Spraying entire jeep with rustoleum hammered

i was using rustoleum hammered paint for the first time last weekend on my transfer case skid. it seemed to lay down nicely and i couldnt see streeks from the spray.

how do you think it would look on the entire body of an xj?

What ever you do, don't use Rustoleum. If you are set on doing this, use the original Hammerite brand. The Rustoleum stuff fades, chips, and can be removed with lacquer thinner. The Hammerite stuff can be bought in quarts and gallons and once dry is damn near impervious.

thanks for the tip! if i were to buy it by the gallon i would have to find a sprayer.

or you could use a roller

ha i thought you got hammered and sprayed your jeep with rustoleum! i was hopin to see some pics of a really wonky drunken paintjob....

old_man said:

What ever you do, don't use Rustoleum. If you are set on doing this, use the original Hammerite brand. The Rustoleum stuff fades, chips, and can be removed with lacquer thinner. The Hammerite stuff can be bought in quarts and gallons and once dry is damn near impervious.

Click to expand...

I've never tried spraying Hammerite, though they do sell rattle cans. You'd likely need a bunch of the special thinner for the Hammerite. The best likely solution would be to buy a viscosity meter ( a funnel with a specific sized hole in the bottom and a stop watch). If you were to get it thin enough to go through a gun, coverage may be an issue.
I've used the half flat, water based Hammerite, on bumpers and other bits and pieces. It seems to hold up well. I usually Hammerite primer first.

I recommend the cans if you aren't well versed in spray techniques. As it turns out, you thin the paint very little to spray it, and it takes their special thinner. The cans work fine, just keep them all the same temp and shake them all the time. Remember long steady smooth strokes. The wet thickness effects the hammered finish size.

The wet thickness effects the hammered finish size.

Click to expand...

corrections, the wet thickness GREATLY affects the hammered finish size... I've used both the quart and the spray can. I like the quart better ten fold. It has more solids, and is much easier to get a consistent pattern. However, it does take some effort.

Sray cans should be fine, but like said be sure you keep steady, even strokes or you're going to have one crappy looking finish. The thinner it is, the smaller the "hammer dents", the thicker, the bigger they are.

Just a heads up if you do decide to use the rattle cans...Rust Oleum makes two different cans for their hammered paint. One has a regular push button and the the other can uses a two fingered trigger setup. I did a large project recently where we used about 20 cans of this stuff and the two fingered trigger cans sucked big time. There was huge inconsistency from one can to the next. Some would even drip paint on the work area which was enough to ruin a lot of hard prep work. All of the regular old button type cans of hammered worked just fine so again, I recommend those.