beadlock bolts question

OK, so I have the weld on bead locks welded up, all is painted and I'm going to be getting the tires mounted on them tomorrow. I have the bolts all ready (32 per wheel ) as well as the nylock nuts (I opted for those instead of nutzerts, long story). Anyways, being that I"m often overly cautious I'm wondering if I should also use a drop of blue locktite on each bolts? Just to be on the safe side?


Also bolting them on: bolt them on in like the wheels (across, across, acros) or in a circular pattern? I was thinking that I will probably want to bolt them on in a cross pattern first to get the ring down and the rubber somewhat compressed and then in a circular pattern to the point where all is good and tight at 15ft/lbs.

cross pattern.

i guess blue loctite wouldn't hurt, but i've never used it. i personally wouldn't waste the time

128 beads of lock tite = pain in the ass

Yes use locktite. blue or red doesn't matter.

XJFire said:

128 beads of lock tite = pain in the ass

Click to expand...

Yeah.. no kidding... but you know what... I'd rather do that then have something go wrong on the road.

Remi's whole reason for getting the beadlocks is so that he doesn't roll his Jeep on the street like the last one!:roll:hahahaha :bunny:

P.S.> where are the pics, I want to see my work after paint!!!!!

ryurabbit said:

Remi's whole reason for getting the beadlocks is so that he doesn't roll his Jeep on the street like the last one!:roll:hahahaha :bunny:

P.S.> where are the pics, I want to see my work after paint!!!!!

Click to expand...

I'll probably post them up tonight. Btw, 35's feel nice :d

Remi a little trick I used on mine was to start at 12,3,6,9 to help get it centered. Then we just skiped every other hole around the rim till all bolts were in, does that make sense. Then marked the 12,3,6,9 and started torq. in a star pattern, it took about 5 times around each rim to get them all torq. to 13-15 lbs.

jrsxj98 said:

Remi a little trick I used on mine was to start at 12,3,6,9 to help get it centered. Then we just skiped every other hole around the rim till all bolts were in, does that make sense. Then marked the 12,3,6,9 and started torq. in a star pattern, it took about 5 times around each rim to get them all torq. to 13-15 lbs.

Click to expand...

What I ended up doing was something similar:
I started at 12, 3, 6 and 9 with longer bolts to get things centered and to bring the ring down. Then I went all the way around in one pass with an impact and then took 3 rotations with a torque wrench and got it down to 15 ft lbs.

This thread is worthless without pics!!!!! :bunny:

probably wouldnt be a bad idea to use locktite, i have a few backout every now and then. heres a picture for ya

Ramsey said:

probably wouldnt be a bad idea to use locktite, i have a few backout every now and then. heres a picture for ya

Click to expand...

Damn, you stole my picture????

Actually I did use a drop of blue lock tite on each bolt.

Blue lock tite would be good. I'm more concerned with break bolts, that's why I ran a bolt that is a little longer so I can grab it with a pair of plyers from the backside or front if it breaks. If the bolt breaks in the nut and you cannot get it, then you have to pound out the welded nut and run a loose nut and washer. I have a few of these on my beadlock rims due to broken bolts that could not be accessed.

Also do a criss cross pattern especially in the beginning to get the ring lined up right. I like to then tighten down the bolts a little and then tightened them down more once all your bolts are lined up. Remember you don't need to gun the bolts down to tight just about 20 ft/lbs or so. I had all kinds of problems with broken bolts when I tightened then down too hard when I didn't know much about beadlocks.

Good luck. How you liking the 35's? Did you sell your 33's already?

While I like my 37" MTRs and beadlocks, I really wish I would have stayed with a 33" tire to have a somewhat streetable rig my wife could drive on occasion rather than a 100% devoted wheeler. I'm looking to do this with my dd and have a semi off roader, mostly dd.

Troy

Big Red said:

Blue lock tite would be good. I'm more concerned with break bolts, that's why I ran a bolt that is a little longer so I can grab it with a pair of plyers from the backside or front if it breaks. If the bolt breaks in the nut and you cannot get it, then you have to pound out the welded nut and run a loose nut and washer. I have a few of these on my beadlock rims due to broken bolts that could not be accessed.

Click to expand...

Who said anything about welded nuts? Also bolts are just the right length to get all the way into nylock without hitting the rim.

Ramsey said:

...

Click to expand...

Somebody had a nervous system disorder on welding day.

--ron

eh?

Ramsey said:

eh?

Click to expand...

I'm dissing the weld appearance Ramsey cause I can.

Any other questions?



--ron

No I guess that covers it. They havent fallen apart so its good enough for me