BOLTS on MOUNT sheared off in Block. HELP!

Well it's worse than I thought. The motor mounts look great especially the left one. Of course it looks great.... BOTH bolts sheared off on the block and I didn't even think to check them!
kso i have NO mount supporting the engine on the battery side,and it appears the distributor is now resting on the mount (could this ruin the distributor??). IS there ANY way to raise that side of the engine up enough to limp it to the mechanic? Is it safe to drive there as is. Freaking out.....HELP!

EDIT: I know an Easy Out would work but there's only 2" of approach. I'd need a 90 degree drill and I don['t have one. Is it safe to drive a few miles as is to the mechanic's or should I tow it? It idles ROUGH right now. Hope I didn't damage the distributor...

the best move would be to tow it to the mech. you might be able to use a jack and jack it up enough to get some 4x4 wood blocks between the engine and the frame on both sides, but that is still bad.

Well it made it all the way down and back from the Barlow tail, so I guess whatever damage is done:gee:. I'll go REAL easy to the mech. It's only 3 miles:shiver:

Got it fixed but still kinda screwed up

Got it fixed...sorta. The upper bolt could not be retrieved after snapping an Easy out off in it. Undrilllable. So now I'm running on two bolts holding the mount bracket. I'm running the stock bracket still, and when I have $$$ I'll upgrade to this one I think

I'm running on the 2 bottom right bolts in the stock bracket right now since he uppermost is no longer an option. Ignore the far left bottom hole ; It doesn't exist on the stock one...which brings me to my next questions: 1. Exactly how safe IS it to run like this.
2. how safe Wheelin'?
3. Is anyone local up for welding on a 1/4" steel strip to the top left hole off towards the bottom left hole the above bracket has so I could use that mounting point? I would assume it should be just as strong as before if I can find someone to do it. This would make it safe right?
LASTLY: Is there ANY way to get that bolt out with an easy out stuck in it? It's really in there!
Any response appreciated! Wanna go wheelin' on the coast Monday, but REAL nervous till I get some input from those more experienced than I, Thanks all!

I hate easy outs--guess why!

I don't know how you are going to do it, but if you can clear enough room, maybe pull the OFA, do you think you could get at the easy out with a punch and drive it backwards to free it? If you can get it out of there then go after what is left of the bolt with PB blaster, heat, cool, repeat, then try a left hand drill bit?

Tried a punch to no avail, since it was bottomed out already. and a reverse bit. The mechs banged and drilled for 4 hours trying to get it out. they even tried drilling a relief hole to get a pick behind it and yank. Just wasn't happening. Case hardened is tough! I think that hole is screwed.
I can't even get a heely coil in cuz the damn Easy out is harder than everything else! Is there anything tough enough to drill through or at least gain purchase on the Easy out?
Brown Dog said he absolutely gauranteed strength and durability with just the lower 3 holes mounted. Said if anything happened he'd take care of it. Nice to see a company that truly stands behind and backs up their procucts! Now to aquire $$$.
Still gotta find SOMEBODY to tack that strip on for a temp fix though!

Thanks again Joe for all your help and insight. This is so overwhelming to one who has hardly any tools or experience when things go wrong wrenching. Just want to feel safe whellin' again and not freak out every time I hit a hard bump.

Found this on another website:

"You really can't drill an easy-out as they are far too hard. Usually broken ones are removed with an electric-discharge machine that literally burns them out with a low temperature arc. About the only shot you'd have drilling one out would be to heat the easy-out itself to bright red heat with a torch and let it cool. That might remove the temper."

Hmmmm. I wonder who would have a discharge machine. Wouldn't even know where to look. any ideas?

if you have a machine shop you could get them to get you a carbide rod and have them put a point on it and use that as a bit - the carbide rod is stronger than a easyout , I done a tap that broke not to long ago it takes time but it might work go slow and use cutting oil on the tip the machine shop will have that also

So you literally mean just a conical point on the rod or a cutting style tip i.e. drill bit starting point? I ask because I thought carbide was standard drill bit material.The mechs used a few bits and got nothing. Said the Easy Out was case hardened. I have time to try though without paying by the hour. Correct me if I'm missing something please.
I'll go and try it tomorrow if I can get a clear picture of what yer talking about. thanks BTW!

you could try welding a stud to it. if you are careful, the weld won't stick to the cast block.

I removed a broken head stud in a CTD that way. Took several tries to get the weld strong enough, but we did get it out.

it's not a carbide bit it's a carbide rod you have to put a point on the tip a machine shop will do that for you - also don't use oil on the tip -- i think the web site to get the tip is www.use-enco.com you will need a c5 or a c6 in hardness-any machine shop should be able to help you with the rod- my soninlaw is a machinest and he useing this a lot

They sell tools for removing broken extractors, Check with your local Snap-On guy or Mac dealer.

Brown Dog all the way you'll never have that problem again. I got the the super kit. Really well built.

what are the bolts metric or standard? anyone know what size?

I *totally* understand your situation... I was in the same boat recently. Good news is that I was able to get the bolt out but it took lots of time.

Background: The previous owner had snapped the engine mount bolts and claimed to have fixed it. After reading a few articles about this I rechecked the mounts only to find one of the mounts was missing a bolt - and the broken stud was still in there!

So I pulled the mount and dropped that side of the engine to drill out the bolt. But it wasn't drilling and instead kept eating bits. Whoever "fixed" the mount had also snapped an easy-out and left it in. Really cool.

At first I tried reverse cobalt drills and kept sharpening them. I was making progress but it was very very slow... measured in a millimeter or less an hour. A few hours of this and I searched for another option. While at Home Depot I found a special burr for my dremel tool... I think it was titanium nitride but my memory could be wrong. With this special cutting burr I was able to go in and very very carefully carve out the old bolt including the easy-out. It was still very slow, about and hour or two, but the result was complete removal of the easy out and final removal of the original bolt. I also saved the threads and simply screwed a new one in

Overall, it was 8+ hours of battle.

As a previous poster said, the easier answer is EDS but there might be access problems that make that process impossible without pulling the motor.

Your final answer will likely be one of those reinforced motor mounts. I don't suggest driving around with only two bolts in your motor mount.'

Good luck.

FYI - This week we're introducing an upgraded passenger-side (right side) Super Engine Bracket featuring eight holes. See it here: http://browndogindustries.com/s2572-resuperbracketright.aspx If you have purchased a set of brackets or a kit from us with our older style Super Engine Bracket (4-hole) in the past six months, please call us. We'll upgrade no charge.

Moderator: If this post has gone over the gray line, please delete the post. Thank you.

I don't think it is over the line. You offer a good product that can help fix this guy's problem. Whether or not he takes you up on it is his choice, but in the future people can see what their options are. You guys have always been a great supporter of and I have never heard anything but glowing praise for your products and customer support. We need more vendors like you. And by the way, thanks for the donation to our chapter raffle.

They do make solid carbide drill bits. Do a search. That would be my first choice.