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Useless parking brake

j99xj

NAXJA Forum User
Hey everybody.

When I engage my parking brake all the way my Jeep is still capable of rolling while in neutral.

I also tested the parking brake on the road. I drove about 20-30 mph and completely engaged the parking brake and it took forever to stop. On all other cars I've driven the parking brake would easily stop the vehicle and even lock the wheels up if the lever was pulled fast enough.

Whats wrong? And yes I checked the cable slack.
 
j99xj said:
Hey everybody.

When I engage my parking brake all the way my Jeep is still capable of rolling while in neutral.

Whats wrong? And yes I checked the cable slack.
*Start by jacking up the rear and putting Jeep on jack stands
*Then test the rear brakes...see if they will stop while running in drive.
*then pull the drums and inspect the shoes for wear
*repair and/or replace the shoes and/or mechanism as needed
*install drum and adjust the drum clearance
*test again to make sure the slave cylinders are operating
*After this...see if the parking brake system will work
*Then adjust the brake cable adjuster underneath if necessary
*you can adjust the nut at the handle after all this has been checked
 
Its a hope for the best brake. You yank it, and hope for the best. Wether you are parking, or you rode your brakes all the way down a mountain and they dont engage anymore.
 
Another thing to keep in mind - in the 96 or earlier xj's, the ebrake is connected to two brackets under the floorboards where you put your feet in the back seat.

These brackets can rust and pull away from the floorboards, thereby loosening the tension, and making your ebrake useless.

i drilled and put a bold through mine, works like a charm.
 
I've owned my 90 since new. Never had good ebrakes. 92 not much better. I live on a hill and I would never rely on them. They always roll in neutral!
 
my ebrake sucked until i relocated the brackets. i tightened up the linkage and its been good ever since

*with no brake tension, pump the ebrake lever a couple times, then pull the lever 4-5 clicks up
*get underneath and tighten up the linkage
*get back up top, lower the handle and lift, it should stop at around 5-6 clicks (stop meaning you can tell that the ebrake is engaged--there is significant resistance)
*if the lever is not tense at 6 clicks, tighten again, repeat until it is tight at around 5-6 clicks up.

go to a shallow declining road and put in Neutral, pull parking brake, see if it stops.

if it doesnt... youve got bigger problems than parking brake is broken
 
bacelaw said:
Another thing to keep in mind - in the 96 or earlier xj's, the ebrake is connected to two brackets under the floorboards where you put your feet in the back seat.

These brackets can rust and pull away from the floorboards, thereby loosening the tension, and making your ebrake useless.

i drilled and put a bold through mine, works like a charm.

I had the same problem on my 95, and recommend bolting and reinforcing even if they haven't torn away yet, because they flex and may start to crack the floor around them even if there's no rust. The 97-up design is greatly improved. If the OP concerns a 99, as the poster's handle suggests, then look to the brake adjustment first.
 
As stated, if brakes are in good condition and mount is good, there should be adjustment to "hold you stopped" at ten clicks or less.
 
AlohaBra said:
alright..i read your original post again and i will have to agree...the parking brake is not an emergency brake (misnomer).
Parking brake, emergency brake, E-brake, all the same thing, just people call it different things.

I had the same problem dude on my '99. Most likely, your brakes are gone in the rear. I could pull my e-brake all the way, and not even slow down. I was in my driveway one time, and I stepped on my brake pedal, and I heard the weirdest noise from my back brakes. I jacked it up and took off the drum, and once I pressed it again, the brake shoe fell of the car and the seal on the cylinder fell off and all the brake fluid leaked out. I had my hands full with a Full brake job that weekend cause that thing was in the middle of my driveway, and wasn't going anywhere.

And if you chose to do the brakes yourself, follow the directions about lifting up your ebrake lever and then tightening up the star until you can't move the drum.
And when you bleed the brakes, start with the farthest brake away from the master cylinder (right rear, left rear, front right, front left)
 
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i dunno, my parking brake has never worked and i have had two brake jobs since new. i even swapped axles and my dana 44 in the rear has badass brakes and it can lock up tires, but the handbrake doesnt hold. the nut has been adjusted a few times, but still not very much resistance. i was told i need new e brake cables.

i found the cheap solution tho. park on level ground, or curb park so it wont roll. i live in GA where it is very hilly but i just use sense when i park.

-Tim
 
j99xj said:
Do you mean just a wear and tear item like brake pads or the whole shee bang?
most likely the pads are worn and the self adjuster is seized. Adjust them by hand after checking the pad thickness and they'll probably work just fine.
 
The ebrake cables and the self adjusters have a mechanical relationship, if you adjust one, you need to adjust the other. Don't just tighten the cables until it works, you could upset something else inside the drum. Follow a manual or have someone qualified do it. Brakes are one of those items that are easy to learn and do, but also one of those items that could kill you.
 
The self adjusters work when you hit the brakes in reverse. So get everything adjusted, as others have stated, make sure everything is clean and lubed at the pivot points, and then every once in a while, give the brakes a good, hard stab while backing up.

Shoe e-brakes, by their design, will work better holding down-hill, or going forward. Mine are set up well, but I still roll a foot, or so, if I park up-hill, but they'll only roll a few inches down-hill.
 
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