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3.5 RE lift driveshafts....

C

ChevelleSSLS6

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
So, here I am in the middle of a RE hack-n-tap... hey I'm poor so no hating!
1996 XJ, NP 231, AW4, Dana 35 with stock 3.55s

I've read some threads about the stock XJ front driveshaft not being long enough, so I've thought of using a junkyard ZJ (v8) driveshaft that's supposedly a little longer, or spending next semester's tuition money on a Tom Woods/similar unit (let me know if there's a better price).

So...
Who has a front XJ AW4 driveshaft (did you put new u-joints in it before installing it?) and is running with no/very little vibes?
Who is running a ZJ (v8) front DS with no/very little vibes, and of course did you put new ujoints in it?
And, finally, who has a TW/other driveshaft with similar results. These most likely always come with new ujoints, so no comments needed there.

Thanks,
Matt
p.s. I'm sick of limping around in a FWD Jeep.
 
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IIRC the 35 is not as long as the 8.25, 44, or 8.8. A search should turn up all the info you need....or you could measure the distance from the t-case to the pinion yoke and then measure your front shaft to see if it is long enough.
 
When I did my SYE I cut the output short and have a very short yoke, the stock front shaft works but is maxed out.

I went with a custom HD shaft that was 3-4" longer then the stock shaft, I figure this way i am set if I go taller.

Have you tried putting the front shaft in the rear to see if it will fit? It seems that most people have good luck using the front shafts.
 
I have the 231 with a 8.25, re 3.5 lift.

I used the hack n tap, and a JY front shaft. I replaced all the joints, and got the mounting flange which replaced the old ball in the center on the yoke. It is not maxed out, and I got no vibes with zero shims. Works great.

You should just search around and see if it will fit your 35.

Maybe it's just time to swap a 8.25? :)
 
xjh3 said:
This is what I would do. I have no trust in D35s. You could buy a front driveshaft and an 8.25 for less than you would spend on a Tom Woods shaft.
Click to expand...
This. Front driveshaft = $30 at my local yard, rear axle = $100 if you pull it. Just make sure you get the right gearing.

EDIT: I harp on this all the time... you're in Michigan (same rust belt qualities as mass) - replace your steel brake lines if you replace the axle! Or if you don't! hasta
 
A 8.25 sounds good, but being my only DD I'm short @$$ on time to work on it, it has to be 100% up and running in time for me to go to work. (winter project maybe? I plan on getting a winterbeater car to let the salt eat) As for getting a new shaft isn't a front off a ZJ (v8) about an inch longer, so that'd give me a little more room for it to lengthen when the rear axle droops, right?

kastein said:
This. Front driveshaft = $30 at my local yard, rear axle = $100 if you pull it. Just make sure you get the right gearing.

EDIT: I harp on this all the time... you're in Michigan (same rust belt qualities as mass) - replace your steel brake lines if you replace the axle! Or if you don't! hasta
Click to expand...
I had to cut the original ones out for the RE extended soft line, and I replaced it all the way back to the MC.:spin1: Any ideas how to remove the ancient hardware off the mounting tab on the frame? I HATE driving it with the new soft line/hard line just hanging there off the frame.:nono:
 
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hmmm... I used a pair of channel-locs to pull the clip off and then smacked it around with things until it came loose, you might have better luck with PB-blaster and perhaps a Dremel with a fiber cutoff wheel to loosen things up a little. I was actually talking about the lines on the axle housing itself, but the one on the frame rail is also an excellent one to replace... in fact that one blew up first for me.

I think you're right on the ZJ driveshaft - I know they can be used for a hack-n-tap in an XJ with a manual tranny, which also results in a one or two inch (I think?) longer rear driveshaft.
 
kastein said:
hmmm... I used a pair of channel-locs to pull the clip off and then smacked it around with things until it came loose, you might have better luck with PB-blaster and perhaps a Dremel with a fiber cutoff wheel to loosen things up a little. I was actually talking about the lines on the axle housing itself, but the one on the frame rail is also an excellent one to replace... in fact that one blew up first for me.

I think you're right on the ZJ driveshaft - I know they can be used for a hack-n-tap in an XJ with a manual tranny, which also results in a one or two inch (I think?) longer rear driveshaft.
Click to expand...


Yea, I'll probably try to score a ZJ driveshaft. If possible I'll get a YJ driveshaft as I've heard that they have a flange that bolts right to the SYE... that way I don't have to use 'that funny looking cardin/cv part I got from Napa' (it seriously is funny looking), and I can return it to the tune of about 80 bucks back to me:thumbup:. All else fails, ZJ front ds.

I know I could tackle the 8.25 swap in an afternoon some weekend if this wasn't the rust belt... everything takes about 3x longer as there's always a stuck, broken, or stripped bolt somewhere that's a total pain in the ass. :tears:That'd be so awesome to have a stronger rear... but the d35 has been reliable so far, and hopefully it'll continue to be that way.:roll:
 
fyi, easy way of swapping axles involves an angle grinder with a cutoff disc instead of a wrench :D Then your only worries are the brake lines (all brass-against-steel hardware for the stuff you'll be changing, so it won't seize) e-brake lines (if you get new ones cutting the old ones is no issue!) and the pinion yoke... 5/16" wrench and a little cursing gets that one. I hate rusty U-bolts, and since they stretch when you torque them down you're supposed to replace them anyways. I just cut them in half and watch the pieces go flying.
 
kastein said:
fyi, easy way of swapping axles involves an angle grinder with a cutoff disc instead of a wrench :D Then your only worries are the brake lines (all brass-against-steel hardware for the stuff you'll be changing, so it won't seize) e-brake lines (if you get new ones cutting the old ones is no issue!) and the pinion yoke... 5/16" wrench and a little cursing gets that one. I hate rusty U-bolts, and since they stretch when you torque them down you're supposed to replace them anyways. I just cut them in half and watch the pieces go flying.
Click to expand...

getting old part out of pic-a-part would be a bitch too... no power tools allowed they say.:flamemad: That aside, it'd be easy peasy.:cheers: Maybe they have a small cordless angle grinder/cutoff wheel available somewhere I could sneak in the toolbox...:scottm:
 
haha yeah, sneak in a small cordless angle grinder (just find the biggest toolbox you can and put it in first, bury it with other tools) and you're golden. Also, you'll want help with jacking the junker up and probably with carrying the axle too, so bring a buddy or three...

if you do go this route, look the hell out when you get close to cutting through each bolt. They really let loose when they finally snap, I wouldn't want my face in the way of that. Lean back and you'll be fine.
 
I am also in the process of doing the homebrew hack and tap, using the 3103-27CV from drivelines of fresno, it was only 78 bucks, plus 11 shipping to PA. similar, but differant flange than the RE, but I am using a stck front DS. The shaft I pulled was in good order, as far as the joints are concerned. They are all tight, and no rust by the caps. I cleaned her up well, and painted it, greased all the joints. I willlet you know how that goes, but I don't see a point in replacing the joints, if they seem to be good. That is my 2 cents.. and yes from the research I have done, the ZJ V8 driveshaft does seem to be an inch longer, and should work for your set up..
 
the XJ shaft with new (napa, aka federal mogul (good made in USA greaseable stuff)) ujoints works well...

...now front ujoints on the axle are toast. Replaced one, the 36mm nut is a bitch and a half. Broke a 1/2" drive ratchet on it AFTER pb and heat.
 
I have the RE hack n tap with a front shaft and 8.25. I replaced the u-joints with some from autozone and it's worked great, no vibes at all and I'm at 6" of lift. I have Revolver shackles in the rear and it flexes like crazy and the driveshaft isn't maxed out at full flex, so it's all good. I do carry a spare zj shaft and it does look to be about 1-2" longer.
 
xjnuttier said:
I am also in the process of doing the homebrew hack and tap, using the 3103-27CV from drivelines of fresno, it was only 78 bucks, plus 11 shipping to PA.
Click to expand...

Does anyone know what these came in so one can search for them instead of buying new? Or how to identify one at least?
 
There was a lot of confusion in that thread about whether or not it was even found on that vehicle - Powertrain Industries doesn't have any applications listed other than "Jeep 231 transfer case CV yoke". I think the rumor was a TH400 in some sort of rear wheel drive car, though (I'm a tranny idiot, so this may be wrong) the TH400 has a 32 spline output shaft.
 
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