upper control arms

I was having a problem with my np231 front output seal wearing out and I believe I will solve it with the Rusty's upper control arms I just ordered. When i put the RE lift on originally I borrowed clamshell coil spring compressors from a friend. This time I'm just touching the upper CAs. Is there any way to do this without taking out the coils?

Also, I've had some issues with loose/wobbly/sloppy steering. I replaced the trac bar and recented the axle. I've been told this can be play in the tie rod ends. Does this sound right? I get about 30 degrees of play in my steering wheel making it difficult to drive for long highway trips. COuld it be pitman arm, steering stabilizer, or knuckle issues? Any ideas would help. thanks.

Pete

1995 XJ 4 door, 4.0 Liter, I-6. 4.75 inches lift (Rubicon Express/Rusty's spacers/shackles). trimmed fenders, 33" Goodyear MTR. Rear SYE heavy duty from AA. Rear Woody driveshaft. Stock front driveshaft.

pwa2 said:

I was having a problem with my np231 front output seal wearing out and I believe I will solve it with the Rusty's upper control arms I just ordered. When i put the RE lift on originally I borrowed clamshell coil spring compressors from a friend. This time I'm just touching the upper CAs. Is there any way to do this without taking out the coils?

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Neither the UCA or LCAs require you to remove the springs. They are bolt on. Other than getting the bolts loose, the only thing you need to worry about is the axle rotating on you. Get an 18" or 24" pipe wrench which make rotating the axle easy when installing the CAs.

Also, I've had some issues with loose/wobbly/sloppy steering. I replaced the trac bar and recented the axle. I've been told this can be play in the tie rod ends. Does this sound right? I get about 30 degrees of play in my steering wheel making it difficult to drive for long highway trips. COuld it be pitman arm, steering stabilizer, or knuckle issues?

Click to expand...

If you have that much play in your tie rods it should be able to see the movement. It's possible you could have a cumulative effect of many parts being worn, or you may have a worn steering box. If you don't know how to check these yourself, take it to a front end specialist and ask for a front end evaluation. Most places will do it for under $30 and some for free.

Ok great thanks! I've done all the work on my XJ so far but I have limited tools since I moved so I'm trying to expect the unexpected. I found Husky 24" pipe wrench at Home Depot for 20 bucks so hopefully this will work. I'll keep everyone posted and thanks again rstarch345.

Done. First and foremost...no freakin way anyone anywhere is touching the uca's without taking off the coil springs. There is way too much force on the bolts to remove them from either the frame mount or the axle housing mounts.

Second, the pipe wrench was a good idea, but I wasn't strong enough to rotate the front axle even with a 24" wrench--alot of torque! I found some kid somewhere on the web who used the wrench on the lower part of the steering knuckle and pushed up on the end of the wrench with a jack. That did it. Perfect.

I did need to purchase a new breaker bar because these bolts were rusted so bad I couldn't break them loose even with a 1/2" ratchet.

I don't remember removing my coils to do the upper control arms. An impact wrench will help a lot inthe case of stuck bolts.

Heavy duty ratchet straps work really well for moving the axle around in a case like that.

yeh an impact wrench will only go so far....and i've used rachet straps to situate my front axle before and it was difficult/dangerous.

When i first did my 3.5" lift, the east-coast rust was impossible even with heat, penetrating oil, an impact wrench, an air hammer.....the list of tools i used goes on

Anyway, I do not recommend anyone touch uca's without taking the coils off.

I've R&R'd my UCA's a number of times without removing the coils. The secret is to do one arm at a time! Leave one in place to keep the axle from rotating. I also fabbed easily adjustable substitute arms that allow removal of both bottom arms without removing the springs: remove one LCA and install substitute arm--put it under a little compression, and remove the second arm. No problem.

You can also use a jack under the coil mount to rotate the axle a little.

I just did my upper and lowers both fixed without removing the coils. It was difficult to get lined up to pry the old bolts out due to stress on them. But I did it with only a little help from my friend.