advice on my plans to fit 35s?

Greetings!
After searching the past several days for many hours online I haven't found any solid advice about the path i wish to take from this point forward. lots of conflicting information and varying opinions. I have several concerns to address at once so I'll just ask this fine community here for your thoughts.

i started my xj project two years ago and performed some basic initial modifications and installed a lift kit. this is my DD and i am pretty financially limited so i installed the 3.5 RE SF kit from 4ws.com. however they must have sent me the 4.5" leaf pack as my rear went WAY up due to the nature of RE leaf packs coupled with the extended shackles that was already on my vehicle when i bought it (the stock pack was completely flat and i assume the previous owner put the shackles on to clear the 30in tires on it) . I installed 2" coil spacers for the front to help level it out. 2" were the biggest i could find at that time and i was counting on the leafs settling down after a while. its currently sitting level. the lift overall is about 5.5inches.. which looks quite funny with only 30in tires.. will look even funnier when i trim fenders.

specs:
92 4.0HO AW4 242 with HD modified output shaft, CV rear driveshaft
27 spline 8.25 rear with 3.55 gears. open diffs

the other day i fit up my brothers spare 33in cooper stt in a front fender and was amazed how little modifying it would take to run those on the trail. i was thinking i could fit 35's after trimming the fenders a good deal. my main question is this: you think i can run 35s effectively with the following modifications? the area where i live has moderate mountainous wheeling, occasional patch of rocks.

29 spline alloy axles for rear (does anybody make higher spline counts for 8.25? or is 29 the largest dia. that will fit? I did not stumble across that info in my searches)
4.56 gears
30 spline alloys in the front, spicer 760 u-joints
HD steering upgrade kit
LCA drop brackets
aftermarket tranny cooler
If possible i want to put a no-slip in the rear.. is why i want to use alloy shafts instead of just a swap to 29s.

is it a bad idea to wheel 35s on short arms?
would the driveline upgrades be strong enough to accommodate the locker? (keep in mind i'm no hard core rock crawler)

I'm essentially trying to avoid putting an entirely new long-arm lift kit on. not really looking to drop that kinda green. would prefer to keep current parts with the exception of the coils.. i have RE 5.5" coils on the way so i can get rid of the spacers i put on.

I hope i have provided enough info!

I have 35's on my 99 with a 6.5" lift. Fenders are trimmed, 4.56 gears and a ford 8.8, sye & cv ds, stock steering, hd track bar and brace. I also have large bumpstops because even with my lift, tires rub when flexed. I run short arms and it rides very rough. The are custom for my lift, but are at an extreme angle. I have drop brackets on my other 92 xj and will swapping them to my 99 when I get some time.

35's are large and take a toll on your rig. Mine is a dd also and it is can get annoying with the rough ride. Good luck.

I think there's nothing wrong or better than 33's as a dual purpose rig.

I think a locked XJ on 33's that is reliable and driven to the trail head has earned lots of respect in my book.

Trailer Queens can be lots of fun, and you can beat on them like no tomorrow but I respect the people that drive to the trail head and are willing to wager the ride to work on Monday morning.

If trimmed and bumpstopped properly you will be able to get away with it. I plan on jumping to 35's here in the next 6 months. Remember your suspension can still travel if you bumpstp but limit it coming up and let it drop as far as you can

I'd go 33. Unless you really just want 35's because they're 35's.

A locked rig on 31's with a great driver can make it through the rubicon. (rocknxj)

So even if you are only a decent driver, 33's will look awesome, wheel great, and still be comfortable on the street.

def.ho said:

Greetings!
you think i can run 35s effectively with the following modifications? the area where i live has moderate mountainous wheeling, occasional patch of rocks.

29 spline alloy axles for rear (does anybody make higher spline counts for 8.25? or is 29 the largest dia. that will fit? I did not stumble across that info in my searches)
4.56 gears
30 spline alloys in the front, spicer 760 u-joints
HD steering upgrade kit
LCA drop brackets
aftermarket tranny cooler
If possible i want to put a no-slip in the rear.. is why i want to use alloy shafts instead of just a swap to 29s.

is it a bad idea to wheel 35s on short arms?
would the driveline upgrades be strong enough to accommodate the locker? (keep in mind i'm no hard core rock crawler)

I'm essentially trying to avoid putting an entirely new long-arm lift kit on. not really looking to drop that kinda green. would prefer to keep current parts with the exception of the coils.. i have RE 5.5" coils on the way so i can get rid of the spacers i put on.

I hope i have provided enough info!

Click to expand...

I think you will be O.K with the mods you listed. You'd probably be better off sticking with 29 spline alloys forthe rear and an Aussie locker. 35's will be fine on short arms as long as you have the drop brackets. Alloys at both ends will accomodate the lockers. I didn't see any mention of track bar, you will want an adjustable heavy duty unit if you don't already have one.

I'd skip the 30 spline upgrade up front as you've basically moved the weak link to the R&P, run stock shafts for a little while and see what your wheeling style demands. I never broke a stock shaft ground out for full circle clips and 760s when I had my D30 and 35s, it went right to the ring gear (4.88s, lockrite). Definitely get a full-case locker up front through (detroit, ARB, OX, etc.) as the stock carrier will get flex / fail with 35s if you beat on it.

Keep in mind, if you start dumping a lot of money into a D30, you can build a similarly priced D44 and be nearly bulletproof on 35s. I run a HP44 narrowed to waggy width with stock shafts ground out for full circle clips and 760s and I've pounded on it mercilessly for the past couple months with no breakage whatsoever.

There are many benefits to a D44 over a D30, but I won't turn this into that debate.

98XJRC said:

If trimmed and bumpstopped properly you will be able to get away with it. I plan on jumping to 35's here in the next 6 months. Remember your suspension can still travel if you bumpstp but limit it coming up and let it drop as far as you can

Click to expand...

that's what im hoping to do.. researching led me to believe the dropped LCA were essential for this tire size.. otherwise i wouldn't have any downward flex at all due to my lca's currently position. its bad. like 45 degree angle on a level surface. not far until it binds.

jeeperjohn said:

I didn't see any mention of track bar, you will want an adjustable heavy duty unit if you don't already have one.

Click to expand...

this was one of the first things i had to do once i got the vehicle somewhat levelled out. my passenger-side tire was basically in front of the driver! ok that was exaggerated a bit but you get the point. i got the adjustable one from RE with the sf joint.. the thing is beefy and pulled that axle back where it supposed to be.

MoparManiac said:

I'd skip the 30 spline upgrade up front as you've basically moved the weak link to the R&P, run stock shafts for a little while and see what your wheeling style demands. I never broke a stock shaft ground out for full circle clips and 760s when I had my D30 and 35s, it went right to the ring gear (4.88s, lockrite). Definitely get a full-case locker up front through (detroit, ARB, OX, etc.) as the stock carrier will get flex / fail with 35s if you beat on it.

Keep in mind, if you start dumping a lot of money into a D30, you can build a similarly priced D44 and be nearly bulletproof on 35s. I run a HP44 narrowed to waggy width with stock shafts ground out for full circle clips and 760s and I've pounded on it mercilessly for the past couple months with no breakage whatsoever.

There are many benefits to a D44 over a D30, but I won't turn this into that debate.

Click to expand...

now that you mention it, i probably can run stock axles in the front until i get a locker for it.. but the locker cannot be a automatic or limited slip diff as my t-case is a 242 with the full-time feature. i was reading that the full-time mode of the transfer case fights with automatic-style lockers in the front and things get ugly. i like my full-time feature ESPECIALLY when the snow and ice comes to visit my roads. was thinking of cable-engaged locker like an OX up front when the need arises. unless there is a cheaper manual alternative i'm not aware of.
so in that sense i could save money by not upgrading the axles and just getting some good quality 4.56s and carrier?

If I was going to build a D30 again (without considering a D44...) doing only what I thought was necessary to run 35s...

Yukon 4.56s
ARB
Ruffstuff cover with countersunk bolts
stock shafts/760s (with spares) ground out for full circle clips. If they start grenading often, get some 27-spline alloys.
WJ knuckles with JKS tie rod/stock WJ TREs with a custom draglink using GM TREs.
Homebuilt truss / gusseted knuckles / plated LCA mounts.

I would think at that point the weak link would be in the shafts, and if you got 27-spline alloys with 760s I would think you'd be hard pressed to blow up the diff.

It would tough to resist the 4.88s though...

This is all just my opinion from my own experiences. So take it FWIW.

4.88 would be nice. but the chrysler rear limits me to 4.56s :*(

certainly does not. there are 4.88's available for it

1990JEEPXJ said:

certainly does not. there are 4.88's available for it

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for real? that's great news. i must have read bad information. in more than one place it was said 4.56 is the largest gears that will fit in 8.25. is there a case difference between the earlier 8.25 and 96+ 8.25? anyway i'd love to put 4.88 in

def.ho said:

now that you mention it, i probably can run stock axles in the front until i get a locker for it.. but the locker cannot be a automatic or limited slip diff as my t-case is a 242 with the full-time feature. i was reading that the full-time mode of the transfer case fights with automatic-style lockers in the front and things get ugly.

Click to expand...

The full time feature of a NP242 will not cause it to get ugly since the front shafts are getting no power when selected in 2wd. The auto lockers such as a lock-rite or whatever only lock up when power is sent to them. I see no reason a 242 limits you from running a lock-rite, it is the locker I plan on buying sooner than later.

the 242 doesnt limit the locker, the locker limits the 242

def.ho said:

for real? that's great news. i must have read bad information. in more than one place it was said 4.56 is the largest gears that will fit in 8.25. is there a case difference between the earlier 8.25 and 96+ 8.25? anyway i'd love to put 4.88 in

Click to expand...

I would only go 4.88s in a D30 with a full case locker.

This was with a stock carrier, 4.88s, and a lockrite. There was .020" runout on the carrier where the gears broke.

srmitchell said:

I'd go 33. Unless you really just want 35's because they're 35's.

A locked rig on 31's with a great driver can make it through the rubicon. (rocknxj)

So even if you are only a decent driver, 33's will look awesome, wheel great, and still be comfortable on the street.

Click to expand...

I agree! My brother's rubi has 33 STT's on it and he can go pretty much anywhere! but 35s can do even more, and if i can fit and utilize them effectively w/o going over my budget, why not?

SeeJay said:

The full time feature of a NP242 will not cause it to get ugly since the front shafts are getting no power when selected in 2wd. The auto lockers such as a lock-rite or whatever only lock up when power is sent to them. I see no reason a 242 limits you from running a lock-rite, it is the locker I plan on buying sooner than later.

Click to expand...

true, the shafts are getting no power in 2wd, they ARE getting power however in full-time mode (full-time is not 2wd, the front driveline is engaged. the 231's don't have this feature). and due to the nature of how the 242 operates in full-time mode. it will cause problems with automatic lockers. you'd need a manual locker up front and have it disengaged to avoid these problems in full-time 4wd. the front tires are allowed to differentiate, and under power the autolockers would fight that. at least this how i understand it.. please correct me if i'm wrong!