Broken bolts and stripped nuts(leaf spring install)

I searched but I wasnt able to find much on this issue. I have an 88 Xj Im putting a 3" RC lift on. The front went pretty smooth but the rear has been a nightmare. Anyway, after getting under the jeep I found that both shackles were rusted through, so the springs were sitting against the bottom of the shackles just because of the tension of the spring. The real issue I am faced with is the nuts in the frame rail on the front side of the leaf springs. Both of them are stripped and cross threaded. I have the tools to cut the nut out of the frame and weld on a new nut but I didnt want to jump the gun and do that right away. I figured other people had had this issue. What do I do in this situation?

I am pretty sure most people cut the bolt with a sawzall to get it out and work from there, but I have not dealt with this myself. There is plenty of information on here that I have seen, what did you try when searching?

Heres one with some good info http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=999193&highlight=leaf+spring+bolt

The way I got around the problem was to just drill straight through the frame and use some long bolts...

Four years later, absolutely no issues.

Front Spring bolts Right? I found the same problem with front leaf spring bolt. The problem is that bolt rests in a pocket along side of the frame. Here is how I cured the problem.

Just behind the rear seat bottom support that goes from the trans tunnel to the rocker. If you measure and look you should be able to guess where the pocket is. I used a 3/8" drill bit to find the exact location and then used a cut off wheel to make an opening about 1/2" wide and about 2" long above the pocket. You then can get a wrench 19MM(?) on the nut.

To cover the pocket I used a piece of sheet metal with some sealant under the cover and attached with self tapping screws. Now if you ever have to do this again you have an easy access panel for the nut.

I never liked drilling through the frame.

leaf eye bolts are a pain, yes.

I believe it's a 21mm wrench you will want - what was suggested to me is to use a cutoff wheel to open the pocket that the weldnut is in, heat it up cherry red with a mapp/oxy torch, then stick a wrench on it and crank away till it comes out. Then tack the nut back down, fold the flap of metal you cut and bent back into position, and weld it back where it was. Luckily, mine came out just fine with the persuasion of approximately 2 weeks worth of twice-daily pb-blaster application, an 18" breaker bar, and my foot. This also applies to the bolts holding the shackles into the frame, it's attached the same way.

If you are worried about using your rusty/torched/chewed up hardware, either get grade8 hardware somewhere or get the OEM stuff from one of the various sellers (I use stores.zmjeeps.com, there are a bunch of others though) - bolt part number is 3420 2118 and nut part number is 1150 2814. EDIT: if you want to buy grade8 locally, OEM bolts are 120mm long, M14x2.0 thread. Many people have found that 110mm long bolts are easier to install though.

Good luck!

One side of mine the weldnut had come loose and a previous dealer 'repair' had cut an access hole in the pocket so that a wrench could be put on the nut. Unfortunately the bolt was seized to the bushing sleeve so I ended up cutting the bolt on both sides of the bushing and replacing the hardware.

Other side the bolt was seized but the weldnut was still mounted. For that side I cut the spring wrap off the bushing, cut into the bushing, and chiseled and hammered my way to the inner sleeve with the intention os splitting it off the bolt (the inner sleeve has pretty big seam), however the bushing spun loose from the bolt about halfway there so I was able to just back out the bolt like normal.

90xj-65 said:

I never liked drilling through the frame.

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Haha, what? Too easy?

I guess I'd just rather use 1 tool than guess about punching holes in my floorpan, then cutting a piece of sheet metal, and using sealant and self-tapping screws for a cute access door.

To each their own, I suppose.

Just drilled out the weldnut and used a longer bolt with a nut on it?

theNAST1EST - On the passenger side drilling is all well and good, but I prefer not to be using a 14mm drillbit anywhere near a brake line, a fuel line, and a fuel/vapor return line.

Assuming the bolts aren't frozen cut the bolt on either side of the leaf get yourself some easeouts and call it a day

Those weld-nuts typically come loose from deflection along with some moisture, really a poor design if you study it, it's all just sheet metal. Theres no easy cure, just need to go after it!

kastein said:

theNAST1EST - On the passenger side drilling is all well and good, but I prefer not to be using a 14mm drillbit anywhere near a brake line, a fuel line, and a fuel/vapor return line.

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That's where a small piece of sheet metal works as a backstop, and a tape mark on the drill bit serves as a depth marker.

I used a sawzall to cut the bolt and plasma to cut out a whole and weld in a new nut like many on here have.

Alright guys. Well I have some options now. I appreciate your opinions. I will cut a hole in the pocket tomorrow and get that nut out and go from there. It sounds like there.

Kendrik's front bolts spun in the frame. I just cut a window in the frame and put a wrench on the nut.

goodburbon said:

Kendrik's front bolts spun in the frame. I just cut a window in the frame and put a wrench on the nut.

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Yeah sounds like a plan. I will most likely just cut a hole in the bottom of the pocket, rip that old nut out, and stick a new one in there.

The only thing that would concern me about that is the fact that you live in Indiana. If your local .gov uses salt to de-ice the road you'd be planting a time bomb. In the south this isn't a concern, but in the rust belt your axle may decide to fall off after a few years.