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How to tell if Renix is in "limp" mode?

mattbred

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Canada
I was just wondering how to tell if a Renix jeep is in limp mode?

I've been trying to track down a poor performance/mpg problem and can't figure it out. My idle is nowhere near solid, although it's always at a consistent 600-700 RPM's. What I mean by "not solid" is that the needle fluctates quickly by small increments, and you can hear the engine running rough. It idles this way cold and hot.

The other issue is that it always stalls out on the first stop. I thought I cured this when I fixed my high idle (injector o rings were leaking) but it's still there, maybe not as pronounced.

Also, I often hear of people praising the low end torque of the 4.0, but mine always seems to lag until around 1800 RPM's. Is that low? I have 235s, 3.07's and an AX15, and when I let the clutch out slowly, with some gas, it just seems like it wants to die and barely has enough power to get itself moving. Runs good at high RPM, though.


I'm going to check my plugs tomorrow, and the connectors at the firewall & ECM for corrosion. I have a 2 year old O2 sensor, a new tps, cleaned ford injectors, new & cleaned IAC, cleaned TB, new intake manifold gasket and a recently fixed exhaust manifold.

It just seems to be low on power, and running rich. It has a cat, but you can definitely smell that terrible umburnt gasoline smell at all times.

So yeah, does this sound like limp mode? Or is that more pronounced?

89 XJ with 4.0
 
Check the air charge temp sensor. Most people overlook it. Also as always, check the ground strap from the head to the firewall.
 
Like old man said check the MAT and the CTS too.

Here is a great Renix link on sensors:

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

You didn't mention what temperature your engine is hitting/what thermostat you have?

I've checked both the CTS and IAC, and they're both within spec when it's warm. (Edit: Havn't checked them when it's cold, yet). I've also tried unplugging them both which really doesn't make any running difference.

I've swapped out the MAP sensor with a junkyard one and made no difference.

Thermostat is new OEM, as per old thread, but I'm going to change it out with a Stant super thermostat this weekend.
 
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Also check your cap, rotor, and plug wires. My idle was fixed by a combination of plugs, rotor, wires, cap, and using seafoam - I seafoamed it and it got better, then replaced cap&rotor, got way WAY better (they were pretty horribly arced up), then replaced plugs and it idles almost perfectly now.

Plug wire itself doesn't really go "bad" but the terminals at the ends of mine were pretty badly corroded, so I just replaced them.
 
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