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Why do track bar relo brackets suck so badly?

X

X-defector

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Parker CO
In my BB quest, I looked at using a track bar relo bracket for my 3" lift. Specifically, the Skyjacker JTBF axle-end bracket for 2-4" of lift. The bracket seems pretty low profile and shouldn't alter the drag link/track bar geometry much.

I've yet to hear one good thing about track bar relo brackets, especially the Skyjacker one. But no one has really said exactly why they believe they suck so badly.

So what exactly sucks so much about relo brackets?
 
I wouldn't bother with an axle end trackbar relocation bracket for no reason other than "what is the point of it if it doesn't mess with angles?".

Answer me that and then maybe I can help you out.

Got a link/pic?
 
http://www.skyjacker.com/products/products_search/detail/?id=108749

JTBF.jpg
 
its mostly meant to let you use your stock trac bar with a 4" lift and under. with the stock trac bar that is to short for that height. so with that bracket you can lower the mounting location and run a stock tracbar. also keeps your trac bar from hitting the mount.




if that made any sense...
 
Believe me, I know exactly what it does and how it works. I'm asking why they are held in such low esteem. Everyone seems to say they suck, but don't elaborate.

I have a high-buck Poly Performance kit on my JK with axle-end track bar relocation brackets and that setup is rock-solid and absolutely reliable. I know they are different vehicles and designs, just want to know why everyone says XJ relo brackets stink!
 
Look at the stock joint on the frame side of the trackbar. It's a TRE. It has limited travel, and it's mounted in single shear. It's a weak setup when you lift your XJ as the TRE will max out sooner during articulation and potentially break.

Why would you want to keep that? Either fab or buy a frame side mount with joints (Currie JJs, heims, RE SF, etc) in double shear on either side of the trackbar. It's impossible to then max out the travel of the joints.

Don't get me wrong, I ran a stock track bar on an RE 3.5" lift and just drilled the axle side hole over to realign the axle. I never did any hard rock crawling then, but it held up ok.
 
Drop the dough and get a new track bar. Iron rock, rubicon express and jks make good ones. And having an adjustable bar adds a new dimension of tunability... with my RE 3.5 kit I couldn't get the sway bar disconnects to line up because they were so off center.
 
Now we're getting somewhere! I take it some blue Loctite isn't quite enough to do the trick then, eh? Maybe I can use this as an excuse to buy a welder and learn how....how hard can tack welding be???:gee:

So is that the crux of the suckiness? Nothing related to driving quality or bumpsteer or what have you?
 
X-defector said:
Now we're getting somewhere! I take it some blue Loctite isn't quite enough to do the trick then, eh? Maybe I can use this as an excuse to buy a welder and learn how....how hard can tack welding be???:gee:

So is that the crux of the suckiness? Nothing related to driving quality or bumpsteer or what have you?
Click to expand...

As long as the geometry (angle and length) of the draglink/trackbar are close to the same, you should be fine.

It's mostly the stock trackbar itself that is worth getting rid of as soon as you can if you plan on lifting it, not necessarily the quality of the relocation bracket.
 
The underlying problem is that the method for mounting a track bar is marginal at best due to the limitations of the XJ mounting location. You are bolting something with a considerable amount of force to a piece of sheetmetal. Things move, things flex. When things move and things flex, bolts loosen and metal fatigues. I have seen cracks in almost everybody's track bars at least once. Its the same problem you have with the steering box mounting. The constant flexing work hardens the frame metal to the point where it cracks. The plate spreads the load around.
 
Why on earth would you change the stock axle end track bar bracket with a stock steering setup? The only problem with it is that the bracket is pretty low and hits rocks and stuff. Nobody likes the skyjacker bracket because it isn't needed. Get an RE1660 and call it a day.
 
*CLUNK*

That is all.. :D

But in all honestly I have run one for years and it has held up OK. Never any major complaints but never any hard wheeling. The rig is off the road in rebuild status now, and before it goes back on the road the relocation bracket will disappear (or shortly after since I'm itching to drive her again)
 
Okay, confession time....

My budget build, and hence questions about the relo bracket, aren't because I'm short on cash. It's because my main wheeling rig is a beastly built JK that gets 99% of its street time on the way to and from the trail.

XJ goals - more ride height for both cosmetic and functional purposes. It's my DD. Functionally I want more snow clearance, better visibility and yes it will go on the occasional mild to moderate wheeling trail. So it doesn't need to be a stellar build and rock-proof, just needs to be reasonably well-mannered and I don't want to pour a bunch of money in for an occasional off-road trip (that's what my JK is for!). So now you know why I ask....
 
You have a JK for the trail and an XJ for a DD?

That seems backwards to me...

Anyway, I wouldn't bother with the relocation bracket if it's just a DD. Redrill the mount over if you haven't already to center the axle and be done with it. If the hole wallows out (which it shouldn't with road driving) then plate it.
 
MoparManiac said:
You have a JK for the trail and an XJ for a DD?

That seems backwards to me...

Anyway, I wouldn't bother with the relocation bracket if it's just a DD. Redrill the mount over if you haven't already to center the axle and be done with it. If the hole wallows out (which it shouldn't with road driving) then plate it.
Click to expand...


x2 to what he said.
 
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