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Daily driver help

Spaz_Soldier

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Winchester, VA
I've got a '01 XJ on 35"s as my daily. I'm thinking of regearing and possibly getting lockers. What does everyone think I should re-gear to and/or which lockers to get? Thanks in advance.
 
I vote Selectable in Front and an Auto Locker (LunchBox) in the Rear where it is most beneficial.

Detroit, Lockright, or Aussie (in that order) for the Rear.

For the front

Go with a Selectable for the front... The very best is the OX Locker and is less expensive than an Air or Electric Selectable. ARB Locker Kit plus Air Pump= Big Bucks.

No wires to short out. No hoses to crack or brake or Air Pump to worry about.

On slippery, rainy, icy, or snowy surfaces a selectable is always the best for the front. When unselected the wheels spin like an open diff and you will not have to worry about it suddenly locking up and taking you where you have never been before. It's very difficult to make normal turns with a LunchBox on the Front. The front end feels like it's on ice and your turning radius is cut short.I will never go with anything else but a selectable for the front.

I have seen People go up Inclines and hit Mud or Sand and their LunchBox wouldn't let them Steer. I have driven in Heavy Rain here in Florida and the Oil, Grit, Rubber, Sand have kept me going straight without a Locker... heaven forbid I had a LunchBox in the Front.


2usd2tw.jpg



* 100% MADE IN THE USA.
* Lockers are made of 8620 steel. SAME AS RING AND PINION GEARS
* Only FORGED and heat treated steel. NO CAST PARTS HERE
* Exclusive 4 spider gear design on ALL OX Lockers.
* HEAVY DUTY Steel Diff Cover. Included FREE with each locker
* “Back Cut” gear tooth locking ring and locking gear. DESIGNED FOR MAXIMUM LOCKING FORCE!
* 100% mechanical design with cable and shifter.
* Optional Air Actuation System.


If you choose you could go with any of these options:

Manual shifter OX-SHFT

Air actuation system OXA1001

Electronic shifter OXE1001


OX Lockers for the following aplications:


Dana 30 3.73 and up, 27 spline OXD30C373H-27

Dana 30 3.73 and up, 30 spline OXD30C373H-30

Dana 35 3.55 and up, 27 spline OXD35C355H-27

Dana 35 3.55 and up, 30 spline OXD35C355H-30

Dana 44 3.73 and dn,30 spline OXD44C373D-30

Dana 44 3.92 and up, 30 spline OXD44C392H-30

Dana 44 3.92 and up, 33 spline OXD44C392H-33

Dana 44 JK, Non Rubicon, 30 spline OXD44JK-30

Dana 60 4.10 and dn, 35 spline OXD60C354H-35

Dana 60 4.10 and dn, 30 spline OXD60C354H-30

Dana 60 4.56 and up, 35 spline OXD60C456H-35

Dana 60 4.56 and up, 30 spline OXD60C456H-30

Ford 8.8 2.73 and up, 31 spline OXF88C273H-31

AMC 20 3.08 and up, 29 spline OXA20C308H-29

Yes, they are working on a Chrysler 8.25 Locker and its in testing right now.


http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/Home/tabid/365/Default.aspx


OX

440 S. Pinellas Ave

Tarpon Springs, FL 34689


Technical Support: 727-230-7803

Fax: 727-232-3721


Email at:

[email protected]


Hope this helps.
 
I believe 4.56s would be appropriate for 35s for a Daily Driver and Weekend Offroader. I do not think 4.88s are strong enough in a Dana 30. The Ring Gear is thinner in a 4.88 than in a 4.56 and the Pinion Gear is really small also for the 4.88 IMHO.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks a lot, guys. Where can I find prices for the OX locker?

Dana 30: http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/OnlineStore/tabid/438/List/1/CategoryID/12/Level/a/Default.aspx

Dana 35 (not worth it) It is better to Swap Out a Dana 35 for a '97+ XJ Chrysler 8.25 (much Stronger Axle Assembly) or a Late '80 Dana 44 or even to a '96+ Ford Explorer V8 Ford 8.8 Axle Assembly (best choice in my opinion). They have a Chrysler 8.25 in development as I understand it.
http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/OnlineStore/tabid/438/List/1/CategoryID/13/Level/a/Default.aspx
http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/OnlineStore/tabid/438/List/1/CategoryID/14/Level/a/Default.aspx
http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/OnlineStore/tabid/438/List/1/CategoryID/18/Level/a/Default.aspx

Florida Manufacturing Group (a.k.a. Ox Locker)
11625 Prosperous Drive
Odessa, FL 33556
Phone: 877-694-7699
Fax: 727-569-3200
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.ox-usa.com

Or here

This is a Good Site (NAXJA Sponsor) to order from:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/in...ords+here&main_page=index&manufacturers_id=19
http://www.justdifferentials.com/in...scription=1&keyword=OX Locker&sort=20a&page=2
 
Last edited:
Thanks a lot, guys. Where can I find prices for the OX locker?

Here is another Great Site:
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/axles-gears-lockers/ox-lockers.htm


not to hijack or anything but i was wondering this same question but for 33's and a lot of highway driving

The Answer would be the same as Posted above in my First Posting on this Thread. Size of Tires would have little to do with Locker Selection IMHO. And, Slippery Surfaces are still Slippery Surfaces no matter where you drive. Slick is Slick. As I stated, I have driven in Heavy Rain here in Florida and the Oil, Grit, Rubber, Sand have kept me going straight without a Locker (That's on the Road and No Locker)... heaven forbid I had a LunchBox in the Front.

Hope this helps.
 
The gear selection isn't that straightforward. 4.56, while adequate at low elevations in flat terrain, will leave you wishing you had gone that extra mile when you hit hills, especially with 35". Personally I run 4.88 and 33's, but I am at high altitudes with hills.

As for lockers, it's all in what you can afford. Selectable at least in front is advisable if you have the means. Also, while the Ox is a sturdy unit, wires and hoses are easier to run than cables, and easier to repair. Having to have Onboard Air is an additional cost, but has additional benefit. Everything has a trade-off.
 
Id be focused on a regear before lockes if you DD it. 4:88s will do the trick.

I run a Lock right up front and Auburn LS out back. IMO thats about as good of a DD set-up as you can get without going selectable.

Lock Right is invisible in 2wd onroad and down south I dont have to worry with much snow driving and the LS keeps traction in 2wd offroad situations and is helpful onroad too. Ive never had it stay locked around tight turns...
 
The gear selection isn't that straightforward. 4.56, while adequate at low elevations in flat terrain, will leave you wishing you had gone that extra mile when you hit hills, especially with 35". Personally I run 4.88 and 33's, but I am at high altitudes with hills.

Awe, common now, while where I live the Elevation might get as high as 50 feet we Do have 30 foot Inclines we have to climb every once in a while. LOL :sunshine: :party: :piratefla:

As for lockers, it's all in what you can afford. Selectable at least in front is advisable if you have the means. Also, while the Ox is a sturdy unit, wires and hoses are easier to run than cables, and easier to repair. Having to have Onboard Air is an additional cost, but has additional benefit. Everything has a trade-off.

For those who do like Air Actuated Lockers. Ox also offers an Optional Air Actuation System.

I would agree that it's all about what you can afford. Personally, I wouldn't want to depend on an Air Hose Locker Actuated System or it's Air Source. Mechanical all the way for me.

For those in need of an Extreme Bad A$$ Air Actuated Locker System... get this along with your Ox Locker.
http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/OnlineStor...D/5/List/1/Level/a/ProductID/132/Default.aspx

Air%20actuator%20kit%20w%20tubing_3.jpg


For those in need of an Extreme Bad A$$ Electric Actuated Locker System... get this along with your Ox Locker.
http://www.ox-usa.com/ox/OnlineStor...D/5/List/1/Level/a/ProductID/141/Default.aspx

Electric%20actuating%20shifter%20rev%20b.JPG


However, this is only my Opinion.
 
I'll throw ARB's in the ring. I actually run one, and haven't had any problems with it. it is set up by the book (which is where a lot of people's problems come from) I have a braided stainless line, and the compact ARB compressor, all driven through a fitchbox. I'll wait patiently for the OX locker fanbois to come and talk about all of the potential points of failure, positive engagement etc., but not once have I hit the button, thought i was engaged, and wasn't.

oh, and i like having a diff cover that isn't an integral part of the system.


Aussie, Detroit or selectable in the rear. (in order of cost, ascending)
for 35's on the street, I would rather have a selectable in the rear.
 
As I stated, I have driven in Heavy Rain here in Florida and the Oil, Grit, Rubber, Sand have kept me going straight without a Locker (That's on the Road and No Locker)... heaven forbid I had a LunchBox in the Front.

Are you saying that with a lunchbox locker you wouldn't be able to drive straight on a wet street?

I have an Aussie in the front of my daily driver and live in Oregon where it rains half the year. I've never had any problems going straight (or turning) on wet roads, mud, gravel, dry dusty dirt...
 
Detroit, Lockright, or Aussie (in that order) for the Rear.

Why that order? Durability? Price? Performance?

I have an Aussie in the front of my daily driver and live in Oregon where it rains half the year. I've never had any problems going straight (or turning) on wet roads, mud, gravel, dry dusty dirt...

Does your Aussie in the front click while making turns in 2WD?
 
The altitude comment I believe was directed at the lack of air which leads to a lack of power. This is true wether horizantal, or going up inclines. There is a formula that's pretty staggering. I think you lose something like 3% of power for every 1000 feet rise in elevation.

I'm at 7000 ft. with 4.56s and 32s. It's no race car, but much better than with the 3.55s. However, when I'm at the mother-in-law's place in California, I'm simply amazed at the power off the line! I'll probably limit myself to 33s with the 4.56s. However, 4.56s and 35s in my V8 CJ were fine in California.

Stay away from auto lockers (Detroits) in the front - especially without manual hubs! If you do, the trick to steering is to let off the power a little just before steering wheel input. That works well everywhere but when in heavy rocks and a stop. My Detroit with 15.50" wide Swampers turned fine except in the big rocks where it would simply refuse.
 
I have 4:56s with 33s in my '01 and wish I had gone with 4:88s. I also have a detroit in the back and an ECTED in the front and have not had a problem with either.
 
I'll start off by saying I run OX front and rear.

Also, while the Ox is a sturdy unit, wires and hoses are easier to run than cables, and easier to repair. Having to have Onboard Air is an additional cost, but has additional benefit. Everything has a trade-off.

I will agree with you, everything does have a trade off. With ARB you have the bonus of onboard air, as well as those wires and hose is probably easier to run than the cable. With the OX, you have a heavy duty diff cover, you don't have to run extra wires, or buy and find a place and mount an air compressor. The stiffness of the cable is the main drawback in mounting it. They both have the pro's and con's.

But I will say that it is not easier to repair an ARB on the trail. If both lockers still function, but only the means of actuating them fail, then a bolt screwed into the OX cover will lock the locker.
With an ARB, a torn line will take time to replace, an air leak could take a long time to track down, and possibly even mean pulling the cover. Both an air leak, and an electrical failure with the pump would leave no means of actuating the locker, as air is needed.



I'll wait patiently for the OX locker fanbois to come and talk about all of the potential points of failure, positive engagement etc., but not once have I hit the button, thought i was engaged, and wasn't.
That is good to know. I will also say that I have never thrown the lever, and not felt it engage.

oh, and i like having a diff cover that isn't an integral part of the system.
Why? The diff cover is pure beef; it can easily take an abuse, and is probably more heavy duty than many covers out there.

If you hit something hard enough to brake that cover, then it doesn't matter if the cover is an integral part of the system or not, you have more problems than worrying if your locker is working.
i.e. what the condition of the rest of your Jeep is in, because if you hit something that hard, then its surely not alright.
 
I'll start off by saying I run OX front and rear.



I will agree with you, everything does have a trade off. With ARB you have the bonus of onboard air, as well as those wires and hose is probably easier to run than the cable. With the OX, you have a heavy duty diff cover, you don't have to run extra wires, or buy and find a place and mount an air compressor. The stiffness of the cable is the main drawback in mounting it. They both have the pro's and con's.

But I will say that it is not easier to repair an ARB on the trail. If both lockers still function, but only the means of actuating them fail, then a bolt screwed into the OX cover will lock the locker.
With an ARB, a torn line will take time to replace, an air leak could take a long time to track down, and possibly even mean pulling the cover. Both an air leak, and an electrical failure with the pump would leave no means of actuating the locker, as air is needed.

OX guys act like it is rocket science to install a brass butt splice in 1/4" polyflow tubing. (cut and press, literally 30 seconds) Or that tracing the wire to your compressor is more difficult than crawling under your jeep and installing a screw in the diff cover. I have also never flipped the valve on my ARB and not had it engage. I have had one problem with an E-locker, but that seems to have stemmed from improper handling during installation, and was warrantied.

Sell the OX on actual strengths, not some faults of the other guys lockers you read on the interwebs. The OX is a stronger unit, Once set up properly the OX is very reliable. If the cable should fail the locker can still be engaged. The OX comes with a very stout diff cover.hasta
 
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