Lifters not moving

I just posted (Click thats it) about a starting issue...solved that problem(Corroded ground)

But to back up...I changed the head gasket and put a rebuilt head on a 4.0. Its the first time I have done one but it looked pretty simple. I went to turn it over to check the compression with a tester and the rockers were not moving. Is there any way to screw this up? I torqued the rockers to 20 fp. is there a way to not put the pushrods in right. looks like they just drop into the little hole and rotate to tdc for each piston when you tighten them.

Did I break a cam or timing chain? will I have to take this head off again?

if the cam is broken can you get it out without dropping the oil pan?

Oh...this sucks. Looks like i'm taking the bus to work

Are the pushrods moving up and down?

There are other holes (oil galleries) in the head. When you crank the engine, the rods should move. I doubt you broke the timing chain (unless it was already broken). Post a pic of rockers.

Cant post a pic( too pissed and edgy, not about to fool with a camera, maybe when I calm down), but the pushrods don't move. It just spins like a sewing machine. The rockers are all in different positions so the cam is intact I would guess. I'm going to take the timing cover off tomorrow when I can get a puller for the harmonic balancer.

I hope I just sheared a key. is there room to get to that without taking the radiator out? Or just better to strip the whole front end (grill, rad, support)?

Well, I've never done it but have read where it is doable but tight. Given your frustration level I suggest pulling the radiator. It will give you more room and a bit easier access.

Was it running before you changed the gasket?

Is the distributor turning?

Yep...it was running, I backed it into the garage to change the gasket. I just checked the distributor, not turning.....

I dont hear any clanging or noise so the chain must be intact. I hope there is a key on the bottom timing chain sprocket that just sheared. There is a key right?????...cuz I cant afford much more than a key, and some gaskets and a tube of rtv.

If I have to take the head off that is a new set of bolts and a gasket to boot.

Even if you screwed something up you should not have to take the head off. If the push rods are in the wrrong holes you would know it. I think you may want to pull the valve cover and make sure the push rods are seated in the lifters properly and the rockers are set correctly. they are (should be) hydrolic lifters. you should be able to feel the push rod find the seat, then put some presure on it to make sure it is seated. You may want to verify that none of the push-rods are bent when you pull them.

If the Dist is not turrning either there is something messed up with the timing chain or key, and yes there is a key. CHECK THE PUSH RODS BEFORE RESETTING THE TIMING. If the key sheered there was a reason and that reason would be that there is resistance somewhere. the fact that you drove it into the garage, then the new problems occoured after you put the top back together, I would think there is something sticking up top.

If for some reason you dont have Hydrolic lifters then you will have to set the rockers the old fashion way. the other option could be the rebuilt head has springs that are WAY to heavy and they just locked up the cam. these two ideas are not likely but you never know.

I think it was the torque settings the first time I turned it over. I used a cheap harbor freight torque wrench and something told me it was funny. My buddy brought over his high dollar snap on digital one and it read 38fp taking them off. So I re torqued the head bolts and reset the lifters to 17lbs (One book said 20 but my buddy said 15-17 would be safer with a 130k motor.) So he left and I wrapped things up. thats when I was getting a loud click from the starter. Cleaned the connectors and thats when I it turned over freely (no plugs as I was checking compression) and I was getting 0psi.
took off the valve cover and here we are. So in retro spec its my bad. Lifters too tight I'm guessing. So I will tear it apart first thing in the morning and report back.

I will check the pushrods first, then the timing chain.

Don't panic. Like the man said, pull the distributor cap and see if the rotor is turning. It is an absolute indicator about the cam turning.

Will here goes....I found this post http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=903937

I will be using it as a guide as well as the Haynes. Wish me luck

Did you verify that the rotor is not turning?

Dist is not turning, so...broken cam,timing chain or the key....hope its just the key....fingers crossed.

OK good news and really stupid news.

I had my girlfriend help me, I turned over the motor and had her look at the rotor of the Dist. I pointed and told her to tell me if it turned. She said no...and I could see the lifters not moving. Well.......rotor turns fine after I got it apart and checked for myself.

When I took the head off to change the head gasket there was some coolant that got into the cylinders and on the top of the lifters. So I used a shop vac to suck all of that glop off. I drained the oil (super thin mixed with coolant about 7 quarts came out)

Could my lifters lost their prime....cuz now they are moving. As the ENTIRE FRONT of my Jeep is off, grill rad, 6 hours worth of work. ALL I HAD TO DO WAS CRANK THE DAMN MOTOR FOR 30 MORE SECONDS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! To prime the lifters!

IS THIS RIGHT!!!!!!!!!AAAAAAAAAAAAAGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Do I get some sort of prize now! FOR BEING SO FRICKEN STUPID!!!!!!!!!!!!

Great job..We all learn by doing..Is this your first motor tear down?

Yes, and I feel like an idiot!

However, I know how to tear the whole damn thing down now. Now I get to learn how to vac a A/C system and recharge it.

I'm looking at it the wrong way... As I was tearing it down I noticed MANY of the bolts were loose some missing. And now I know it has a new timing chain and front main seal.

This xj is new to me last week and I only drove it 10' from the trailer to the garage.
So I have:
$1000 Cost of xj
$250 Head rebuild
$110 for Head Gasket, head bolts
$50 for timing chain and gasket
$32 Water pump
$12 thermostat
$5 salvage yard tidbits (Bolts and blower fan resistor)
$55 battery
$18 freon
$14 rtv, anti seize

And now I am familiar with everything from the top of the block, all of the accessory mounts, rad, supports and the front fascia.

So in all it was a good lesson, and with my fingers crossed it will fire up in the morning. If not...I will be learning more

UPTADTE: IT RUNS!!!!!!!!!!!! runs crappy and a little hard to start, runs a little better than before the head gasket. I dont know how old the gas is. Smells ok but to rule things out I will drain the tank and put in fresh gas in the morning. I will also do a compression check.

If the lifters need to work themselves in give it a little time. also after all that stuff in the motor pull the plugs and clean/replace them after a few minutes of break in. also since you had coolant in the oil and you did not pull/boil the block do an oil change soon.. couple of hours or days at most, then do another after about 500 miles. it may seem like a waist but it is better to waist a little oil that a set of bearings because of a drop of water.

Thanks,
I have one lifter not pumping, cant adjust the rocker at all... bunch of slack. I have run it for about 20 min @ 1500 or so rpm and that lifter is still clanging away. I put some cheap oil in at first, just changed it. I will do it again after a few days on it Could this be a bad lifter?. its the intake on #3. And the old owner sait it got real hot when the HG blew, head cracked.

???