Need installation instructions for D35 c-clip Lock-Right

[twcguy]

I am putting my Lock-Right into the back of my 1997 D35 Cherokee today. Does anyone know if this guy is right in that you have to leave the spacers out?

http://members.tripod.com/Jeep_n_John/locker.html

I am trying to install this without the instructions. I did the D30 front last week with no problems. Any tips or instructions will be useful. A quick reply would also be appreciated!!

Josh H

BTW I have seen this site:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/ZJ_D35_LR/

[twcguy]

C'mon. Someone knows. It is in my garage right now...


TTT

Josh

[Ghost]

And I have always left them in. But mine is a NON C-CLIP axle. I also do not have the bolt but a roll pin holding the cross shaft in. What gears are you running? I was thinking of putting a lock right in my front but the cross shaft will not come out without removing the ring gear. Did you have to remove the ring gear to install your front 30 lock right?

[twcguy]

With the stock 3.55 gears I had to remove the ring gear but it was pretty easy. As long as you put everything back in the way it came out you will be all right. Just mark the parts with white-out, it makes it alot easier.

Josh H

[JnJ]

Originally posted by twcguy
I am putting my Lock-Right into the back of my 1997 D35 Cherokee today. Does anyone know if this guy is right in that you have to leave the spacers out?

http://members.tripod.com/Jeep_n_John/locker.html

I am trying to install this without the instructions. I did the D30 front last week with no problems. Any tips or instructions will be useful. A quick reply would also be appreciated!!

Josh H

BTW I have seen this site:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/ZJ_D35_LR/
Well since I'm "This Guy", :) I'll reply, that was in a 90 XJ and I ran it for about 3 years like that and sold it (axle and all) and to my knowledge, it is still working. It was install correctly. I have installed others since, and they have all went in that way. Maybe your 97 is different, but they would not fit, that should be a clue that they don't belong. Good luck.

[twcguy]

Hey, thanks for chiming in JnJ!


This axle had a tracklock so I used those spacers facing into the axle tubes as the 2 splined pieces had nothing to rest on otherwise. I hope this is right.

I put it all together, but now I have about 1/4 or more play in and out on the axle before it hits the C-clip. Is that a "normal" amount of play, or should it be pretty tight? I do not want to lose an axle.

Does anyone have the install instructions? I really could use some help here!


Josh H

[twcguy]

Need help quick if you can guys. I am in the garage right now!

Josh

[twcguy]

Still need help. It's getting dark now.


Josh

[twcguy]

The part # is 2311S2. Will this not fit a Jeep that came with a factory trak-lok?

Josh

[RCP Phx]

You may have a problem there,they list a different part # for the No-slip in a Trac-lok carrier,they dont even list a Lock-right for a trac-lok carrier!

[twcguy]

On the powertrax application guide:

http://www.powertrax.com/jeep1lr.pdf

It says notes for 2311S2 are "Trak-lok standard". Not sure if that means it will work or not.

Josh

[RCP Phx]

I hate when manufacturers do this:
www.powertrax.com/jeep1ns.pdf

[twcguy]

Thanks, but that is the application guide for the No-Slip. I have a lock-right.

I am trying to put the old trak-lok back together for now.

I am still surprised no one knows the answer though. I can get it all together but I just have a 1/4" play side to side on each axle. How much play is normal?

Josh

[RCP Phx]

Well if a #35 is #35 then whats the difference? Is this end play with the crosspin installed??

[twcguy]

Yeah, there is a 1/4 endplay before it hits the c-clip, with the pin installed. I am assuming that that is too much.

Also. I so not see on the chart where it says it will not work in a Trak-lok axle. It just says trak-lok standard.

I appreciate the help!

Josh

[RCP Phx]

Thats to much end play.Did the "Go/No-go" gauge check out?

[twcguy]

What is the "Go/No-go" gauge?

I am mostly trying to get the old trak-lok back in right now.

You have to reset the gears if you remove the carrier, right?

Josh

[KY Chris]

NO reset of the gears is necessary for a lock rite, ever. You haven't changed anything in the gear set up. The lock rite is a lunch box locker, so no change in gear backlash in an open carrier. Does that make sense? I don't know what the trac lock looks like on the inside, but you should be able to put it back inside the carrierand be ok.
check your pm if you are still messing with it and you can call me. I'll try and make more sense.?

[twcguy]

Thanks for the offer KY Chris, but I am trying to reinstall the trak-lok into the carrier, not the lockright.

I was able to get a lockright into the front D30 easily enough, but I am afraid part # 2311S2 will not fit a D35 with a trak-lok.

I did just now get the Trak-lok back in (1am) but I have a feeling I will need to start saving for a new axle. I just need to get a couple hundred miles out of this one...

Josh

[JnJ]

Been a while since I messed with the D35 and lockright, but when I was messing with them, no lockright worked with the factory trak-lok, the only "lunch box locker" that would work with the trac-lok carrier was the no slip. Call them and see.
BTW, the movement of the axle in and out "play" seems about right.

[twcguy]

Thanks for all the help, everyone. As it stands now, I have a Lincoln locker in the back, the factory trak-lok is not that easy to get the old gears back into.

I need to buy the carrier from a 1994-1997 D35 without trak-lok and then install the locker and reset the gears.

Anyone in the San Diego area have a Dial indicator?

Josh

[Renegade Jpr]

I dident read all the post so I dont know if this has been said, but you can not install a Lock-Right in a track-lock carrier, they dont make one for that application.

Oh...and you welded the D35 spiders?(Lincoln locker) That D35 is going to go SNAP!

[twcguy]

Yeah, its going to snap.

I just need to get a few street miles out of it.

Right now I am looking for a new non traklok carrier to replace mine.

All I need is the carrier right? You can reuse the old ring gear?

After I get that I just need someone to reset the gears, I think...

JOsh

[Fullsizexj]

all you will need is the open carrier, main berings and shims to set it up and the side gear "thrust washers", not the gears so as to end the confusion before it starts and then you will have to setup the rear end again

[Ghost]

I've got an open carrier I'll sell you. It's a non C-clip axle. I don't know if it matters or not.

[twcguy]

Fullsize -

Where is a good place to get the main bearings, shims and thrust washers?

Why new bearings?

This is turning into a major PITA.

Josh

[twcguy]

I think I need the c-clip version so that I can get this stupid lock-right into it after it is all said and done.

Thanks for the offer though!

Josh

[Fullsizexj]

If you are putting in a new carrier, your best bet is to buy a comlete one that has everything in it because it will come with all the bearings thrust washers and shims and gears which you won't need, it is actually cheaper to buy it that way than to buy just the carrier and an install kit. As far as where to buy, I always just go over to Coast driveline because it is close and he always has it in stock, but I am sure you could find it on line fairly cheap. Someone here should know of someplace

[twcguy]

I am thinking about just selling the lock-right and going to an 8.25 axle. If I have to go through all the time and expense to get the D35 redone, I may as well buy a used 8.25 and have somewhat of an "upgrade" however slight.

Josh