transfer case output seal

92 XJ. Whatever the factory transfer case is what it has. haha. I will get numbers if you really need it...but

The transfer case output seal was leaking so I replaced the seal. The seal I bought though was a lot different than the one I pulled out. The one I pulled out had a huge taper on it (about 3/4'') but the one I put in does not have this taper. its about flat. I installed it w/ no problems and I don't have any leaks either, everything is fine. Just wondering if I'm going to run into problems down the road offroading w/out that extra taper on it. Such as the driveshaft pulling out a bit more so the seal will begin seeping.

I went to Advanced auto they showed me the seal they had, I went to autozone and it was the same, I went to a Chrysler dealer and it was also the same thing, so apparently this should not be an issue. Maybe the person that originally replaced it used an aftermarket one for 4-wheeling purposes?

This ain't no big deal I know, but I just like making sure my S*#$ ain't goin' to break down. yameeeean?:laugh3:

It should be fine.

Good enough for me. Thanks bud

Hallo. Just curious, but did you remove the extension housing for this job?
And was it easy to do?


'92 XJ. wim

Was that "huge taper" a rubber boot? If so, that's just a little extra protection, and nothing to do with the seal proper.

Wim, it's perfectly doable to change the output seal without removing the tailcone - use a thin flat screwdriver or a "seal puller hook" to remove the old seal, then tap the new one in with a mallet. Use some variety of tube (I think I usually use a plumbing fitting) to get around the output shaft and tap the entire seal all at once.

You can pull the tailcone if you want to, but you'll have to clean and RTV the mounting surface. It's up to you.

5-90 said:

Was that "huge taper" a rubber boot? If so, that's just a little extra protection, and nothing to do with the seal proper.

Wim, it's perfectly doable to change the output seal without removing the tailcone - use a thin flat screwdriver or a "seal puller hook" to remove the old seal, then tap the new one in with a mallet. Use some variety of tube (I think I usually use a plumbing fitting) to get around the output shaft and tap the entire seal all at once.

You can pull the tailcone if you want to, but you'll have to clean and RTV the mounting surface. It's up to you.

Click to expand...

Thanks 5-90. The advantage to remove the tailcone, is the chance to check the rear shaft bearing and spilling some Dexron IID.

wim

5-90 said:

Was that "huge taper" a rubber boot? If so, that's just a little extra protection, and nothing to do with the seal proper.

Wim, it's perfectly doable to change the output seal without removing the tailcone - use a thin flat screwdriver or a "seal puller hook" to remove the old seal, then tap the new one in with a mallet. Use some variety of tube (I think I usually use a plumbing fitting) to get around the output shaft and tap the entire seal all at once.

You can pull the tailcone if you want to, but you'll have to clean and RTV the mounting surface. It's up to you.

Click to expand...

Kind of creepy, I think you were staring at me the entire time, you just said back everything that I did haha. Maybe you have done one or two...hahaha. Ya that taper is just a boot. I had thought originally it was seperate.

We are good now. That seal is kind of a pain to get out though...it depends on how long its been in there. When i say it was a pain it took me 15 mins to do the job...so that's really as in depth as anyone needs to get...

My best technique for pulling seals uses a sheet metal screw. Run it into the metal face of the seal, careful not to go to far and hit something. Then use the head as a pry point to pull it out. Beats going at it with a screwdriver and risking gouging the seal surface.

so that seal is leaking slightly....looks like from the bottom and just rolling forward down the housing..not slingling anywhere but it is seeping. WHAT THE F#*%.

I ran into the same exact problem (seal they gave me had the extra boot), the inner seal (suposidly the right seal) was too big, I ended up using a seal from a 93 wrangler with a 4 banger. At that point I actually took my drive shaft in with me to the parts store.

I to had replaced that seal. It leaked right away. end result Ihad to replace the tail housing. It became wore out along the inside.

You can buy just the sleeve that goes inside the housing. It's a pain to press out, but it was under $10 as I recall.