Identify the cooling components (pics)

Working through the leak issues with the cooling system...... replaced my third overflow tank with a Mac's Radiator aluminum tank and FINALLY no issues there, but now I have a leak in a different area.....
The hose in question is in BLUE below, it sits behind the "Y" style metal/hose unit highlighted in purple.

The BLUE leaking unit has some type of vacuum/electric modulator attached, and it is this junction that is leaking from the bottom of the of the metal plate that carries an actuator arm (see pictures #2 & #3) This hose goes to the bottom inlet of the heater core in to the firewall area passenger side.
As a second question the metal/hose "Y" unit (highlighted in purple in pictures one and two) what is that called?


Lastly where can I purchase these two items? Can they be ordered from NAPA, Auto Zone etc etc....



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Thanks......

The valve looking thing is your heater control valve. You can pick it up at any local parts store. It looks like it comes all as a unit including the y and the valve.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ca...=Heater+Control+Valve&searchText=heater+valve

Cool Now that I have my nose pointed in to the wind - looks like that's what it is.....

I'll get that and all the replacement hoses from www.Teamcherokee.com it looks like they have the valve and the full hose kit (and in the kit the metal "Y" part that is un-named above)





Thanks for getting me started int he right direction.

Eliminate the heater control valve.

My heater control valve broke in half when I flexed the hoses to get at a sparkplug... they are 1/16" thick injection molded glass-polyester resin I believe, so after a decade or so the hot coolant takes away a lot of the strength. Replace that thing ASAP. I'll probably be doing like 5-90 did and replacing all my heater related hoses with 1/2" copper piping soon, as it is far more durable and I have it around.

See http://geocities.com/JeepI6Power/coming.html (end of page)

You don't need the heater control valve. It's eliminated on later models.

oh really? wow, never realized that for some reason. I figured if I didn't have it, my "vent" option would become "vent with heat".

The valve only eliminates the flow of hot coolant through the heater core. Later models don't have this valve and the most common thing to do is to eliminate it completely.

Ditto - are there any adverse effects to NOT having a heater control valve?
Are there two temps then HOT and OFF?
Does it effect the AC temp HOT and COLD at once?

(Just trying to understand how this works)

Realy interesting idea on the copper pipe... I might even be able to do that my self with a BernzOmatic torch.

:flame:

That's all I'm worried about... I need to look at my heater/AC air box to figure out if it'll make the thing blow hot all the time (or someone can answer the admittedly stupid question). The fact that later models don't have it makes me think it'll be fine without. And yes, the valve is all-on or all-off - it's a vacuum solenoid driving it. At least on the 96 model year the valve has four ports in a cross shape, with the engine connected to two adjacent ports and the heater core connected to the other two. The butterfly valve switches diagonally so that the coolant is either shunted directly back to the engine or passes through the heater core.

On the copper pipe, I'm probably going to tweak the design a bit - I want my pipes to follow the exact lines the existing hoses follow, so I'm likely going to use some of the sack of 45 degree elbows I bought for another project. I'll make sure I measure everything before doing final soldering so it can be duplicated easily.

5-90 - if you see this thread and want the info after I've finished, you're more than welcome to it (I noticed on your page you were looking for a guinea pig for model years outside of 87-90)

:flame:

EDIT: if you get rid of the valve, make sure you cap off the vac line.

Roger on the vac line cap.

Here is a good thread from our brothers on the MJ forum.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=14855&hilit=heater+control+valve

Looks like I just saved $60.00 - out goes the leaking valve - never to return.
Thanks for the heads up bigalpha.

No, eliminating the heater valve doesn't noticeably impact the hot/cold of the HVAC system.

It's also a common failure point in the cooling system.

Glad I could help.

bigalpha said:

Eliminate the heater control valve.

Click to expand...

See below for RENIX info.

kastein said:

My heater control valve broke in half when I flexed the hoses to get at a sparkplug... they are 1/16" thick injection molded glass-polyester resin I believe, so after a decade or so the hot coolant takes away a lot of the strength. Replace that thing ASAP. I'll probably be doing like 5-90 did and replacing all my heater related hoses with 1/2" copper piping soon, as it is far more durable and I have it around.

See http://geocities.com/JeepI6Power/coming.html (end of page)

Click to expand...

Well, FWIW here's my opinion.

I'd replace it since it's a RENIX HCV.

The "later models" did away with the HCV because they also had electronically controlled blend doors and not just the vacuum doors. Yes, you'd have "vent with heat" and not having the HCV on a RENIX will unnecessarily tax your A/C.

OK good to know. I do not live in a hot area so my AC usage is at a maximum 1 or 2 weeks a year in a vehicle.

And my ac has blown medium warm air at best for 3 years now..... so no loss there either, but will keep it tucked away for reference.

Thanks for all the help guys, between EcoMike's help on other cooling issues and the help and good will from other :: members has made me decide to join the actual group.

Free information is good to a point, but comes a time when I feel I need to "step up" and support what I've been taking advantage of for a while now.....

So hopefully I'll be "in the red" in the next day or two.

Thanks, for the help and the push over to the dark side....


RTFM

ooooo it's instant - WOW!

:roflmao:

welcome to the club! :: arty:

To answer the question, eliminating the valve won't make a noticeable difference. When you slide the lever over to cold, a flap swings over and blocks off the part of the ductwork that has the heater core so it has no air flowing through it. I noticed no difference when I eliminated mine.