• NAXJA is having its 18th annual March Membership Drive!!!
    Everyone who joins or renews during March will be entered into a drawing!
    More Information - Join/Renew
  • Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

what's the secret to brake adjusters

ehall

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
I looked at my rear brakes and the pads were like new so the adjuster obviously not engaging. The old ones looked and felt fine but I went ahead and replaced the adjuster screws. The arm that ratchets the screws worked for a moment but as soon as I pulled it down to dial the screw back it would no longer stay up and ratchet? I assume they are supposed to be setup in a specific way to make them work but can't figure it out. Who knows the secret??
 
If I'm understanding your problem correctly, it's all about getting the springs hooked up right. Not sure which rear end you're running, but here's a couple of pics for reference.

Dana 44
100_7093.jpg


Dana 35
100_7097.jpg


I also found that on my 44 the cable had worn through the cable guide causing it to bind up and keep the adjuster from working properly. Now that my drums have got some fresh parts in them, the adjusters actually have a considerable amount of spring tension holding them against the adjusting wheels. For now anyways...

If you've got a different axle, I'm no help. Sorry.
 
Adjust the star wheen with the drum ON, using the access hole, with a screwdriver. Adjust is so that there is resistance when you turm the wheel. Adjust your E brake, so that it tightens in 2-3 clicks.
 
Sorry, the 35 is not as fresh in my head as the 44. Sounds like either you need to dial the adjusting screw out a little bit, or the spring just above the screw is stretched out and needs to be replaced. That should take care of the movement. Also, does the cable connected to the top of the arm have tension on it or is it loose? Dialing out the adjusting screw should cause it to tighten up a bit too.
 
On the passenger side the cable was under the tabs on the corner of the "ear" which was giving it too much slack--rerouting it over the tabs put it back in the track, and it has the correct tension.

On the driver side the cable had pulled out from the end crimp a little bit so the lever was hanging low no matter what. I had to buy a tensioner kit ($10) to get a new cable. I also replaced the ear piece and the tensioner lever since they were included in the kit. This has mostly corrected the tension although the lever still has some sideways play that allows it to fall away from the sprocket. I may put a washer between it and the spring piece to hold it closer to the backing plate.
 
Yeah it helps. Here is the stock setup, you can see that the spring has a little bit of room between the lever and the backing.

D35_Drum_Tensioner_Stock.jpg


Since the purpose of the spring is to hold the lever inwards, allowing the spring to move out allows the lever to flop around and disengage from the sprocket.

By putting an M8 washer between the spring and the lever, the spring is pushed back against the backing, which in turn causes the far end of the spring to pull the lever inwards so that it stays engaged on the sprocket

D35_Drum_Tensioner_Washer.jpg


I'll see if this is still working at my next inspection and report back
 
Back
Top