94 4.0 not starting with ignition and lose of electrical components

I'm having a problem in my 94 4.0 auto jeep cherokee 4x4. I cant get the key to fully turn in the ignition and it wont turn back to the ACC position. I tried to adjust the ignition on the column but still not good. I can bypass the NSS and jump the starter wire to the + terminal it will start every time. But sometimes driving down the road, I will lose all electrical components. wipers, radio, turn signals, etc. I'm stumped :dunno:

The NSS, mounted on the AW4 transmission, has a couple of jobs. Of primary concern to you is the crank/no crank issue. The NSS is NOT screwing with your key.

There is a transmission interlock that could be messing with your key, it is the system that prevents you from removing the key unless you are in PARK.

A screwed up ignition switch (not the key), located at the foot of the steering column (and, coincidentally, where the transmission interlock cable is also mounted) could be the cause of your loss of "switched" electrical components.

Yeh I believe you helped me when the nut I believe came loose and fell off the trans interlock. I used the FSM to try and adjust it properly. I even adjusted the ignition accordingly.

How can I test the ignition? I noticed the FSM said there was a rod that had to be lined up with the certain trans selections with the key location.

So even with the jeep running the ignition could still be the cause of the electrical components cutting off?

thanks Joe!

I think it is a good place to start.

A good going over of all your cables and grounds is always a good idea as routine maintenance, and almost a necessity when you have electrical issues.

As the power loss seem limited to switched items, check the ignition switch and try and adjust the park lock cable again, the adjustment is under the center console.

Have you replaced the ignition key cylinder assembly? If it is jamming up, and not turning freely, you should replace it now while you can still get it out without having to drill it out. Sorry, if I have misinterpreted your problem, but a jammed up key cylinder is very hard to remove if you can't get the cylinder in the correct position for removal and replacement. Drilling one out can damage other parts of the steering column, and is no fun...so I advise you replace it before it gets worse.

I'm having electrical problems not just the key deal. I may have to find another person to check it out since I'm stumped at the adjusting. The key is jamming up but that might be part of the ignition problem. I dont think the key assembly would cause the electrical cut outs.

If your key cylinder is not holding the ignition switch steady in the run position, you can lose power....even stall. Good luck with it...sounds like you are on the right track.

should i go to the dealer to get a new key cylinder?

memphisraines26 said:

should i go to the dealer to get a new key cylinder?

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They are usually cheaper at a locksmith, and he can re-key it to match your old keys.

Ok. i had 30min before work and could work on the jeep today. I think I found a big problem...







I also bought a new ignition from Advance Auto for $13 for a tilt steering since I can adjust the wheel...


but they dont look the same...


so it looks like i need to replace the blue plug. suggestions? looks like I'm on the right path? I can jump start the jeep with power directly to the starter. I get headlights and emergency flashers but nothing with the key in the switch. I guess I know why now

You can also go with the individual crimp on connectors from the auto parts store generic parts and skip the blue plug. The spade and the socket (female) for the spade.

ok, I got the new ignition in, adjusted according to the FSM, and it CRANKS! only issue I have now is when I turn the key back towards me into the ACC position, the radio wont come on but will in the ON position.? :banghead:

memphisraines26 said:

ok, I got the new ignition in, adjusted according to the FSM, and it CRANKS! only issue I have now is when I turn the key back towards me into the ACC position, the radio wont come on but will in the ON position.? :banghead:

Click to expand...

Stock radio?

What is weird is that anything switched and powered at ACC is powered at ON.

joe_peters said:

Stock radio?

What is weird is that anything switched and powered at ACC is powered at ON.

Click to expand...

Yes Stock radio.

Could it be I need to readjust? I'm just so relieved to be able to start the jeep again with the key and find the bad ignition. And I did de-pin the blue blue and used the bare connectors on the ignition switch for now.

It's dark out now so I can't go over all the bay again to look for any loose connections or grounds. Would a loose ground cause the meltdown? The jeep has over 222K miles. I can at least get it to someone to really go over the wiring then. I'm just a shade tree mechanic that tries to fix my own problems such as this but really have loads to learn especially wiring.

Thanks for all the guidance!

memphisraines26 said:

Yes Stock radio.

Could it be I need to readjust? I'm just so relieved to be able to start the jeep again with the key and find the bad ignition. And I did de-pin the blue blue and used the bare connectors on the ignition switch for now.

It's dark out now so I can't go over all the bay again to look for any loose connections or grounds. Would a loose ground cause the meltdown? The jeep has over 222K miles. I can at least get it to someone to really go over the wiring then. I'm just a shade tree mechanic that tries to fix my own problems such as this but really have loads to learn especially wiring.

Thanks for all the guidance!

Click to expand...

Honestly, the problem with the XJs' wiring is that the whole system was over-engineered. Over-engineered used to mean that it was built to last for a long time. Unfortunately it now means CHEAP. You can use small gauge wire, hell, the damn Peugeot 505 used some of the thinnest wire I have ever seen in automotive applications, but they at least used relays--the last gas version I worked on had 35 relays in it!

You can change your habits to try and reduce the load on the switch--turn off all accessories while the engine is still running, then turn off the ignition. That will reduce the load on the switch next time you start it. You could turn off the accessories after shutting off the engine, but who would really remember to do it?

Problematic electrical areas of the XJ that IMHO need re-wiring with relays: headlights should have a relay to reduce the load off the switch; even better install and upgraded harness too; blower motor should have a relay, fog lights too.

Here is an article on the XJ electrical and some suggested upgrades:

http://www.olypen.com/craigh/charge.htm

thanks joe. I'll have a read on that wiring. I know I de-pinned and replaced in the same spots. I see from the FSM when testing that A and B-2 were ACC. I dont have a wire on B-2 but only on B-1 since I didnt have a wire on B-2 before... Dont really need the ACC position anyways lol.

memphisraines26 said:

thanks joe. I'll have a read on that wiring. I know I de-pinned and replaced in the same spots. I see from the FSM when testing that A and B-2 were ACC. I dont have a wire on B-2 but only on B-1 since I didnt have a wire on B-2 before... Dont really need the ACC position anyways lol.

Click to expand...

Keep us updated!

Good luck.