Dana 44 high steer

I have been looking all over the net to find a good deal on high steer arms for my dana 44 conversion. Ballistic fabrication has a high steer kit with both arms, studs, nuts, and cones for $190. I am also wanting to run TRE's and run a drag link all the way to the steering arm, "true high steer." Is there any other good deals I missed, any reason why I should choose one over the other?

DON'T go with Ballistic fab arms if you are running coils. The arms are not long enough for the tie rod to clear the coils, they will hit, and you won't have any turning radius. You need at least 7" from the TRE mounting hole to the center of the ball joint. (Trust me, I bought Ballistic arms originally, and I ended up buying new arms)

Parts Mike are great arms, I run them, as well as many others. They also come with the studs, conical washers, and nuts.
http://www.partsmike.com/store/store.php?crn=219&rn=1291&action=show_detail

I believe you also have your terms mixed up. If you have flat top knuckles with high steer arms, then you have "true high steer." If you have a drag link that attaches to the passenger knuckle, and then a separate tie rod that attaches between the passenger and driver knuckles, then you have crossover steering.

Josh, check with Darrell at KNA, and R&P 4WD in Oregon City. I know both make their own high steer arms.

What knuckles are you running?



Like Begster, I used Parts Mike arms. No complaints about them.

I am running chevy 6 on 5.5 flat top knuckles. I am also going to be running 2.5 fox air shocks so there is not going to be any clearance issues with the coils getting in the way since I won't have any. I called KnA and he gets his arms from Sky manufacturing, I think I am going to go with those arms. $150 for the arms.

If you want tight steering you'll need to pay attention to the length of the arms, the drag link hole to ball joint center. To do what you're talking about, the tie rod hole will need to be closer, then the drag link hole outside of that on the pass side arm. Otherwise you'll need an inverted T setup with the drag link attatching to the TRE at the pass knuckle....but those long TRE's that have a hole for the drag link have a tendancy to bend.

Lot's of arms to choose from, Google is your friend.

Probably the cheapest arm is the Tera arm.

Goatman said:

but those long TRE's that have a hole for the drag link have a tendancy to bend.

Click to expand...

Then they break:



I am currently trying to figure this out, do I want to keep the inverted T with my 44 highsteer arms, or put the drag link into the arm and then the tie rod into the stock steering arm locations or just run heim joints....:dunno:



-Alex