired right, and I've installed one before in another car (took me 20 mins no problem). Seems like its not sending power to the coil or something while turning over. If I put the key in and turn it to the on position and press the remote start it will start, but then it will try to start it again in 10 secs, grinding the starter.

Has anyone ran into this problem before? Is there something tricky with the XJ ignition? Mine is a 99, no immobilizer.

Slo-Sho
October 26th, 2006, 19:29
Sounds like you forgot to hook up the ignition sense wire, if there is one. This tells the 'brain' that the car has started. What brand of unit is it?

wilsel
October 27th, 2006, 04:43
Sherwood

scoobyxj
October 27th, 2006, 05:20
There should be a total of 10 wires on the big connector. Four of which you need to be conserned with. My info is from a 2000 FSM, and I would only assume you connector pin outs, and wire colors are the same.

Pin# 10 Start YL 14awg
Pin# 04 Run BK/OR 12awg
Pin# 09 Start-Run DB 12awg
Pin# 08 ACC BK/WT 12awg

You're going to need to use your DVM (digital volt meter) to check to see if the Start-Run wire stays hot anytime the ignition is on, or just in the start position.
My guess is the Start-Run is hot, and the Run is dead when the key is in the starting position. The Start-Run will go dead, and the Run will be hot when the key is in the Run position. The ACC wire would only be hot when the key is in Run, or turned back to ACC.

wilsel
October 27th, 2006, 06:25
Thats what I don't get. I did use the voltmeter to find those.
Red is always hot,
Yellow goes to the starter (hot when in start position)
And DK Blue is the run wire (using the key it doesn't loose power between on-start-back to on).

It's like the control box doesn't send power back to this wire after turning the starter. It does send power to the run before sending power to the starter. I can hear the fuel pump come on, and see all the gauges come on just before it turns the starter. Unless there is something on the car that would prevent it from starting without a key in the ingition.

wilsel
October 30th, 2006, 08:26
Got it fixed, it didn't like the tach wire at the ECU. Once I hooked it up to the gray wire on the coil it works

djblade311
October 30th, 2006, 08:53
ok peepz. First of all, we need to know what year your vehicle is.

If its a 97+ If your keys have the chips built in and the vehicle keeps shutting down after a 1 or 2 during remote start, this means that it is not detecting the key's chip. Did you install the ignition transmitter that you install near the ignition ring?

HERE IS A PRODUCT LINK FOR IT IF YOU DONT HAVE ONE (http://www.directedstore.com/cgi-bin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key=555CW&reference=/cgi-bin/commerce.exe%3Fsearch%3Daction%26keywords%3DCHrysl er%26searchstart%3D0%26template%3DPDGCommTemplates \FullNav\SearchResult.asp)

EDIT: NEVERMIND. You fixed it. There is more than one gray wire at the ECU. :) I luckily happened to find the right one the first time