View Full Version : steering stabalizer
doubleup87
October 23rd, 2006, 09:21
i am about to replace my steering stabalizer on my 2000 xj, any thing i should know about before doing it? problems i should avoid?
dj's 2000 xj
October 23rd, 2006, 10:01
I replaced mine this summer since I went to bigger tires. I had never done it or seen it before, wasnt to bad. I took my time, The bolt by the tire side is a little hard to get to, and you may want to use a c clamp to press out the bolt iwth the lock nut. I just knocked mine out with a hammer though :) Quick spray with wd or other lube the day before just for fun.
Rocketman
October 23rd, 2006, 10:05
Pickle fork/tie rod end remover helps speed things up. Make sure you have new hardware for both ends including castle nuts and cotter pins. Have a propane torch ready in case as well.
While down there, check your track bar for tightness at both ends.
doubleup87
October 23rd, 2006, 10:16
i treid using a breaker bar on the nut close to the tire but both the 19mm and 3/4 sockets would strip the nut and 11/16 and 18mm would not fit, i got the nut with the cotter pin off no problem, did that 1st, so i put the nut back on and noticed i could turn my track bar a lil bit, should i tighten it before i take it out again or whut?
chelms27
October 23rd, 2006, 13:11
Just did mine, it was really easy with basic tools.
dj's 2000 xj
October 23rd, 2006, 13:38
I think I used a wrench to turn and socket to hold the 1 by the tire. One of those sizes must be right, IIRCC, maybe the angle was your problem.
JrTxJ
October 23rd, 2006, 14:41
get a 2 jaw puller or tie rod end remover and leave the nut on only loosened, that way you won't destroy the bolt and squash it making it impossible to get through. i needed a breaker bar and the stock tire wrench for torque/leverage because those bolts were tight, and mine is a rust free 2k1.
Trout
October 23rd, 2006, 18:11
I second the 2-jaw puller, but leave the castle nut threaded on a little bit as you tighten the puller.. THere's a lot of force that lets go when that pressed in nut breaks loose. You could end up digging that end of your stabilizer out of your oil pan...
apsdad
October 23rd, 2006, 19:02
The best way to get the tapered studs out was shown to me by my son who spent a couple years in a tire shop. We just did his tie rods on his YJ. Take the castle nut off and put it back on castle end first until the stud is almost all the way through the nut. Then use an air hammer on the nut to push the stud out. Takes about five seconds. No pickle fork or puller needed. and the threads are protected.
Timber
October 23rd, 2006, 22:36
I just put a huge nylon zip tie around the damper and link and tightened it a lot. Then used a pitman arm puller and a 4-way lug wrench for a good grip. Just tightened until it popped. When it lets go, it shoots off--hence the huge zip tie. You might even want to use a leather belt or small ratchet strap instead of the zip tie.
nylyon
October 24th, 2006, 15:28
Did mine this past weekend on my 01, took only about 15 minutes. Cut the cotter pin out, backed out the castle nut, got a bfh and knocked the end out. The axle end came out no problem. I noticed a big difference in the handling with the new stabilizer, feels much tighter.
OjXj
May 31st, 2007, 13:25
Everyone seems to be having problems with the tapered bolt end of the stabilizer but I have a question about the axle end. Will I be able to slide that bolt out far enough to clear the stabilizer and get the stabilizer out or do I need to remove the drag link and tie-rod? It seems the bolt might be too long and I may not be able to slide it out enough to remove the stabilizer..
Stock tie-rod and drag link on RE 5.5
Thanks
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