Some recent 4.0L turbo fabrication work...

[Boostwerks.com]

I posted these on the Jeepforum, but for those who do not venture over there, here's the pics. :) I am peiceing together complete turbo kit's for the 4.0Ls, and should be done in the next couple weeks. The kit will fit a Garrett 60 trim T3/T4 like the one pictured that is capable of over 400whp (for those with built motors and balls :roll: ).

Well here's the pictures that i promised. Keep in mind that this is a purpose built fabrication manifold, and does in no way represnt the quality of manifolds that I am selling. The one pictured is MIG welded, where as they will be TIG'd. It is mearly the manifold I use for mock up purposes, although it gives you guys an idea of where the turbo will sit, and where the piping will be ran. Unfortunetly, I forgot to take pics of the charge piping, intake tube, and down pipe fabrication, but I will have pics of them soon.

The pics show how the charge piping will wrap around the intake manifold. You can see in previous pics that the intake tube will dip down underneith the engine mount and place a filter where the stock air box rests. The down pipe will also be placed in the stock location.

Let me know what you guys think! I'm always open to new ideas.
(Sorry the pics aren't click free. My site's server is getting worked on apparently)

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=22017&stc=1&d=1161667554

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=22018&stc=1&d=1161667554

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=22019&stc=1&d=1161667554

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=22020&stc=1&d=1161667572

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=22021&stc=1&d=1161667572

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=22023&stc=1&d=1161667689

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=22024&stc=1&d=1161667689

[87manche]

must log into jeepforum to view those photos.
host them at photobucket or tinypic.

[Boostwerks.com]

Oh didn't know that. Will do! thanks. :)

[Boostwerks.com]

Alright here they are:

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_1999.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2006.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2000.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2001.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2002.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2003.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2004.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2005.jpg

[CartsXJ]

I like you work and definately am interested in a kit or destructions when you finish everything up. I do have one question, though, will cold water splashing up and hitting the hot cast turbo housing have any effect on it? As far as possible cracking? I am one to stay out of the water and mud, but on some trails up here in the northeast, you can't miss it.

[Boostwerks.com]

I like you work and definately am interested in a kit or destructions when you finish everything up. I do have one question, though, will cold water splashing up and hitting the hot cast turbo housing have any effect on it? As far as possible cracking? I am one to stay out of the water and mud, but on some trails up here in the northeast, you can't miss it.

Thanks!

Splashing water shouldn't be a problem. A lot of Honda guys daily drive with my manifolds and have never had any problems with water splashing. However...

Driving the turbo'd rig through 5ft of water where it would place the turbo completely under water would definetly cause problems. I am definetly NOT reccomending someone take their setup through deep water. Splashing water isn't much of a problem because the water almost instantly evaporates. If you suddenly submerge a hot turbo or manifold, something is definetly going to crack.

[Boostwerks.com]

Oh...I'd also like to mention that the block and intake manifold should do a great job at limiting the amount of splashed water on the manifold, so I really don't see any problems.

[czb83]

Looks nice. I had plans to go turbo soon also. Still working on getting my programmable fuel controller done first though. I don't know a whole lot about turbos, so forgive if my questions are stupid.

1. I notice when you buy headers, they try to seperate flow and meet at a collector. Does all that go out the window with a turbo? I noticed the turbine inlet was basically between two cylinders, and what I believe is the wastegate whole infront of another cylinder. Will this cause problems with erratic boost pressure, or some cylinders running differently than others.

2. What was the reason for choosing the turbo to go there? What if it could place where the airbox is? Or would that require cutting a whole in the hood(which might still be acceptable).

3. Whats are the reasons to not just bolt a turbo to the bottom of the stock manifold and cut a whole at the collector for wastegate. Don't even know if this is possible.

[CartsXJ]

Thanks!

Splashing water shouldn't be a problem. A lot of Honda guys daily drive with my manifolds and have never had any problems with water splashing. However...

Driving the turbo'd rig through 5ft of water where it would place the turbo completely under water would definetly cause problems. I am definetly NOT reccomending someone take their setup through deep water. Splashing water isn't much of a problem because the water almost instantly evaporates. If you suddenly submerge a hot turbo or manifold, something is definetly going to crack.


Thats what I thought. I wonder how those turbo systems that, what ever the company is, make that get installed inplace of the muffler. I take it something like that wouldn't be good for our market. I don't plain on doing deep water crossing, but hey you never know when you might get caught in a river. Would it be possible to mount the turbo further up and near where the airbox was?

[Boostwerks.com]

Looks nice. I had plans to go turbo soon also. Still working on getting my programmable fuel controller done first though. I don't know a whole lot about turbos, so forgive if my questions are stupid.

1. I notice when you buy headers, they try to seperate flow and meet at a collector. Does all that go out the window with a turbo? I noticed the turbine inlet was basically between two cylinders, and what I believe is the wastegate whole infront of another cylinder. Will this cause problems with erratic boost pressure, or some cylinders running differently than others.

2. What was the reason for choosing the turbo to go there? What if it could place where the airbox is? Or would that require cutting a whole in the hood(which might still be acceptable).

3. Whats are the reasons to not just bolt a turbo to the bottom of the stock manifold and cut a whole at the collector for wastegate. Don't even know if this is possible.

Right on. What fuel controler are you going with? I am most likely going to be using the Splitsec FTC1.

1. To answer that question it's really yes and no. Collectors are always the most important part of a manifold...IF you are looking for the most efficent power out of the setup. The only reason I'm not using one is simply because there isn't enough room. It would also increase the price of the manifolds by a factor of at least 2. On the other hand, the idea of a collector does kind of go out the window. This is because turbo's mainly source their energy from the kinetic pressure and heat in the manifold. Because of this, it doesn't really matter where I place the turbo in the manifold. The cylinders closer to the turbo will of course be slightly more efficent because of the slightly less work required compared to the other cylinders, but it's not much of a difference at all. When it comes down to it, the cylinders are all working to maintain an equal pressure in the log part of the manifold, so the difference is negligable. However, if you were looking for huge power increases, then the cylinder-cylinder difference becomes a potential hinderance opon power. At some point in the future, I will definetly try and fit a manifold with a nice 6-1 collector, but to keep the price down and ensure reliability the log manifold is more than enough. :)

Heres a pic of my honda manifolds that have a 4-1 collector:

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/manifoldpics023.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/manifoldpics008.jpg

2. The reason to go where it is, is because it makes the charge piping, intake tube, and down pipe placement ideal. Also because it's closer to the block there is less vibrational leverage placed upon the manifold, so it will resist cracking a lot better. I definetly didn't want to mount it somewhere which would require modifications to the unibody or exterior. Most people don't like kits that require major modifications to their vehicle. Finally, It's also "sleeper"...hehe. Once everything is installed your really only going to see the intake tube and charge piping. :D

3. Simply put...just not enough room. The turbo would basically sit right ontop of the driveshaft. 505's pos kit places the turbo on the other side of the engine bay by using a down pipe that connects the turbo to the stock manifold. This is a VERY bad design, as that side of the engine bay was never designed to have a source of major heat. It's always better to fit a turbo where the stock manifold is placed.

[czb83]

Right on. What fuel controler are you going with? I am most likely going to be using the Splitsec FTC1.


I built a MegaSquirt controller. I managed to the jeep started for a second, but been to busy to do anything with it lately. I'm trying to figure out a way to split the Hall Sensor outputs between the MS and stock ECU so that the stock ECU can still control things like autoshutdown relay and gauges.

[jfox21]

that is some awesome work.

how much do you think you would sell the kit for?

[Boostwerks.com]

that is some awesome work.

how much do you think you would sell the kit for?

I have a vendor thread on the Jeepforum:

- Manifolds are available now at $500 shipped to your door.
- Complete kits will be available soon and be around $3750.

[Beej]

I have a vendor thread on the Jeepforum: Do you have a running prototype? Any videos? I'm interested too...

[Boostwerks.com]

All fab work is being done off my own 99. I tried looking for a person willing to have me build them a complete kit a couple months ago, but since I'm new to the forums there wasn't really any trust. :p

In that case, there isn't a running prototype yet. I am in the process of building a couple customer manifolds, but at this point thats about it. It will be at least a couple months before a setup (either mine or someone elses) is up and running.

[Boostwerks.com]

Finished up the charge piping and intake tube last night:

Heres the intake tube:

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2015.jpg

This is what it will look like from the front:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2017.jpg

And this is what it will look like from the driver side:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2016.jpg

And the charge piping:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2018.jpg

Roughly layed out:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2019.jpg

What it should look like from the drivers side:
http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2020.jpg

More updates to come soon! Including the DP. ;)

[Mike1331]

It looks like the driver side upper controll arm will hit the turbo uppon mild articulation.

[Boostwerks.com]

It looks like the driver side upper controll arm will hit the turbo uppon mild articulation.

Yup, it definetly could be a problem. This is why I'm moving the turbo up about an inch from what you see in the picture. It won't be a problem unless you don't have the proper bump stops, and definetly won't be a problem for anyone who has a lift.

[bigolexj]

I can see from those last pics that your cat approves. What more trust does one need???? lol

;)

bigole

[Boostwerks.com]

lol. Whats funny is that I didn't even know the little XXXXer was there until after I took the pics. He's so small and quiet that you can't really tell he's even there. :P

[czb83]

If this all works out, do you plan on selling the pieces seperately? I would be interested the the manifold and the intake pipes. Im not looking for 400hp(maybe 300), and might be going a smaller turbo. If the turbine inlets and intake inlets are different sizes, would it be difficult to remake the pipes in different sizes?

Also, I'm guessing your working around the constraints of the front driveshaft, what if we have 2WD, and don't have to worry about this. There might be more room to do things in a better way. Of course I don't know how much work it takes to figure all this stuff out, but if its not too difficult to have different options it might be nice.

I have been really worried about what I was going to do for the tubing and manifold, so Im getting excited about your work.

[Skullver]

right on, nice work, will be interesting to see how it turns out. Here is another fellow that did a neat XJ turbo conversion as well as a bunch of nice suspension and body work:

http://www.offroadfabnet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=808

[Boostwerks.com]

If this all works out, do you plan on selling the pieces seperately? I would be interested the the manifold and the intake pipes. Im not looking for 400hp(maybe 300), and might be going a smaller turbo. If the turbine inlets and intake inlets are different sizes, would it be difficult to remake the pipes in different sizes?

Also, I'm guessing your working around the constraints of the front driveshaft, what if we have 2WD, and don't have to worry about this. There might be more room to do things in a better way. Of course I don't know how much work it takes to figure all this stuff out, but if its not too difficult to have different options it might be nice.

I have been really worried about what I was going to do for the tubing and manifold, so Im getting excited about your work.

Of course! Although you don't have to shoot for 400hp to run this turbo. The T3 hotside will allow it to spool great (it should have 1psi by about 2000rpm, and full boost around 2500). yet the high flowing 60 trim compressor allows high power to be possible.

I will definetly have piping kits available for those who want it, although because of differences between turbo's I'd still reccomend that you use the turbo I supply in the kits. However, like you requested, I could always make the pipes to your specs. It would be hard for me to garuantee fitment then, but I could do it if you really needed them.

I'm not really worried about the piping fitting in the XJ's. What I am worried about however, are the TJ's because there is so much crap on the drivers side of the engine bay.


Skullvarianright on, nice work, will be interesting to see how it turns out. Here is another fellow that did a neat XJ turbo conversion as well as a bunch of nice suspension and body work:

I think I've seen that one before. Definetly great fab work right there. I don't like rear mounted turbo's because they complicate everything, but I can definetly see it being good for engine bay heat control. Although I am going to take extensive measures to make sure my kit's don't drasticly increase engine bay heat. Such as...The Manifold will be ceramic coated, I will supply a heat wraping kit for the down pipe, and depending on fitment, I might even supply a heat blanket for the turbine. combined with the methanol injection, there shouldn't be any heat related issues. :D

[BlueCuda]

The only issue I see that bothers me is oil drainback, it looks like it will have a pretty decent shot at the pan though. My expierience has been if there is any doubt in the drainback it won't drainback enough. Just went though this on a buddy of mine V8 S-10 that we put an HX40 on, got it resolved it just really need a striaight down shot at the pan. Other than that I like the look of your kit sofar. I could never be a customer because the horsepower junky in my is just as strong as the wheeling side lol. I have for sure had that area under water before. Nice work man!

[Boostwerks.com]

The only issue I see that bothers me is oil drainback, it looks like it will have a pretty decent shot at the pan though. My expierience has been if there is any doubt in the drainback it won't drainback enough. Just went though this on a buddy of mine V8 S-10 that we put an HX40 on, got it resolved it just really need a striaight down shot at the pan. Other than that I like the look of your kit sofar. I could never be a customer because the horsepower junky in my is just as strong as the wheeling side lol. I have for sure had that area under water before. Nice work man!

Thanks!

The oil drain will not be a problem. I've built enough turbo setups to know exactly how not to do it...:nono:

It will have almost 3/4' of straight 10an line to the pan before doing a 90deg into the pan. it won't have any problems. I've had harsher angles on other setups and have never had a problem with those. Most oil drain problems are associated wtih either too small of a line, a kinked line, or a line that has an upward bend in it at somepoint before it reaches the pan.

[Root Moose]

Coupla things... Apologies if I missed it above.

Do you have a link to a compressor map for the turbo you are using? Isn't a T3/T4 hybrid normally used on fried rice in the 1.5-2.5 liter range? It's been a while, correct me if I'm wrong.

How much boost are you planning on running? 1 Bar? Less? More? Have you calculated the effective compression ratio for the amount of boost you are planning on running?

Regarding the possiblilty of cold water on the turbo housing... The Land cruiser guys that I know that run turbo diesels don't worry about this. They will idle a minute or so before crossing water but beyond that no biggie. It's not like you typically run at full boost on the highway for 30 minnutes and then go straight into a deep water crossing - at least not normally. ;)

[czb83]

Do you have a link to a compressor map for the turbo you are using? Isn't a T3/T4 hybrid normally used on fried rice in the 1.5-2.5 liter range? It's been a while, correct me if I'm wrong.


The way I had understood it, is that you aim for the hp amount you want to put out to size it. If the hondas are small, but there going for 15-20psi then there going to be putting out alot of power, perhaps the same that were aiming for, therefore the turbines would be the same size. Correct me if im mistaken.

[Boostwerks.com]

Coupla things... Apologies if I missed it above.

Do you have a link to a compressor map for the turbo you are using? Isn't a T3/T4 hybrid normally used on fried rice in the 1.5-2.5 liter range? It's been a while, correct me if I'm wrong.

How much boost are you planning on running? 1 Bar? Less? More? Have you calculated the effective compression ratio for the amount of boost you are planning on running?

Regarding the possiblilty of cold water on the turbo housing... The Land cruiser guys that I know that run turbo diesels don't worry about this. They will idle a minute or so before crossing water but beyond that no biggie. It's not like you typically run at full boost on the highway for 30 minnutes and then go straight into a deep water crossing - at least not normally. ;)

I don't have a link to one, but I could find one if you really wished. I actually own and modify those fried ricers (honda) ;) , so I know exactly how they respond on the smaller displacement's. There are a couple reasons why they typically use this size of turbo. For one, high power FWD cars like lag. It helps them keep traction until some momentum is built up. Secondly, they are high reving engines. My B16 redlines at 8500rpm, and this turbo will keep the torque curve nice and flat all the way to it. On a 2.0L honda, this same turbo will typically reach full boost around 4500-5000rpm. Double the displacement and you theoretically have the Jeep motor which will put the spool range around 2000-2500, and also keep the torque curve flat and fat till redline. I would never use this turbo on an engine of this displacement however if it was also reving in the Honda range. You can roughly size a turbo correctly based of where you want the power, and the displacement. The other way is contact the turbo manufacture directly, which is what I did also. :roll:

On my personal setup I will be starting at a conservative 6psi. Once that is fully tuned, we will bump the boost up one psi at a time and watch for signs of knock. We are hoping to find the limits of 91 octane on the stock block which should be around 12-14psi respectively. Once we find the limits we will detune it slightly for reliability.

About those land cruisers...they have cast ductile iron manifolds, not welded up stainless ones like I'm selling. :P The cast iron can handle a much larger heat transfer than stainless because it expands MUCH less. The reason why the stainless manifold would crack, is because the certain area that happens to cool drasticly faster than the surrounding area will put a lot of force on the weakest part forcing it to crack. If I had the capability of building cast iron turbo manifolds I would.

[BlueCuda]

Also diesels run considerably lower exhaust gas temps as well. I know my Cummins dodge will idle as low as 350* EGT if it idles long enough. Gas motors run EGT of 1200ish all the time, idle or not. Allowing a diesel to idle a bit before getting into some water would certainly keep the housing alot cooler than on a gas application.

[Boostwerks.com]

Also diesels run considerably lower exhaust gas temps as well. I know my Cummins dodge will idle as low as 350* EGT if it idles long enough. Gas motors run EGT of 1200ish all the time, idle or not. Allowing a diesel to idle a bit before getting into some water would certainly keep the housing alot cooler than on a gas application.

Damn! I honestly didn't know they had such low egt's at idle! I would have thought the opposite with the ubber high compression ratio's. I wonder if it has to do with the very high fuel pressures required with diesel fuel?

But I agree, thats another good point. :D

[87manche]

Damn! I honestly didn't know they had such low egt's at idle! I would have thought the opposite with the ubber high compression ratio's. I wonder if it has to do with the very high fuel pressures required with diesel fuel?

But I agree, thats another good point. :D
because a diesel controls engine output by regulating fuel not air. SO at idle you're not putting a whole lot of fuel into the motor, less fuel=less heat.

[PstrKd4BrthCntrll]

Major props on the project. I like where you placed your turbo. Stealthy! Looks like everything is going good. I have a 95 Grand cherokee 4.0L that I DD and I plan on either lifting it more for looks[cause I have a chero i beat on] or turboing it. Im not too familiar with turbos...

I was wondering if you plan on added a intercooler to your setup? I think the Grand Nationals just had the turbo dumping into the intake without a intercooler. How much of a difference would there be with and without a intercooler?

Do turbos require a tap into the engine oil pump? or does the turbo itself draw in oil from the pan? I couldnt really see where the oil lines where going from the pics[unless i just missed them]

[Flip94ta]

I am interested in seeing at what rpm these things will spool up, you off road guys with big tires are gonna want the spool to be closer to 2000 rpm.

[Boostwerks.com]

Major props on the project. I like where you placed your turbo. Stealthy! Looks like everything is going good. I have a 95 Grand cherokee 4.0L that I DD and I plan on either lifting it more for looks[cause I have a chero i beat on] or turboing it. Im not too familiar with turbos...

I was wondering if you plan on added a intercooler to your setup? I think the Grand Nationals just had the turbo dumping into the intake without a intercooler. How much of a difference would there be with and without a intercooler?

Do turbos require a tap into the engine oil pump? or does the turbo itself draw in oil from the pan? I couldnt really see where the oil lines where going from the pics[unless i just missed them]

Thanks!

Mine and the kit's I sell will not be intercooled. However I am including a 150psi methanol injection kit which will work just as well, and save the user from any major chassis hacking. Adding an IC to the kit is definetly possible, it just requires modification to the rig, which is why I'm choosing not do include them.

Turbo's do require a source of oil. The kit's will include a 3an ss braided line which will source oil from the stock oil pressure sender location. The oil then drains from the turbo back into the pan. I don't have any lines attached in the pics so thats why you don't see them. ;)

Flip94taI am interested in seeing at what rpm these things will spool up, you off road guys with big tires are gonna want the spool to be closer to 2000 rpm.

It's hard to say exactly when it will since no one has used this particular turbo, and manifold design on the 4.0L to date. However, with some reccomendations by Garrett themselves, and with some common sense based off my 8 years of custom turbo charger work, this turbo with a .63ar turbine should have full boost at about 2500-2800rpm. I will however be using a .82ar housing to make it a little laggier, because I would rather have better fuel economy while cruising. User's can also choose to have the .48ar turbine if they want even quicker spool. :D

[Boostwerks.com]

BTW, I took some quick pics today of the intake tube, and charge piping roughly in their positions. Unfortunetly I wasn't able to take pics of them while the turbo was on, so you'll have to use your imagination... :p

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2040.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2041.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2046.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2043.jpg

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Img_2045.jpg

And the sticker's I'm about to get made... :D

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o206/boostwerks/Stickertype.jpg

[MrShoeBoy]

Looks good from the pics. I would highly recomend ditching the factory motor mounts as they are complete crap. My stock motor started to pull the rubber appart and there where marks on the radiator from the fan. I would be afraid to see what would happen if I kept the stock mounts with the stroker. I think the same would also apply to a turbo'd motor. Too much torque for them to handle and boom there goes the fan into the radiator.

AARON

[Boostwerks.com]

Looks good from the pics. I would highly recomend ditching the factory motor mounts as they are complete crap. My stock motor started to pull the rubber appart and there where marks on the radiator from the fan. I would be afraid to see what would happen if I kept the stock mounts with the stroker. I think the same would also apply to a turbo'd motor. Too much torque for them to handle and boom there goes the fan into the radiator.

AARON

Hehe oh yeah. Theres no way these things would last. Also the engine movement under torque would just be insane because of the amount of rubber they shoved in the stock mounts. I'll definetly want people to upgrade to poly's. :thumbup:

[Dr. Dyno]

I would highly recomend ditching the factory motor mounts as they are complete crap. My stock motor started to pull the rubber appart and there where marks on the radiator from the fan. I would be afraid to see what would happen if I kept the stock mounts with the stroker.

Agree. After 32k miles running my stroker, the driver's side engine mount had almost completely come apart (I had new mounts fitted at the same time as the stroker engine swap in July 2004) so I replaced it as a semi-emergency with a new stock mount. The passenger side mount still looks perfect.
I'm going to buy the MORE bombproof mounts and swap them in when the existing mounts start to crack again (probably won't take long).

[MrShoeBoy]

I have had the MORE bomb proof mounts for years and they are holding up just fine! Before them, the Jeep would only rock a slight bit when blipping the throttle, but after installing the mounts, I can get the whole Jeep to rock just by blipping the throttle. Its really intimidating :D

AARON

[Boostwerks.com]

I have had the MORE bomb proof mounts for years and they are holding up just fine! Before them, the Jeep would only rock a slight bit when blipping the throttle, but after installing the mounts, I can get the whole Jeep to rock just by blipping the throttle. Its really intimidating :D

AARON

Those are still rubber arn't they? I wonder how much deflection they have.

[Kittrell]

Those are still rubber arn't they? I wonder how much deflection they have.

Yes, but it's a different style mount.

[BlueCuda]

Damn! I honestly didn't know they had such low egt's at idle! I would have thought the opposite with the ubber high compression ratio's. I wonder if it has to do with the very high fuel pressures required with diesel fuel?

But I agree, thats another good point. :D

Sorry It took so long to respond.

Like another post mentioned above a diesel has no throttle blade, they use fuel to regulate power. A diesel at idle is flowing alot of air because there is no closed blade, they also don't have vaccuum either for the same reason. So you have a very very small amount of fuel at idle and alot of air.

EGT and boost guages should be a must on any diesel no matter if its stock or not. They are just plain interesting to watch. When I put guages in my frist diesel truck(99 Ram) I was amazed at how low the EGT was and how much boost it held under normal driving, 3-4 psi on the highway and about 700*. Pulling about 10K at 75 with the cruise on its more like 15psi all the time which was so wierd to me for awhile.

Its actually pretty tough for a stockish diesel to get EGT like a gasser. My old truck had a 65hp module in it. On a 100* day with a cab full of people, enclosed trailer with a car and tools etc, and a bed full of coolers and race crap I could make mine get to 1300. Thats from a dead stop on an on ramp and running WOT to about 85mph and thats about 18K of total wieght. Modified is a different story, a friend of mines 95 can slam the gauge so hard on 2000*(in 3rd gear) you can almost hear the needle hit, also about 45ishlbs of boost :D.

OK sorry back on topic. Turbo kits are looking pretty nice :). Its to bad the hood clearance is so damn tight because it would be nice to be able to smooth the inlet into the TB. I don't think it would make that huge of a difference anyways. Keep up the work.

[Boostwerks.com]

Sorry It took so long to respond.

Like another post mentioned above a diesel has no throttle blade, they use fuel to regulate power. A diesel at idle is flowing alot of air because there is no closed blade, they also don't have vaccuum either for the same reason. So you have a very very small amount of fuel at idle and alot of air.

EGT and boost guages should be a must on any diesel no matter if its stock or not. They are just plain interesting to watch. When I put guages in my frist diesel truck(99 Ram) I was amazed at how low the EGT was and how much boost it held under normal driving, 3-4 psi on the highway and about 700*. Pulling about 10K at 75 with the cruise on its more like 15psi all the time which was so wierd to me for awhile.

Its actually pretty tough for a stockish diesel to get EGT like a gasser. My old truck had a 65hp module in it. On a 100* day with a cab full of people, enclosed trailer with a car and tools etc, and a bed full of coolers and race crap I could make mine get to 1300. Thats from a dead stop on an on ramp and running WOT to about 85mph and thats about 18K of total wieght. Modified is a different story, a friend of mines 95 can slam the gauge so hard on 2000*(in 3rd gear) you can almost hear the needle hit, also about 45ishlbs of boost :D.

OK sorry back on topic. Turbo kits are looking pretty nice :). Its to bad the hood clearance is so damn tight because it would be nice to be able to smooth the inlet into the TB. I don't think it would make that huge of a difference anyways. Keep up the work.

Thanks! the hood clearance is actually more than enough. The pic unfortunetly is a little misleading, because there will be a nice 90 deg coupler going into the TB. I've had a lot harsher angles on other cars.

And BTW...Complete kits are now available! :lickout:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=334932

[BBeach]

How much would you charge without the meth injection kit if we wanted to run at a lower boost? Im not sure how much it adds to the price but itd be nice if it was a little cheaper.

[Boostwerks.com]

How much would you charge without the meth injection kit if we wanted to run at a lower boost? Im not sure how much it adds to the price but itd be nice if it was a little cheaper.

It would be $3300 shipped. :chef:

[SCW]

Bryson, while your work is both interesting and somewhat unique, I'd REALLY like to see you become a member and a sponsor of NAXJA before you peddle too hard (and even if you don't). I think tech write-ups are good, but look at the class AJs Armor exhibits when discussing cost and availabiltiy of goods in his posts. He doesn't. He takes it back-channel as soon as someone wants specifics on his goods.

[Beej]

Bryson, while your work is both interesting and somewhat unique, I'd REALLY like to see you become a member and a sponsor of NAXJA before you peddle too hard (and even if you don't). I think tech write-ups are good, but look at the class AJs Armor exhibits when discussing cost and availabiltiy of goods in his posts. He doesn't. He takes it back-channel as soon as someone wants specifics on his goods. I'm inclined to agree. I like your work as well Bryson and am interested too, but there are specific rules for vendors on this site.

On another note, what is behind the link you posted to the Jeep Forum. I'm not a member and I'd rather not register there. Would you mind summarizing it for us?

[Boostwerks.com]

Bryson, while your work is both interesting and somewhat unique, I'd REALLY like to see you become a member and a sponsor of NAXJA before you peddle too hard (and even if you don't). I think tech write-ups are good, but look at the class AJs Armor exhibits when discussing cost and availabiltiy of goods in his posts. He doesn't. He takes it back-channel as soon as someone wants specifics on his goods.

I truely am sorry. I know the rules, but I wasn't expecting this to turn into this. It was mearly to show my recent fab work, but then I started getting questions regarding the kits. I'll register as a sponsor as soon as possible! :)

On another note, what is behind the link you posted to the Jeep Forum. I'm not a member and I'd rather not register there. Would you mind summarizing it for us

Basically just the same pics I hosted. I did post the link to my Vendor thread, but because of rules, I'd rather not discuss details. I guess you could PM me if you like.

[5-90]

Bryson -
I see you're already getting the message, but there should probably be an "official" weighing-in...

No trouble with the tech side of the post - and this is an avenue that isn't often explored. Bravo Zulu on that - since I tend more toward superchargers anyhow, this is something that we'll probably want you to explore further!

On the flipside, tho (here comes the bad part...) Mod Tech isn't the place for commercial pretty damn near anything - I run into this same problem myself. Please do take it backchannel, and it may be worthwhile for you to kick open a free hosting account (like Geocities, for instance) and build a site with a FAQ and an email link.

Alternatively, you can get this worked out some more from a tech angle, and then put up the commercial part in Vendors or something similar.

I'm sure that this is good tech, and it is an avenue that really should be explored - but if the commercial bent keeps going, this thread will probably need to be either locked or deleted. I'd really hate to do that - I'd like to see more of this sort of thing, to be perfectly honest!

For everyone wanting to know more about kit potential, please do keep commercial comms backchannel, via PM or e-mail. It really would help - and I'd like to see this developed rather than cut off!

5-90

[SCW]

I truely am sorry. I know the rules, but I wasn't expecting this to turn into this. It was mearly to show my recent fab work, but then I started getting questions regarding the kits. I'll register as a sponsor as soon as possible! :)



Basically just the same pics I hosted. I did post the link to my Vendor thread, but because of rules, I'd rather not discuss details. I guess you could PM me if you like.

Thanks, I was really hoping not to turn this into a pissing fight where nobody wins, I don't read JeepForum anymore (nothing wrong with it, I just don't) and I really like having the tech here. I really doubt I'll ever turbo my Heep, but I like to read it anyway. I think by posting a lot of tech and maybe a link in your sig (when you are a member) you will notice that the members/users here will know where to get what you have. For example, Jon (5-90) does battery cables. Ask a question about alternators or battery cables and he doesn't have to toot his own horn about either, the forum members will do it for him everytime a related question comes up.

Again, thanks and keep up the good tech-

[1bolt]

So this thread begs the question which is worse: Informative writeups that have some moderate level of "commercial" or advertisement aspect to them?

Or being so super anal sensitive about it that a really good thread was completely killed?

Seriously are we all so wrapped up in worrying about spam that we're killing good threads and not hearing about interesting products?

I know of a certain thread right now that is flurting with "commercial" or "advertisment" because the product is litterally being developed on these forums. However it's specialized enough that not talking about it because it's "commercial" would likely KILL IT ENTIRELY.

As a BUNCH of people who all own the same vehicles, do we REALLY need to hold a "vendor" who makes EXTREMELY specialized products specifically for us, to such ridiculous standards?

And I'm not saying this because I make and sell XJ related stuff as a side gig. Seriously!

Bryson: I know you're still around, have you done any more work on this turbo setup?

[tealcherokee]

i posted pics in a diff thread.... this ones 4 months old btw...

[1bolt]

thanks I can read dates too :) I searched all I found was your finished manifold picture and no turbo'ed XJ. I'd welcome a link to it if you have one.

[tealcherokee]

well the motor is sittin in my basement, the turbo and been bolted up, it took some additional modifications to the manifold to get to work, i have no pics as of yet.

[seanyb505]

Chop chop! That motor isnt going to fix itself...jk

[Flash]

well the motor is sittin in my basement, the turbo and been bolted up, it took some additional modifications to the manifold to get to work, i have no pics as of yet.

I would just like to say to you and to Bryson GRATE JOB SO FAR!!!!!!
All tho i have no desire for such a project, i can understand........ok my be not, but i can sure appreciate the the frustrating, brain scratching and most of all the DEDICATION that this project has and will require!

Personally i thing this post should go on Just for the sake of those that due now how to us the SEARCH BUTTON in the future. I guess I real shouldn't make that bold, sense I'm not the best at the searches my self:sad1:


Flash

[tealcherokee]

manifold is dont, head is off, anyone have $400 for roller rockers

[Pro Stock John]

Don't forget you need to run more valvespring pressure, otherwise you'll get valvefloat.

[tealcherokee]

valves float at 5300 rpm, my redline (and rev limiter) is 5000 rpm so thats all set....

here are some pics....


http://rockkustoms.com/street/DSC00549.JPG
http://rockkustoms.com/street/DSC00550.JPG
http://rockkustoms.com/street/DSC00551.JPG
http://rockkustoms.com/street/DSC00555.JPG
http://rockkustoms.com/street/DSC00556.JPG
http://rockkustoms.com/street/DSC00558.JPG
http://rockkustoms.com/street/DSC00559.JPG
http://rockkustoms.com/street/DSC00560.JPG
http://rockkustoms.com/street/DSC00562.JPG
http://rockkustoms.com/street/DSC00564.JPG

[czb83]

Cool pics. Noticed the manifold flange had that triangle piece added? Was it hitting something without it? Would it not just worked just angling the flange out differently? Not saying its better that way, just wondering. Does the turbo need to be supported by something else besides the manifold? Seems like it would relieve stress off manifold. I figure yall have also testing it inside a vehicle, how does it fit, close to anything critical? Think the fuel lines need to be moved. I was checking under my vehicle and it seems like things might get a little close. What about the intercooler, im guessing under the bumper?

[tealcherokee]

the turbo hit the block, thats why i added that, yes the angle could be changed, but i opted to go that route.

we dont know how it fits in the verhicle yet.... still in prototype stages

[1bolt]

I realize that's just a prototype but the heat effect zone (almost none) and the color of the bead (dull lead like) on that V notch shapped weld tell me it's almost pure filler rod.

[nekocopter]

So wtf happend to Bryson?

Did we scare him off?

I wanna hear more about his kits, damnit.

My stroker needs some forced induction like a crack head needs a hit!

300 horses just isn't doing it for me anymore.

[tealcherokee]

I realize that's just a prototype but the heat effect zone (almost none) and the color of the bead (dull lead like) on that V notch shapped weld tell me it's almost pure filler rod.

you try welding .120 mild to .200 stainless w/ a 90amp mig :D

itll hold fine, i didnt feel like runnin down to the shop, the flat plate on the back side is welded on both sides, and thats the part thats taking some abuse, obviously once i welded the triangles in, i couldnt get the gun in there so the sides arent welded on both sides