TNT to radius 3-link?

Simms · Aug 23, 2009

I'm not good at searchin...

I'm sure someone has done it, so who has removed one of the upper arms off of the TNT Y-link kit to make it a radius 3-link of sorts?

Thoughts? Opinions? Experience?

I'm thinkin about doin this with mine since the Y-link has a bind issue...

96TNXJ · Aug 23, 2009

I have no experience at all with this but Iron Rock Offroad had the radius 3 link your talking about and from what I READ it works well but thats all I know

winkosmosis · Aug 23, 2009

It has 2 Ys? Doesn't that create a lot of binding? How can it flex at all without twisting the axle??

Onetype · Aug 24, 2009

I have no experience in doing this just because it sounds like a horrible idea IMHO. I would suggest building a real 3 link or buying one if you can't. Anyway here you go http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=998208&highlight=link+suspension.

Simms · Aug 24, 2009

I saw the question asked in you like but no answer to it...Why do you think its a horrible idea? Are you still running yours as a twin y-link?

Anyone know if this is a good or bad idea? Or know of someone that has done it? I'm prolly gonna cut the floor in the PS and do a true 3-link when I get time/funds and get clued in with more info on link sep. and length...I need to build steering first tho...

Anyways, for now...Wheelin with just one upper on the TNT Y-link...How about it?

builder · Aug 24, 2009

I remember seeing a thread not long ago where "xjranger" has a friend who did it and it works as well as his 3 link mid arm according to him.if i am not mistaken all of the joints on axle and the small connecting one on single arm would have to be flex/hard joints. just like a true 3 link.frame side could be rubber.custom shops have built them like that 4 yrs with no problems..PM xj ranger for more info on it..

builder · Aug 24, 2009

Shock question for the jeepspeed guys... -

Forums -::- North American XJ Association here it is..PM XJranger

Simms · Aug 24, 2009

Thanks! Thats what I was lookin for...

MoparManiac · Aug 24, 2009

If I was going to do it I would run a hard joint at the axle end and run a larger diameter bolt. I wouldn't trust a factory 10mm bolt to handle all of that load.

builder · Aug 24, 2009

MoparManiac said:
If I was going to do it I would run a hard joint at the axle end and run a larger diameter bolt. I wouldn't trust a factory 10mm bolt to handle all of that load.

Currie makes a joint for it that accepts a 1/2" bolt. rockkrawler uses a 14mm on the UCA also and i personally don't see a problem with it.as long as it's grade 8.

Phil · Aug 24, 2009

Opie was talking about my car.

I have one RE-based radius arm and one RE-based long lower...radius arm with the upper removed.

Rubber at the axle end of the lowers.

Poly at the axle end of the single upper.

Hard joints where the upper mounts to the lower and where the lowers mount to the crossmember.

Works really well. And yes, I use the small bolts on the upper.

sik4wheeler · Aug 24, 2009

Not trying to hi jack this thread but what are the thoughts about taking the uppers off and making a true 3rd-link while using TnTs lower and crossmember.

jeeperjohn · Aug 24, 2009

If you remove the upper arm on one of your links you will need to weld the axle tubes or you have a strong chance of spinning one.

builder · Aug 25, 2009

Phil said:
Opie was talking about my car.

I have one RE-based radius arm and one RE-based long lower...radius arm with the upper removed.

Rubber at the axle end of the lowers.

Poly at the axle end of the single upper.

Hard joints where the upper mounts to the lower and where the lowers mount to the crossmember.

Works really well. And yes, I use the small bolts on the upper.

Was wondering why poly on the one upper instead of rubber? thanks

RCP Phx · Aug 25, 2009

jeeperjohn said:
If you remove the upper arm on one of your links you will need to weld the axle tubes or you have a strong chance of spinning one.

Where did that come from?Most use the drivers side upper which is part of the 3rd member housing!

jeeperjohn · Aug 25, 2009

RCP Phx said:
Where did that come from?Most use the drivers side upper which is part of the 3rd member housing!

The force of braking and acceleration on the tubes can cause the tubes to turn inside the housing over time even with the y-link setup. Having only one upper link increases this effect.

Phil · Aug 25, 2009

builder said:
Was wondering why poly on the one upper instead of rubber? thanks

To reduce axle wrap.

POLAR_JEEP_04 · Aug 27, 2009

jeeperjohn said:
If you remove the upper arm on one of your links you will need to weld the axle tubes or you have a strong chance of spinning one.

when you do this, should you remove the axle seal? does it get hot enough to damage the rubber on the seal?

jeeperjohn · Aug 27, 2009

POLAR_JEEP_04 said:
when you do this, should you remove the axle seal? does it get hot enough to damage the rubber on the seal?

It would be best to remove the seals first but if your seals are new you can just do a small section at a time and go back and forth between sides if the diff and you will probably be O.K.

TNT to radius 3-link?

Simms

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