• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Broken Yoke bold

C

ChuckstrPT

NAXJA Member #791
Location
Birmingham, Alabama
So I broke a bolt off in my front axle yoke....and broke off 2 "EZ out" type tools in the broken bolt trying to get it out....any ideas??
DSC04155.jpg
 
How good of a welder are you? This rarely works on stuck bolts, but work great on ones that were broken off while over tightening. Here is the procedure: find a nut that would thread on to the bolt if the bolt was sticking out, set that over the broken bolt and weld it to the broken bolt, being careful not to weld to the yoke. Once it cools normally then heat the yoke slightly, being careful not to damage the seal. Then try to remove the broken bolt. If that doesn't work then it is probably time for a new yoke. Most of the machine shops in my area won't even look at it once you have broken an easy out in it.
 
have you tried those drill bits use to get broken bolts out? get a real skinnny drill bit drill it into the screw then use a small extractor and screw it into the hole you just made thus everytime you screw the bolt comes out more and more
I have never actually done it myself but its always been suggested to me
 
I had the same problem on my rear yoke, and I just drilled the bolt and all three other holes out (5/16" bit I think?), and am running the ford u-bolt style straps that have the same spacing (a few bucks each at the parts store). I think the hole spacing front and rear is the same, at least on mine, but I'd take one of your current straps to the parts store and check.

Another option is to drill out all the holes, and use the stock straps, but run new bolts all the way though and put nuts on the backside, my friend just did this on his Blazer because the yoke was too long for the u-bolts straps. We just did that though, so can't say on the reliability yet, but should be fine.
 
SINCITY192 said:
have you tried those drill bits use to get broken bolts out? get a real skinnny drill bit drill it into the screw then use a small extractor and screw it into the hole you just made thus everytime you screw the bolt comes out more and more
I have never actually done it myself but its always been suggested to me
Click to expand...

That's what I broke off in the broken off bolt....and I think they are hardened steel....real hard to drill through.:tear:
 
If you can get the strap off (more than likely destroying it with a hacksaw, or something similar) there should be enough of the bolt sticking out to twist with some vgrips.


Steve
 
The picture shows the strap is already off - and it looks like the bolt is way too short to grab with anything.

I'd personally try using a dremel cutoff disc to put a notch across the end of the stub, then use a flat blade screwdriver - I don't recall those bolts being in all that tight honestly. I believe specced torque is 17 or 20 ft-lbs, I only needed a couple fingers on my 5/16 flat wrench to "crack the seal" and get mine started moving.

You could also try heating it up with something and then cooling it, but I'd be looking for a new yoke around now.

EDIT: just noticed the holes are through drilled, have you tried using a punch to pound on the ends of the bolt alternately and then turning the stub somehow? That might break it free a bit.
 
Nothing sticking out to grab.
Drilled #1....broke of the EZ out in it....
Drilled #2 and #3...tried to tap it around, no move, Broke EZ #2 in it
Still nothing sticking out to grab
Tried turning a bolt in from the back side...not successful
Have obtained new Yoke....
Now have to go get a 1 1/8th socket.................
already have a puller, and another bolt.
:(
 
ChuckstrPT said:
Have obtained new Yoke....
Now have to go get a 1 1/8th socket.................
already have a puller, and another bolt.
:(
Click to expand...
What are you going to do about setting up the pinion pre-load since yours uses a crush sleeve?
 
RCP Phx said:
What are you going to do about setting up the pinion pre-load since yours uses a crush sleeve?
Click to expand...

From what I've read...with the wheels/brakes on....just mark the nut and threads...and put it back where I found it.....:scared:
 
ChuckstrPT said:
From what I've read...with the wheels/brakes on....just mark the nut and threads...and put it back where I found it.....:scared:
Click to expand...

Good luck with that one!
 
ChuckstrPT said:
From what I've read...with the wheels/brakes on....just mark the nut and threads...and put it back where I found it.....:scared:
Click to expand...

That might work if you're replacing the pinion seal and putting the same yoke back on. I've done it a few times with no ill effect. It aint going to work if you're replacing the yoke though. I vote for drilling and using bolt/nut or convert to the Ford (?) style straps.
 
I did it when I was young and foolish, did not even torque it or mark it. I took the yolk off, installed the new one, and hung on the breaker bar to tighten the nut back up. Eventually when it breaks I will do it right, but 7 years later it is still going great.
 
wolfpackjeeper said:
I did it when I was young and foolish, did not even torque it or mark it. I took the yolk off, installed the new one, and hung on the breaker bar to tighten the nut back up. Eventually when it breaks I will do it right, but 7 years later it is still going great.
Click to expand...

Be careful when installing those eggs, they break easy! :spin1::laugh:
 
nothing wrong with counting the threads and doing it that way

ive did it on my old 8.25 when i blew up a yoke, and 2 other 8.25s. i was going to recommend pulling the yoke and drilling it out from the other end. and then running u-bolt straps, which work better anyways

since you have a new yoke though, just count/mark the threads, and then give it 1/8 of a turn after you get it back to that spot. all 3 8.25s ive done this with have worked find for years, and thousands of miles with no problems. just dont go hitting it with an impact wrench or anything
 
The crush sleeve is already crushed and set to the right thickness and hence bearing preload. You're not going to change that unless you exceed the torque needed to crush the sleeve further. So you really only need enough torque on the bolt to keep things tight.
 
wolfpackjeeper said:
I did it when I was young and foolish, did not even torque it or mark it. I took the yolk off, installed the new one, and hung on the breaker bar to tighten the nut back up. Eventually when it breaks I will do it right, but 7 years later it is still going great.
Click to expand...

That's good to hear! Well...can't drill it out, broke off 2 hardened steel EZ outs in it. But, I got it replaced much easier than I thought. Soaked in PB the night before....the impact gun took it right off. And, Suprise....the Yoke came right off by hand! put the new one on. Gunned it down lightly, got the marks close, then put my biggest torque wrench on it, just to make sure it is over 150ft/lbs...and under the truck...it was not easy to get enough leverage, but it is deffinately over 150. It survived the day on a muddy trail today, but I haven't gotten back underneath yet.
Now that I have time (trail ride over), what is the recommended tech to get this correct, if I've missed the mark by that much?
Thanks:cheers:
 
oops. I missed the second page, and the last 3 posts....so maybe I'm okay with what I've got going on.......kewl.:cheers:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Bobthejeep
need help replacing shocks
Replies
2
Views
71
kiricowell
K
M
92 XJ ECU connector
Replies
5
Views
138
Rob Mayercik
R
Z
doorman 800-714 alternative
Replies
5
Views
148
Z.m4v
Z
M
Steering wheel stuck after sitting outside a few days
Replies
2
Views
1K
maxbraketorque
M
R
Daystar transmission mount
Replies
5
Views
1K
Rotorwash
R
Back
Top