Gears VS Locker which first?

Ok So I am not planning on running anything bigger than the 33s I have now for atleast 3-4 years. Current axles are HP30 and 29spline with 3.07s:doh:.
I plan on finding a set of these same axles from a 4 banger with 4.10s and throwing them in.

But I can't do those axles and a locker at the same time. I can do one or the other and until summer when I can have both done.

I'm leaning towards a rear Aussie

what do you guys think?

If you're doing a full swap, do the axle swap first. The 3.07 and 4.10 axles use different carriers in the front(rear is the same) If you did the locker first, you'd have to get a new (full case) locker for the front.

The aussie locker will trade between the carriers.

I would do the axles first, locker last.

I have a NP 231, D30 CAD w/Posi-Lok, and an Aussie Locker up front.

I always seem to need the locker most when climbing, and that is when the rear tires mostly seem rooted to the ground by weight transfer, and the Aussie helps to keep the front end in the game. My .02 worth.

joe_peters said:

I would do the axles first, locker last.

I have a NP 231, D30 CAD w/Posi-Lok, and an Aussie Locker up front.

I always seem to need the locker most when climbing, and that is when the rear tires mostly seem rooted to the ground by weight transfer, and the Aussie helps to keep the front end in the game. My .02 worth.

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I have the same setup without the posi-lok (91 always locked). I prefer locker in rear. If both rear wheels are "rooted" in ground that's where you need the locker. You will spin one tire as soon as there is any difference in friction then the front will brunt the power and blow out your front u joint on the driver side which will lever your ball joints apart and BOOM! I've wheeled with both and have found no advantage of having a locker in the front only. If you beef up the front end with later model axles you can help your situation but then all the force goes to your gears.
I haven't had a posi in rear but from what I've read they fail at the moment you need them most so it makes sense that joe needs a front locker at that point.
Totally my .02 as well. I hope this helps with this part.

Always gear to the tires you plan to run first.

P/U a D30 from a 4cyl Auto, (4.56 gears) strengthen with 97 later axles with 297 joints (my next upgrade) and buy 4.56's for your 8.25.

Then later you can lock front and rear and still not spend too much money.
aperwork

88xjlover said:

I have the same setup without the posi-lok (91 always locked). I prefer locker in rear. If both rear wheels are "rooted" in ground that's where you need the locker. You will spin one tire as soon as there is any difference in friction then the front will brunt the power and blow out your front u joint on the driver side which will lever your ball joints apart and BOOM! I've wheeled with both and have found no advantage of having a locker in the front only.

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I know its you own opion but i call BS on this one.

Front or rear locker is totally personal preference. When I drove my rig on the street daily I ran a front locker. I liked it's seamlessness in every day driving, and I rarely used 4wd in the winter at surface road speeds.

Off road it's a wash, some situations are better with either one.