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Duralast BWP-724 Water Pump

R

roboter

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Loomis California
I did not look for the "R" on the back of this pump when I installed it. I'm hoping it's the right one with reverse rotation? Installed pump and a new stock Tstat. Jeep idles cool, all day; mid range on the gage. As soon as I drive it, the temp needle is in the red zone. If I turn the heater on before I drive, temp stays around mid range. I burped it but I'm guessing I did not do a very good job. Any ideas greatly appreciated. Thanks guys.
 
Year/engine?
 
That is the correct part number, per AZ website.

Your 1992 should be an open system, so it is self-burping. However, park it nose up with the radiator cap as the highest point and let it warm up fully, with the heater on, and then let it cool down. Make sure the recovery bottle stays at the correct level. That should help get any further air out.

When it heats up to the red while driving--what kind of driving? Stop and go, city, or highway speeds?
 
Sorry about the fan clutch. Are you going to do the ZJ HD upgrade? NAPA part number 272310, $44, direct fit. Moves one hell of a lot more air.
 
Will that work on a Renix?
 
I've been running the AutoZone water pump since 2006, it is still working fine, bearing is ok too, I'm suprised.

I had a problem similar to you though with the temp issue. I was using a 2 core AutoZone radiator. Aluminum with plastic tanks. It worked fine for about a half year and then all of a sudden I would always be in the red zone even when cruising normally. I never lost any coolant though, somehow the temp was in the red but the coolant never boiled over.

I think there was some sort of pressure leak with the AutoZone (junk) radiator, but small enough where I never lost any coolant!

I went to a 3 row all metal CSF radiator and never looked back, never had the problem since either.

Literally, with the AutoZone radiator, I'd be cruising along on the highway at 70mph and the temp needle would be in the red. That's nuts and unheard of!
 
xjtrailrider said:
Dude, its a 92. 16 years on the original fan clutch is pretty darn good. Fix it and drive it another 16 years.
Click to expand...

Yea I know dude. She's been a good Jeep but I'm just kinda burnt out because the week "vacation" I took seems was fixing everything that wore out/broke during the last 16 years. :hang:



rant off
 
I am replacing a 2 year old water pump from autozone already on my 89 XJ.

I am not sure which one I bought last time, but I know it was new, not rebuilt. It looks just like the Duralast BWP-724 I just installed. BUT!!!!!:mad:


But they changed the bloody screws on the face that holds the pulley on from US threads to metric I think. My old screws are no longer the right thread!!!! Screw*d again!

I had to send someone out to hunt for the right thread bolts for this damn pump!!!! @#$*#&@%^$!:mad:

So far this new year s*cks!

Seems they have dropped the separate 87-90 water pump with the old threads? Least they could have done was warn me about the thread change and need for new bolts!

2 year old pump that the bearing died on has AM8 2 GMB Japan stamped on the face.
 
Last edited:
Yeah, and you will find the bleeder screws in the Duralast wheel cylinders have suddenly changed to metric too.
 
joe_peters said:
Yeah, and you will find the bleeder screws in the Duralast wheel cylinders have suddenly changed to metric too.
Click to expand...

Now that you mention it, I have run into that too.
 
Other than belts that are too tight, what else damages a good water pump bearing? Are they sealed? What kind of bearings do they use? Is the shaft seal before the bearing, and if the shaft seal leaks a little it takes out the bearing, just before the leak gets big enough to see? I have yet to gut one, to see how they are built. But 2-3 years life is just plain BS! I usually get 20 years out of water pumps!
 
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