Lockers - because i trust you guys

[mojojojo]

o.k. guys (and gals) i am in the market for lockers front and rear. I have read just about every thread i can find, but i can't bring myself to fork out a butt load of cash on the premium stuff....so i want your advise on the next best thing.

hear is my situation: i plan on keeping the 30 n 35 front n rear, running 33"s. i think i want a selectable up front? currently have LS rear. lookin to spend approx 1000.00 total when its all said and done. this may or may not include the install. (i have connections there if need be). so lay it on me...what would you do?

[XJourney]

A little off topic. Are you regeared?

[mojojojo]

A little off topic. Are you regeared?

no, i seem to have had no issues what so ever where i felt i needed any extra torq. i had thought about it, but.....talk me into it....

[XJourney]

If you don't daily drive you will be fine without regearing. But that being said I love that I regeared, one of the best things I have done for my jeep.

I run a Detroit Trutrac in my d30 and a Powertrax No-slip. I really like this set-up so far. I would have loved selectables, but not in these axles. I have $600 into my locker and LSD. Both brand new

The reason for LSD for the front was not enough coin for a selectable, but still wanted to be able to use my fulltime 4 wheeldrive for crossing the passes when they are icy.

hope that helps

[mojojojo]

If you don't daily drive you will be fine without regearing. But that being said I love that I regeared, one of the best things I have done for my jeep.

I run a Detroit Trutrac in my d30 and a Powertrax No-slip. I really like this set-up so far. I would have loved selectables, but not in these axles. I have $600 into my locker and LSD. Both brand new

The reason for LSD for the front was not enough coin for a selectable, but still wanted to be able to use my fulltime 4 wheeldrive for crossing the passes when they are icy.

hope that helps

thats a start. Thanks, and FYI i don't use it for a daily driver. Also just to add to what i was thinking. i was/am considering an aussie front and a detroit rear?

[PoSxJ]

12gauge talked me into getting an Aussie for the front of mine when I regear. You may have seen this already but I'll put it up for you anyways

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99710

They also have a no questions asked warranty, so you can run what ever size tires, and if it breaks, they replace it for free.

Although since I have no experience with these it’s just hearsay.

[bass2323]

ARB or OX, do it right the first time, if you cant afford both, do one then the other when you have the money.

[CanMan]

Aussie is very easy to install.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99710 (http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=99710)

Pics compaired to the lock rite, the Aussie parts are beefier, and they have a no questions asked warranty, which sold me. I believe that the Lock Rite warranty stops at 32" tires. So who has more confidence in thier product?

They do make an Aussie for the rear too, for the D35.

My front was $250 and change shipped to my door. Can't beat the price IMO.


Damn, I type too slow. :D

[Sniggs]

ARB or OX, do it right the first time, if you cant afford both, do one then the other when you have the money.You get yours on the trail yet?

[stewie]

i put the aussie in before the FF. i was struggling with 32 and open/open. down in Moab, the only time i got stuck was when i diffplanted. i love the aussie. for what it cost me and the short time it took to install, i am more than pleased. it is a little noisy at times but you quickly get used to it.

hth
stewie

[Rev Den]

90 XJ? Disconnect front end? If so...run a std locker.

OR


Go ARB when you can.

HTH

Rev

[FiFo]

If you want to keep the price down go Aussie front and rear, there cheap, effective, and you can install them yourself.

For a little more you can do what I did and just go Detroit front and rear. Stronger then an Aussie, but more pricey and require you to completely redo the diff. Neither of these are that big a deal though if you regear at the same time.

Finally if I was going to do it again, for a none-daily driver like mine I would just spool the rear and put an OX locker in the front. spools are cheap and effective and having a selectable would be nice in the front every know and then. I would go OX over ARB because the OX includes a nice Diff cover and are, in my opinion, more reliable then the ARB.

[KarlVP]

Honestly?

Weld the D35 because it's gonna blow up anyway. I've got 5 Carriers you can have with all the spiders. FREE. It isn't worth throwing any money at.

Selectable up front is real nice. I'm not a big fan of ARB's myself. Rarely ever have I been wheeling with ARB people and they not have issues. ARB stands for All Ready Broken. I like the Eaton E locker. Auburn Ected is nice, plus if the auburn unit fails, it is still a limited slip.

If you don't have the money, a lock right is just fine, you can do it yourself, and it is very forgiving to axle shaft failure. Detroits are very strong units, but when you break axles 50% of the time, you break your Detroit too.

So, doing it my way, selectable will cost you 700. If you do it lockright in the front, 400. If you throw money at the D35, you are wasting your time. Please, learn from what others have already learned.

Friends don't let friends waste money on Dana 35 axles.

[little red cheroke]

Honestly?

Weld the D35 because it's gonna blow up anyway. I've got 5 Carriers you can have with all the spiders. FREE. It isn't worth throwing any money at.

Selectable up front is real nice. I'm not a big fan of ARB's myself. Rarely ever have I been wheeling with ARB people and they not have issues. ARB stands for All Ready Broken. I like the Eaton E locker. Auburn Ected is nice, plus if the auburn unit fails, it is still a limited slip.

If you don't have the money, a lock right is just fine, you can do it yourself, and it is very forgiving to axle shaft failure. Detroits are very strong units, but when you break axles 50% of the time, you break your Detroit too.

So, doing it my way, selectable will cost you 700. If you do it lockright in the front, 400. If you throw money at the D35, you are wasting your time. Please, learn from what others have already learned.

Friends don't let friends waste money on Dana 35 axles.

are you refering to a full detroit locker or just an ez locker. i just got the ez locker and it makes a lot of noise. and your not supposed to run over 32"s on them. i wish now i would have gotten an ausie just b/c of the no questions asked warrenty. should have done a little more research but i wanted to get it locked before a big trip. turns out i messed up the install and had to wait on new pins and didnt get to go wheelin ne ways. o well. hindsight is 20/20. live and learn.

[John90XJ]

My experience has been that if you are going to a full case locker that you'll kick yourself if you don't re-gear. If all of that stuff needs to be torn apart, why not change the gearing at the same time?

That being said, I would go with lunchbox lockers if you aren't going to re-gear. They're easy to install, fairly forgiving and easy to sell when you upgrade. A comment was made earlier that the Aussie locker is beefier than the Lock-Right, EZ Locker or others...I'm not sure how that could be since they need to be a specific size to fit into the carrier. I've run both the EZLocker and the Lock-Right and have not had a problem with either. Regardless, that fits your budget well and allows you some options that I offer below.

My flame suit is on and here's my theory on the D35. If they're are bolt in shafts and NOT c-clip, you're fine with 33's. I've run all kinds of terrain and trails and never (knock on a Wagoneer panel) broken a shaft. I believe the weak spot in the D35 is the c-clip end of the shaft and that's where all the broken ones I've seen have gone bad. YMMV. Most of my experience was with a Lock-Right out back. Never had a problem.

I'm presently running an ARB AirLocker in the D35 as a test for ARB USA and the nice thing is that I leave it in the open position most of the time. Since it's not a differentiating locker, but instead a full spool when engaged, it's smarter to leave it open until you need it. Again, this is recognizing the limitations of a D35....same reason that people with any brains don't Lincoln Lock a D35, they're going to break under the stress.

Finally, if you don't go with a selectable up front, think seriously about a Tera Mfg. Tera-Low 2Low kit for your t-case. If you run the NP231 it's a simple install to give you 2 Low which is a great way to disengage the front end when off-road. In places like Moab when you're out on the slickrock it makes turning so much easier. You know you want low range but you can feel the front end binding in 4 Low. This solves the problem for about the 1/5 the cost of a selectable locker. With this I end up with 4 Low locked front, open rear; 4 Low locked front, spool rear; 2 Low open rear; 2 Low spool rear; 4 High locked front, open rear; 4 High locked front, spool rear; 2 High open rear; 2 High spool rear.

[hards91xj]

I run a LokRite in my D 30 It has survived alot running 33`s .
I ran with a LS in my 35 ,running 33`s I broke 2- 35`s then changed to a D 44
I changed from 3:55 to 4:10 gears thats fine for 31 or 32 tires.I should have run 4:56 for my 33 `s
That`s it .

[adamusmc2002]

I upgraded to 30 spline shafts in my d35,(and soon will truss it) but I regeared to 4.56 and put a detroit back there, absolutely love it. Very reliable and suprisingly quite on the road. Haven't done a d30 locker yet, but have heard lots of good things about the aussie lunch box. I'm personally looking to do the Ected selectable, cuz I want to make my d30 housing last as long as possible,(I've read that a detroit puts lots of strain on the d30) and don't need an ARB compressor, and don't want to pay for the cable kit for the OX. Anyway, there's my 2 cents.

[cherokeekid]

Plan ahead, dump the money for a selectable up front and go cheap on the rear. Odds are good if you do this for an time you will probably replace the rear diff anyways.

The other option John mentioned go lunch box lockers and use the extra cash for a 2 low kit. I'm pretty easy on the pedal but with 35's and beadlocks (extra weight) I've never broken a shaft, I've had the caps on the u-joint break but held in b/c they were welded. I believe having the 2 low and selectable front (OX) are the main reason as the joints only get abused for short periods of time.

You may also want to keep your eyes peeled for people upgrading axles, you can typically grab d30's and their parts re-geared pretty cheap. I snatched up a 29spline 8.25 with 4.56 for $85

[IXNAYXJ]

Shortly after lifting my '94 XJ, I put Lock-rites in both my D30 and 8.25. After lots and lots of hard wheeling, they never gave me one ounce of trouble. I wouldn't hesitate doing it again if I wanted a cheap way to have four tire fire.

I've never run a D35, but it seems that spending a bunch of money on it is like putting lipstick on a pig. Save the money for a 44 (or 8.8) and never worry again.

Finally, if you don't go with a selectable up front, think seriously about a Tera Mfg. Tera-Low 2Low kit for your t-case. If you run the NP231 it's a simple install to give you 2 Low which is a great way to disengage the front end when off-road. In places like Moab when you're out on the slickrock it makes turning so much easier. You know you want low range but you can feel the front end binding in 4 Low. This solves the problem for about the 1/5 the cost of a selectable locker. With this I end up with 4 Low locked front, open rear; 4 Low locked front, spool rear; 2 Low open rear; 2 Low spool rear; 4 High locked front, open rear; 4 High locked front, spool rear; 2 High open rear; 2 High spool rear.Very good point that is often over looked. I have one sitting in a box I'm hoping to have installed by Evans this weekend.

Good luck with your decision!

-----Matt-----

[XJLaredo]

Shortly after lifting my '94 XJ, I put Lock-rites in both my D30 and 8.25. After lots and lots of hard wheeling, they never gave me one ounce of trouble.

-----Matt-----

Locker worked awsome, U-joint just couldn't keep up huh?:D

[John90XJ]

Good point on the differences in axle setup. One reason I've likely never broken a front shaft, aside from being old and slow and running a 2 Low, is that they are welded 5-760X joints in a non-disco setup. Running a locked D30 with big tires and 260s is a recipe for repair at an inopportune time. I watched a friend of ours do it 3-4 times while in Moab last year. You could almost predict when it was going to happen.

[IXNAYXJ]

Locker worked awsome, U-joint just couldn't keep up huh?:DBasically. Since welding the caps on, though, it's been golden.

With any sort of locked diff you're going to put more stress on the axles, so it's not a question of lock-rite vs. another type of locker. Even if it had been a selectable, it would have been engaged when I broke the shaft.

-----Matt-----

[KarlVP]

are you refering to a full detroit locker or just an ez locker. i just got the ez locker and it makes a lot of noise. and your not supposed to run over 32"s on them. i wish now i would have gotten an ausie just b/c of the no questions asked warrenty. should have done a little more research but i wanted to get it locked before a big trip. turns out i messed up the install and had to wait on new pins and didnt get to go wheelin ne ways. o well. hindsight is 20/20. live and learn.


I'm talking about full carrier detroits. If you can't afford that, or don't have the know how. Lunchbox lockers are great, and easy to install.

I know a guy running 39.5 IROK's on his D44 lock right. No problems at all.

[mojojojo]

WOW! thanks for all the responses guys. based on the past threads i've read, i realize that the 35 is junk. and knowing that i will eventually want to upgrade anyway...this is what i have decided on:
I will either go Aussie front and rear or Aussie front and stick with the LS rear. Hopefully this setup will last me a year or two untill i am ready. I'll put the left over $$ towards beafier axles, gears, and premium lockers for both ends when the time comes.

I guess my last question is if i go this route...how much benefit will i truelly get from the Aussie rear -vs- sticking with the LS?

[T&A-XJ]

If youre looking to spend $1k buy a 44 for the rear and 2 lockrights. Run that for a while and see what you break. Spending money on a D44 will be well worth it if you decide to go bigger you can be a little more confident.

[ECKSJAY]

If youre looking to spend $1k buy a 44 for the rear and 2 lockrights. Run that for a while and see what you break. Spending money on a D44 will be well worth it if you decide to go bigger you can be a little more confident.

IMHO the best option. ;)

[Avanteone]

IMHO the best option. ;)

X2. And it's rare that I agree /w Phil :D although, actually I'm agreeing /w Tim :) hahahaha

J

[ECKSJAY]

X2. And it's rare that I agree /w Phil :D although, actually I'm agreeing /w Tim :) hahahaha

J

Oh hell, now what?

I think four guys on horses just rode by the window. :D

[mojojojo]

so so do you guys think i will see any major benefit if i go with the aussie front and stick with my LS rear, while i am hunting for the 44 rear?

[Avanteone]

Do the aussie in front and dont spend a penny on the D35... save up for the D44. If you really wanna help it out a LITTLE, you can take apart the trash lock and slip another friction disk into the pack, that will tighten it up a bit. Or change the diff oil and do NOT add the frictiobn modifier for the limited slip.

J

[T&A-XJ]

so so do you guys think i will see any major benefit if i go with the aussie front and stick with my LS rear, while i am hunting for the 44 rear?

Yes.

[PoSxJ]

so so do you guys think i will see any major benefit if i go with the aussie front and stick with my LS rear, while i am hunting for the 44 rear?

Like you said in your PM if your going to upgrade then truelly go for the "gustO" and pick up a 9". Unless you find a stock d44 you going to have to modify it anyways. And I've seen 9" for sale for half of what XJ d44 go for. Just a thought.

Or If you had 2500 bucks you could by XJoes old axles.

[mojojojo]

i have a few connections in the automotive world, so i am thinking i can eventually stumble on a stock 44 for the rear. as for the front... from what i've read thats a whole lot-o-modificating. reminds me of things on my old scout...bad things, and many long nights laying on the cold concrete garage floor.

[PoSxJ]

i have a few connections in the automotive world

And your just telling us this now?

[mojojojo]

And your just telling us this now?

uhhh, oh, did i forget to mention that?

[PoSxJ]

uhhh, oh, did i forget to mention that?

Don't worry I'll bring my list to the next meeting. :D

[BPB]

how much for a 44$$$$

[PoSxJ]

how much for a 44$$$$

I've been seeing XJ44's on craigslist for $300-$400. From what I've seen that seems to be the average price. You may find someone on the board to give you a good deal on one.

[Avanteone]

how much for a 44$$$$

PM WSUXJER on here, I think he still has his XJ D44 for sale.

J

[John90XJ]

Or change the diff oil and do NOT add the friction modifier for the limited slip.

J

Ditto

[Sniggs]

PM WSUXJER on here, I think he still has his XJ D44 for sale.

JAlso check with Red91inWA - he's down your direction.

[bass2323]

You get yours on the trail yet?

Its gettin there, had a slow couple months at work but slowly its getting to my standards to be wheeled.

[TORX]

It looks to me like a lot of the NWC is running auto lockers in the front. For those people running them, how do they affect you on snow packed roads and cornering?

I remember reading a thread quite awhile ago that said, with a Aussie or similar design locker, when you go to turn on packed snow your rig still wants to go straight? Would you call this "myth" busted, plausible, or confirmed :D

Lockers for me are far into the future, but Ive always been curious about how the autos work in the winter.

TORX

[PoSxJ]

It looks to me like a lot of the NWC is running auto lockers in the front. For those people running them, how do they affect you on snow packed roads and cornering?

I remember reading a thread quite awhile ago that said, with a Aussie or similar design locker, when you go to turn on packed snow your rig still wants to go straight? Would you call this "myth" busted, plausible, or confirmed :D

Lockers for me are far into the future, but Ive always been curious about how the autos work in the winter.

TORX
I've noticed that it doesn't matter if your locked or not, your rig always wants to go straight. That's how this happens.


http://www.geocities.com/jackoffroading/TURN_0020.jpg

[mojojojo]

I've noticed that it doesn't matter if your locked or not, your rig always wants to go straight. That's how this happens.


http://www.geocities.com/jackoffroading/TURN_0020.jpg
is it just me or is that just a red X ?

[PoSxJ]

Is this better?

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/sert_cam/TURN_0020.jpg

[FiFo]

so so do you guys think i will see any major benefit if i go with the aussie front and stick with my LS rear, while i am hunting for the 44 rear?

If you can't do it all at once then that's what I would do. Actually I like KarlVP's idea, put an Aussie in the front and just weld the rear up. Then start looking for a D44. Once you find one for a good price (I payed $225 for mine) swap it out and either spool it or put in another aussie. Spending money on a D35 is just waising money that could be better put towards getting a D44.

[falcon556]

Spending money on a D35 is just waising money that could be better put towards getting a D44.

What about the Super 35?
The shafts have the spline count and diameter of the D44 and made of better steel than the D44.
I believe there is a kit that comes with a Detroit Locker.
The Detroit Locker is supposed to be a full locker that can be used for street driving? What happens when you make a turn?

[falcon556]

Spending money on a D35 is just waising money that could be better put towards getting a D44.
There are some Yukon shafts for the D35 on Ebay that are supposed to be 30% stronger than stock.
The biggest problem with the 35 is that the shafts break.

[FiFo]

There are some Yukon shafts for the D35 on Ebay that are supposed to be 30% stronger than stock.
The biggest problem with the 35 is that the shafts break.

Let me start by saying if you don't wheel it hard then a d35 will hold up fine to 33s. Though if you’re not going to wheel it hard there's no reason to lock it.

Having said that shafts are not the only problem with the D35, the stuff in the diff isn't to strong either. If you really wheel a D35 with anything bigger then 31” you will eventually grenade the axle, it probably won’t happen the first day you go out, but it will happen. Let me give an example, last July 4th a group of us went up to Rim Rock to do some wheeling over the 4 day weekend. One of the members of our merry little band had been wheeling an YJ with a D35 and ARB installed for a year or so with no problems. About an hour into the first day we hear a loud pop from her rear end and her wheels stop moving. Eventually we get her diff pulled apart and little pieces of her ARB and ring and pinion start falling out. KarlVP can give an account of exactly what went wrong since he spent a few weeks afterward helping her get it all put back together and installing a Ford 8.8 in place of the D35. But needless to say the cost of the ARB she destroyed would have easily covered the cost of the Ford 8.8 that she replaced the D35 with.

[CanMan]

The shafts have the spline count and diameter of the D44 and made of better steel than the D44.




The biggest problem with the 35 is that the shafts break.

Huh?

Got some facts to back up that the D35 shafts are made of better steel than the D44 shafts?

[goodburbon]

he's talking about the super 35 kit

[Avanteone]

he's talking about the super 35 kit

X2

In case it hasn't been made clear here yet, DO NOT WASTE ANY MONEY ON THE D35 :) hahahaha

The super 35 kit is an upgrade from stock, but still not as strong as say a stock 8.8... and I doubt it's MUCH stronger than stock D44 stuff. You had a good plan worked out in saving for the D44, don't confuse yourself now ;) hehehe

J

[John90XJ]

You had a good plan worked out in saving for the D44, don't confuse yourself now ;)J

John's right, you have a good plan with the locker in the front and leaving the LSD in the rear until a D44 is found.

But whatever you do, ignore those telling you to weld the D35 until you replace it. That's nonsense and the fastest way to get yourself into a situation where it breaks at the most inopportune time. Stick with the Trac-Lok and you'll likely never break anything.

[KarlVP]

Dana 35 R&P specs

Ring Gear Diameter 7.562"
8 3/8" X 24 RH Threaded Bolts
PINION Diameter 1.406", 26 Spline

Dana 44 R&P specs

Ring Gear Diameter 8.5"
10 3/8" X 24 RH Threaded Bolts
PINION Diameter 1.376", 26 Spline

Dana 60 R&P specs

Ring Gear Diameter 9.75"
12 1/2" X 18 RH Threaded Bolts
PINION Diameter 1.626", 29 Spline

Ford 8.8 R&P specs

Ring Gear DIAMETER 8.8"
10 7/16" X 20 RH THREADED BOLTS
PINION DIAMETER 1.626" 30 SPLINE
NO CASE BREAKS

Ford 9 R&P specs

RG DIAMETER 9"
10 7/16" X 20 RH THREADED BOLTS
PINION DIAMETER 1.313" 28 SPLINE
NO CASE BREAKS

You can do the math. Look at the specs for the 8.8 though. That coupled with 31 spline shafts and disk brakes, can't be beat for an easy swap. The only downside if c-clip shafts, but that really isn't a big deal.

Anywho. Please don't throw money at your D35. For the price of the superior shafts, you could get a D44 or 8.8 and Have it installed. Swapping out a rear end may seem like a big job, but it really isn't.

As for lockers, you have selectable, which in a rear end are worthless, IMHO. A detroit works well but it has it on road quirks. Just something that you have to get used to. It isn't bad, just different. Spool will destroy your tires on road.

As for that situation with Ann's d35 at Rimrock, she split her ARB case IN HALF before taking out a d35 shaft. And she wasn't even wheeling hard. What happened, is the pinion got into the case of the ARB, split that in half and in turn stripped most of the teeth off the ring gear when the force finally let go. It wasn't pretty at all.

Now she has a sweet 8.8 stuffed with an arb and 4.56 gears. I'll be the first to let you know when that breaks.

[falcon556]

I'll wait till I'm ready to go with a D44.
Thanks.

[mud1059]

I'm not sure if this was brought up yet or not but Petersons 4 wheel did a great write up on upgrading the 8.8 for jeeps. It included a kit from Superior that made it semi floating, 30 someodd splines and extended the axles to the D30 lengh. All done with regular hand tools. I think the kit was only $560.

I run a D44 and my biggest concern is replacement parts. I'm never going to find stock shafts or housings at a reasonable price because the 44 is obviously extremely desirable. Just pointing out a few things.

edit: There's more to the Superior kit, however I don't recall everything.

[PoSxJ]

I'm not sure if this was brought up yet or not but Petersons 4 wheel did a great write up on upgrading the 8.8 for jeeps. It included a kit from Superior that made it semi floating, 30 someodd splines and extended the axles to the D30 lengh. All done with regular hand tools. I think the kit was only $560.

I run a D44 and my biggest concern is replacement parts. I'm never going to find stock shafts or housings at a reasonable price because the 44 is obviously extremely desirable. Just pointing out a few things.

edit: There's more to the Superior kit, however I don't recall everything.

I've been told that if you plan on upgrading to the 8.8 you might as well go with a 9". Similar fabing but a stronger axle and more aftermarket products. Plus they're easier to find. Though I could be wrong. But there are is a lot more coming out for the 8.8.

[John90XJ]

I've been told that if you plan on upgrading to the 8.8 you might as well go with a 9". Similar fabing but a stronger axle and more aftermarket products. Plus they're easier to find. Though I could be wrong. But there are is a lot more coming out for the 8.8.

Given the choice, I think I'd stick with the cast iron diff chunk of the 8.8 and the relative ease of installing one since the width is about perfect as is.

[mojojojo]

hey guys. who is it that works at Northridge4X4 ????

[Avanteone]

hey guys. who is it that works at Northridge4X4 ????

Whatchya need?

[mojojojo]

O.K. so the aussie locker for a D30 is backordered through Northridge4x4 and direct from Aussie. Any other suggestions on vendors? i can't seem to find anyone else who carries them.

HELP!!

[CanMan]

O.K. so the aussie locker for a D30 is backordered through Northridge4x4 and direct from Aussie. Any other suggestions on vendors? i can't seem to find anyone else who carries them.

HELP!!

If you order them now, will they be here by the TSF run? We can put them in at browns camp too. :D

[mojojojo]

If you order them now, will they be here by the TSF run? We can put them in at browns camp too. :D

yeah, thats kinda what i'm thinkin. if i can't find one somewhere in the next day or so, i'll wait out the 2 week BO and cram it in last minute. not to sure i wanna do it on the trail though.

[PoSxJ]

yeah, thats kinda what i'm thinkin. if i can't find one somewhere in the next day or so, i'll wait out the 2 week BO and cram it in last minute. not to sure i wanna do it on the trail though.
Hey, I'm going to order mine soon too. If I don't have the shop do it when they do my gears, we should install them at the same time. Cause I don't know if I trust myself.

[KarlVP]

O.K. so the aussie locker for a D30 is backordered through Northridge4x4 and direct from Aussie. Any other suggestions on vendors? i can't seem to find anyone else who carries them.

HELP!!


Randys Ring and Pinion?

www.ring-pinion.com

[mojojojo]

Randys Ring and Pinion?

www.ring-pinion.com (http://www.ring-pinion.com)

Thanks, but been there done that. they don't carry them either. looks like i'll be waiting out the back order, unless.......anyone else has any suggestions????

[PoSxJ]

Thanks, but been there done that. they don't carry them either. looks like i'll be waiting out the back order, unless.......anyone else has any suggestions????
Hey Mojo, where did you end up ordering yours from? and how long did they say tell you get it?

[mojojojo]

havn't yet. i called Aussie today they said no guarante on anything. i have to call northridge tomorrow and dbl check, but i think they were 2 weeks.

[KarlVP]

Then get lock-rites.

[PoSxJ]

Then get lock-rites.
From what 12gauge told me I'll wait for an Aussie.

[mojojojo]

me too. i like the warranty better. sounds like the service is pretty good too.

[KarlVP]

From what 12gauge told me I'll wait for an Aussie.


Sounds good to me. Also sounds like thos Aussies are flying off the shelves.

[John90XJ]

Given the choice, I would take what's available now so I could go wheeling. I've put a 100k miles on a Lock-Right and an EZLocker, both purchased used, and never had a problem. And they were both around long before the Australian copy. My $0.02.

[IXNAYXJ]

Given the choice, I would take what's available now so I could go wheeling. I've put a 100k miles on a Lock-Right and an EZLocker, both purchased used, and never had a problem. And they were both around long before the Australian copy. My $0.02.Thank you! As cool as the Aussie may be, there's nothing wrong with a Lock-Rite. I wheeled the piss out of mine and it never gave me any problems. As John said, just my $.02.

-----Matt-----

[Avanteone]

Here's my take on this, take it for what it's worth.

Yes, I've heard the Aussie's work *slightly* better than a lockright or EZLocker as far as noise, disengagement, etc. My problem is availability and parts availability. I've never seen a lockright fail, other than breaking the pins. The pins are the weak point in all of the designs. Regardless of what Aussie's policy is, they're going to cry "ABUSE" when/if you brake a set of pins. Now my questions is... whether they're warrantying it or not, would you rather wait 2-4 weeks or ??? to get replacement pins for your AUssie, or go to any 4wd shop, Randy's, etc. that STOCKS the lockright pins for $15?

J

[ECKSJAY]

Here's my take on this, take it for what it's worth.

Yes, I've heard the Aussie's work *slightly* better than a lockright or EZLocker as far as noise, disengagement, etc. My problem is availability and parts availability. I've never seen a lockright fail, other than breaking the pins. The pins are the weak point in all of the designs. Regardless of what Aussie's policy is, they're going to cry "ABUSE" when/if you brake a set of pins. Now my questions is... whether they're warrantying it or not, would you rather wait 2-4 weeks or ??? to get replacement pins for your AUssie, or go to any 4wd shop, Randy's, etc. that STOCKS the lockright pins for $15?

J

Have to say I fully agree with you, John.

[cherokeekid]

are the pins for an aussie different? I've interchanged the others before

[Avanteone]

are the pins for an aussie different? I've interchanged the others before

I've interchanged lockright and ezlocker. It's MY understanding that the Aussie's are different.

J

[CanMan]

are the pins for an aussie different? I've interchanged the others before

This is what the pins look like.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/12GaugeXJ/Aussie%20locker%20install/100_2846.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/12GaugeXJ/Aussie%20locker%20install/100_2841.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n187/12GaugeXJ/Aussie%20locker%20install/100_2818.jpg


It shouldn't matter really what one you get. Its up to the person.

[cherokeekid]

all the lock rites/geniune etc I've dealt with came with extra pins, aussie as well?

[CanMan]

all the lock rites/geniune etc I've dealt with came with extra pins, aussie as well?

No.

[ECKSJAY]

all the lock rites/geniune etc I've dealt with came with extra pins, aussie as well?

Have had Lock Rights missing pins before, but never with any extra ones. Even the replacement kits I've ordered have always had 4 pins and 8 springs...

[mojojojo]

WOW! this has become quite the debate.




stop it! your confusing me....:rattle:





:D j/k :laugh3: as of a few minutes ago, i placed my order for the Aussie. will let you all know how it ends up. Thanks everyone for there imput.

carry on :conceited

[PolishX]

I Hope noone thinks my locker plan is stupid

D30 open regearing to 4.56
8.25 Detroit and regear .

[Sniggs]

I Hope noone thinks my locker plan is stupid

D30 open regearing to 4.56
8.25 Detroit and regear .Ultimately, it doesn't matter what we think. You are the one that will be driving it.

[KarlVP]

I Hope noone thinks my locker plan is stupid

D30 open regearing to 4.56
8.25 Detroit and regear .


Detroits rule.

Here are some reasons.


10. Occasional loud banging sound gives you an adrenaline rush that is better than coffee
9. Excellent opportunity to demonstrate your superior mechanical understanding to your
mechanic while explaining to him that, no . . . your rear end is not broken
8. Your significant other won't ask to borrow your Jeep, cuz they are afraid to drive it
after that parking lot incident
7. Lane changes no longer require all that annoying effort of actually having to turn
the steering wheel
6. Beating sports cars off the line on wet pavement
5. Having a 4X4 that actually turns more then two wheels
4. Single lane U-turns
3. Cool, brightly-colored "Warning: May Cause Injury or Death" stickers for your dash
2. No need to plow snow from your driveway . . . ever

And the Number One reason for having mechanical lockers in your Jeep:

1. Opens up a whole new and exciting hobby: Making fun of ARBs!!!

[ECKSJAY]

And the Number One reason for having mechanical lockers in your Jeep:

1. Opens up a whole new and exciting hobby: Making fun of people who don't know how to properly install ARBs!!!

Fixed for ya. :D

[KarlVP]

Fixed for ya. :D


I have never had an ARB that I installed fail..... yet.

[ECKSJAY]

I have never had an ARB that I installed fail..... yet.

99.9% of the problems with the things are installation related anyway. :D They get a bum rap by the uninformed. ;)

[FiFo]

99.9% of the problems with the things are installation related anyway. :D They get a bum rap by the uninformed. ;)

It would appear then that 99.9% of all ARB installations are preformed wrong then. ;)

Actually I rarely see problems with the ARB themselves. Usually the problem is in the solenoid, or the compressor, or the electrical system for the compressor, or the air line, or the...........

[KarlVP]

It would appear then that 99.9% of all ARB installations are preformed wrong then. ;)

Actually I rarely see problems with the ARB themselves. Usually the problem is in the solenoid, or the compressor, or the electrical system for the compressor, or the air line, or the...........


Yeah, or maintenance related.

This is why I don't have ARB's. I'm not a big fan of maintenance. usually, my diff maintenance includes: crack diff cover, wait for chocolate milkshake to drain, refill with lucas 80-90. Reinstall diff cover.

[Matt98XJ]

For what its worth, I work in the warranty department of Randy's Ring and Pinion and I've never seen Richmond deny a warranty on a Lock Rite.

[John90XJ]

For what its worth, I work in the warranty department of Randy's Ring and Pinion and I've never seen Richmond deny a warranty on a Lock Rite.

Because they rarely break is my assumption......true?

[Matt98XJ]

Because they rarely break is my assumption......true?

Yeah, I rarely see them come back, and when they do, Richmond warranties them. I see lots of Detroit EZ lockers come in though. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.

[John90XJ]

Yeah, I rarely see them come back, and when they do, Richmond warranties them. I see lots of Detroit EZ lockers come in though. I wouldn't recommend them to anyone.

Cool....that's the kind of real life experience that works.

[mud1059]

I could be wrong, let me know. Automatic lockers are not preferred in the front, ESPECIALLY with one as weak as the D30 due to binding issues when wheeling I.E. taking sharp turns up a hill rubbing on a stump or similar causing breakage of axles. With a selectable it could be turned off for tight binds then back on again once a better angle is reached.

[ECKSJAY]

I could be wrong, let me know. Automatic lockers are not preferred in the front, ESPECIALLY with one as weak as the D30 due to binding issues when wheeling I.E. taking sharp turns up a hill rubbing on a stump or similar causing breakage of axles. With a selectable it could be turned off for tight binds then back on again once a better angle is reached.

Going on 5 years with my Lock Right and I've not found that to be my case...in spite of what others have said about them. ;)

[Avanteone]

In some cases, yes it will bind up. Easy fix is a Tera 2low kit, about $160. I think it's a GREAT entry level combination and way cheaper for the lockright and 2low than an ARB, OX, etc. and the associated install costs.

John

I could be wrong, let me know. Automatic lockers are not preferred in the front, ESPECIALLY with one as weak as the D30 due to binding issues when wheeling I.E. taking sharp turns up a hill rubbing on a stump or similar causing breakage of axles. With a selectable it could be turned off for tight binds then back on again once a better angle is reached.

[IXNAYXJ]

In some cases, yes it will bind up. Easy fix is a Tera 2low kit, about $160. I think it's a GREAT entry level combination and way cheaper for the lockright and 2low than an ARB, OX, etc. and the associated install costs.

JohnI sure love mine! :D

-----Matt-----

[Power5]

I have been searching for a lunchbox for my 8.25 29 spline, but cant seem to find an Aussie for it. Do they not make one for the 8.25? If not, what is the recomended lunchbox locker for the 8.25?

[87manche]

Detroits rule.

Here are some reasons.



9. Excellent opportunity to demonstrate your superior mechanical understanding to your
mechanic while explaining to him that, no . . . your rear end is not broken

7. Lane changes no longer require all that annoying effort of actually having to turn
the steering wheel


I had a mechanic that swore I had a broken axle shaft in the rear and wouldn't let me take the truck back because it was unsafe. 20 minutes later of explaining what a detroit was and he still didn't believe me.
number 7 happened to me the other day, always exciting with a detroit and a 5spd.

[John90XJ]

I have been searching for a lunchbox for my 8.25 29 spline, but cant seem to find an Aussie for it. Do they not make one for the 8.25? If not, what is the recomended lunchbox locker for the 8.25?

I'm only aware of them being available for the 27 spline axle. You might need to consider a full replacement or some other option.

[Avanteone]

I'm only aware of them being available for the 27 spline axle. You might need to consider a full replacement or some other option.

I thought the 27sp you could get a lockright and the 29sp you could get a no-slip.

J

[ECKSJAY]

I thought the 27sp you could get a lockright and the 29sp you could get a no-slip.

J

27 you can get both, 29 you can only get the no-slip.

[John90XJ]

IMHO, that leaves the lunchbox locker realm when you're talking about $400-$450 to acquire one.

I look at lunchbox to mean the time to install AND the cost to acquire. You can almost double cost and get into the Detroit Locker range at that point.

[Avanteone]

Yes, the no-slip is more expensive, but it is still a "lunchbox" ie, insert-able locker. Obviously I'd rather have a detroit as well, but whomever is considering it also has to factor in having someone reset the backlash on a full carrier Detroit if they aren't capable of doing it themselves.

J

IMHO, that leaves the lunchbox locker realm when you're talking about $400-$450 to acquire one.

I look at lunchbox to mean the time to install AND the cost to acquire. You can almost double cost and get into the Detroit Locker range at that point.

[John90XJ]

I realize that John....I guess I just think of lunchbox lockers being in that $250 price range.

[Slacker87XJ]

Detroits rule.

Here are some reasons.


10. Occasional loud banging sound gives you an adrenaline rush that is better than coffee
9. Excellent opportunity to demonstrate your superior mechanical understanding to your
mechanic while explaining to him that, no . . . your rear end is not broken
8. Your significant other won't ask to borrow your Jeep, cuz they are afraid to drive it
after that parking lot incident
7. Lane changes no longer require all that annoying effort of actually having to turn
the steering wheel
6. Beating sports cars off the line on wet pavement
5. Having a 4X4 that actually turns more then two wheels
4. Single lane U-turns
3. Cool, brightly-colored "Warning: May Cause Injury or Death" stickers for your dash
2. No need to plow snow from your driveway . . . ever

And the Number One reason for having mechanical lockers in your Jeep:

1. Opens up a whole new and exciting hobby: Making fun of ARBs!!!

:roflmao: :roflmao:

Thats awesome!

I had a lockrite in the back, and now have a detroit. The lockrite made more cool clicky noises in corners, but the detroit goes bang louder when it unloads. Either way your non-jeep driving coworkers will wonder what you just broke everytime you park.

-i

[cmoore]

And the Number One reason for having mechanical lockers in your Jeep:

1. Opens up a whole new and exciting hobby: Making fun of ARBs!!!

Hahaha. Turn about is fair play and with a detroit you get to turn twice as much eh? 2 point, 3 point, 5 point.:spin1:

But seriously, I've had detroits, lockrites, powertrax no-slips, and arbs. I wont go back to autolockers ever. In the end, the only reason for me is because I didnt like crabwalking across snowy, scarey sidehills with my family on board. Sometimes being open is just better/safer.

[FiFo]

Hahaha. Turn about is fair play and with a detroit you get to turn twice as much eh? 2 point, 3 point, 5 point.:spin1:

But seriously, I've had detroits, lockrites, powertrax no-slips, and arbs. I wont go back to autolockers ever. In the end, the only reason for me is because I didnt like crabwalking across snowy, scarey sidehills with my family on board. Sometimes being open is just better/safer.

So far I've never had any real issues with my Detroit, but if for some reason I decided to go with a selectable I would run an OX instead of an ARB. A cable just strikes me as being more reliable then a complicated air system, plus the beefy diff cover would help keep the diff from flexing, which would have saved me a ring and pinion.