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what are the chances..?

E

emr1101

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Raleigh, NC
I drove for a good bit, maybe 1000 miles, with this pinion angle...
n1400910184_30063151_822.jpg


It made horrible vibrations, and started leaking BAD. I know I know, it was a bad idea. Anyway, I adjusted my castor so its got the correct angle now, but its still leaking. Its not hooked up right now but that yoke can move a good bit.

I ordered a timken yoke seal for it and im going to replace it, do you think this will fix it so i can connect my shaft again? Basically what im asking is do you think i egged/wallowed out the yoke input? Or is it just the crush sleeve/seal thats ruined? Reallllly hoping i dont need to find another 4.10 front axle :(
 
input yoke?

Is the movement axial or lateral?
If you can move it up and down, you're pinion bearings are probably shot, allowing the movement of the pinion. If it moves in/out, your yoke is not tight, which would allow the pinion to move.

How do the gears look?


The seal will do nothing to fix any movement in the yoke. It will just get destroyed if you don't fix the movement.
 
Well if the yoke is moving than the pinion is loose.And yes since you have a LP D30 you do have a crush sleeve and makes a repair more complicated!
 
Well damn, its going in every direction actually, gears "appear" to be fine though. If I got a bearing and swap that out too, how hard will that be? I feel like maybe i should order a bearing and a lunchbox locker and just do it all at once.
 
RCP Phx said:
Well if the yoke is moving than the pinion is loose.And yes since you have a LP D30 you do have a crush sleeve and makes a repair more complicated!
Click to expand...

I shouldnt have said crush sleeve, i thought it was the HPs with the crush sleeve, my fault. Mine is a high pinion
 
You may need to replace the pinion bearings. The outer may be the only one worn due to the vibrations. If the inner looks good you should be O.K. You will still have to pull the carrier so you might as well do the locker. Remember to replace the bearing race (cup) as well.
 
Alright guys, so it sounds like i should just go ahead and do the bearings too? Where would be a good place to buy em, i was having a little difficulty all i could seem to locate was the yoke seal
 
okay i got the spicer cup and cone for the outer, you guys thikn thats all ill need? plus the yoke seal? the inner cone and cup arent at the parts store and are a lot more $$$ so i think i should be okay. sound good?
 
emr1101 said:
okay i got the spicer cup and cone for the outer, you guys thikn thats all ill need? plus the yoke seal? the inner cone and cup arent at the parts store and are a lot more $$$ so i think i should be okay. sound good?
Click to expand...
As long as there's no pitting on the inner bearing rollers and cup you should be just fine.
 
emr1101 said:
...,this will be my first time getting this deep into a diff...:bawl:
Click to expand...
All of the parts between the bearings are part of the shim stack, put them back in in the exact order you pulled them out, and it should go back together with no problems. Good luck!
 
I just did this, and it really was not that big of a deal. Just be sure and take your time preloading the bearings to spec. As was said before, you should be fine as long as you keep all the shims in the same places.
 
dgrigorenko said:
I just did this, and it really was not that big of a deal. Just be sure and take your time preloading the bearings to spec. As was said before, you should be fine as long as you keep all the shims in the same places.
Click to expand...

woah this sounds complicated, is there a write up? what all parts will i need? this is EMR1101 btw , im just on my buddys account cuz he left it up
 
NVRwheels said:
woah this sounds complicated, is there a write up? what all parts will i need? this is EMR1101 btw , im just on my buddys account cuz he left it up
Click to expand...

when i did it i just replaced the outer pinion bearing and cup. i dont think there is a writeup on this, but it was pretty straight forward.

basically you need to take out your axle shafts so you can pull your front end gears out (very carefully so that you dont mix up any of the gear shims). then take out the pinion (also carefully so you dont mess up the preload shims). you will need a bearing puller to get the cup and seal out, then put the new bearings back in and button it up...

the preload on the pinion nut is very important though... you need to torque it to 210 ft/lbs, and then check the rotational resistance... you are looking for 6in/lbs of resistance. if you have less than this then keep torquing the pinion nut to get it there. if you have too much then you need to add a preload shim.

basically you need to be careful when torquing the preload nut, and not overtighten it.

it outlines this procedure very well in the FSM... that is how i figured it out
 
dgrigorenko said:
when i did it i just replaced the outer pinion bearing and cup. i dont think there is a writeup on this, but it was pretty straight forward.

basically you need to take out your axle shafts so you can pull your front end gears out (very carefully so that you dont mix up any of the gear shims). then take out the pinion (also carefully so you dont mess up the preload shims). you will need a bearing puller to get the cup and seal out, then put the new bearings back in and button it up...

the preload on the pinion nut is very important though... you need to torque it to 210 ft/lbs, and then check the rotational resistance... you are looking for 6in/lbs of resistance. if you have less than this then keep torquing the pinion nut to get it there. if you have too much then you need to add a preload shim.

basically you need to be careful when torquing the preload nut, and not overtighten it.

it outlines this procedure very well in the FSM... that is how i figured it out
Click to expand...

holy t1ts. this sounds fun already. thanks for the advice, sounds like im going to just need a bearing puller? no case spreader or calipers or dials or any of that stuff?
 
I didn't need any of those things. I unbolted my carrier retaining brackets And it all came right out(be careful with these bolts not to strip them). I have heard of people needing to pry a little but nothing crazy. It's not as bad as it sounds, and very doable.
 
dgrigorenko said:
I didn't need any of those things. I unbolted my carrier retaining brackets And it all came right out(be careful with these bolts not to strip them). I have heard of people needing to pry a little but nothing crazy. It's not as bad as it sounds, and very doable.
Click to expand...

yeah i unbolted the carrier straps, and its all very loose now, only the axle shafts are holding it all in place.
 
i got the carrier out, but guess what: NO SHIMs! Is this odd? My friend thinks theyre on the inside of the carrier bearings, but i dont need to remove those. So am i good?

Questio 2, can i go ahead and pull the pinion out or will it have shims in there i need to be ware of?'

Also i didnt match the posiition of the pinion to the ring gear, i didnt see why it would matter (plus i was over excited). Is this bad?
 
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