Local resources....?

[RockyCodeHead]

I am planning a full rebuild of a 4.0 this winter.

I would like to do it right and get the engine fluxed, decked and bored and have the head reworked.

This leads me to two questions...

1) Rebuild kit... Do I buy the master kit from napa for $729? Or do I piece together what I need (bottom end kit, head kit, get my cam and lifters and timing set apart from the kit?)

2) Where should I get the machine work done? I am in lakewood. What can I expect to pay for the block work and head work?

Thanks, and Happy driving in the snow tomorrow!!!!

SNOW!!! Can you believe it??? The SNOW is back!!! Sweet!

-Rob

[XJFire]

Yeah Ian Slusher called me today covered in elk blood he was like HOLY SHIT ITS SNOWING. I wept inside. I won't see snow for over a year. BLAH!

[Hypoid]

I wept inside. I won't see snow for over a year. BLAH!

If we tried to mail one to ya, would it get through?

[XJFire]

what.... a snowflake?

[RockyCodeHead]

Yeah Ian Slusher called me today covered in elk blood he was like HOLY SHIT ITS SNOWING. I wept inside. I won't see snow for over a year. BLAH!

He got to play in the snow and had dinner delivered? Thats just wrong...

Wrong I saw! It should have been me!!!!!

Gotta get me a tag next year!!!!

[philip_g]

if you're rebuuilding are you going to stroke it?

[XJFire]

He got to play in the snow and had dinner delivered? Thats just wrong...

Wrong I saw! It should have been me!!!!!

Gotta get me a tag next year!!!!

I know seriously right? Like what the hell, snow, huge elk, IN HIS XJ NO LESS!!!

Curses!

[RockyCodeHead]

if you're rebuuilding are you going to stroke it?

If I can afford it. I suspect I'd have to replace the crank shaft, but would I need a piston set too? How about rods?

What benefit would I get from a fancy schmancy after market cam?

What would be the implications of getting an HO head? I believe I would have to replace the manifolds, but what about the computer? Throttle body? other junk?

I am only planning on one winter to accomplish the rebuild, I would like to plug in the new power plant this coming spring. -- I didn't mean for this to turn into a technical posting, I would have posted it in the technical forum otherwise. But, since I am looking for west metro area shops I figured the colorado forum would work.

[philip_g]

can't tell you, I have a crank I bought on ebay but won't be starting until spring. Was hoping you could tell me a few things :D

[Hypoid]

what.... a snowflake?
My bad! Howsabout a snowball or two? lol

5-90 (I think) sent me a link to a strokers newsgroup over a yahoo:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/strokers/

I think you need to log in at yahoo to view? Quite the cache of info there.

[XJFire]

Snowballs rock! I'm gonna put a snowball slingshot on my XJ next year.

[RockyCodeHead]

can't tell you, I have a crank I bought on ebay but won't be starting until spring. Was hoping you could tell me a few things :D

Come spring I will probably be able to!!! ;-)

[philip_g]

My bad! Howsabout a snowball or two? lol

5-90 (I think) sent me a link to a strokers newsgroup over a yahoo:

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/strokers/

I think you need to log in at yahoo to view? Quite the cache of info there.

I couldn't ever find anything worthwhile.

[philip_g]

Come spring I will probably be able to!!! ;-)

well if you need a hand let me know. I've not built a piston engine before (rotaries yes) and would love to see it done before jumping in myself.

[old_man]

If you have any questions or need any help, give me a call. I built my first stroker about 5 years ago. It has to be the best mod I have done to my rig.

[philip_g]

If you have any questions or need any help, give me a call. I built my first stroker about 5 years ago. It has to be the best mod I have done to my rig.

heeeey, it's my new best friend :D

I'll have TONS of questions.

[onetallmj]

Use a crank and rods from a 4.2, search for the best casting #'s then you can use the pistons from a regular 4.0. When I built mine I put in Comp Cams extreme 4x4 cam that has a wide HP band and met California emisions.

Save some money up and do it right the first time buy quality stuff and you won't regret it.

[philip_g]

I found a crank for 25 bucks, it might need some polishing but I'll take a gamble with it.

I found a block to trade for, I'll use his then he'll use mine.

I need pistons and con rods, bearings, gaskets etc and I guess I'm on the way.
With the block I'll be able to build slowly over the winter, then swap the motors in a day or two next spring after the threat of snow is gone.

Need to get the block bored and the crank cut down.

[old_man]

I didn't bother to cut the crank down, I just machined a spacer. Trying to jig up the crank to cut off the nose is a royal pain. Somebody over on Yahoo Stroker forum had them for a few bucks a couple of years ago. If you can't find them, let me know and I will knock one out for you.

4x4 Used Parts in Fort Collins had a complete builder 4.0L for around $100. They normally do a crank and rods for me from a 4.2L for about the same. I used the heavy crank because I was running a stick shift. I now run an automatic. If I were to do it again for the automatic, I would go with the lighter crank.

I used the H802CP pistons and decked the block .020 to .030, I can't remember exactly. I run the Crane low rpm cam. I run the cheapest gas I can find with no ping or problems. It sure is a kick going over the Eisenhower Tunnel and passing everything on the road.

[philip_g]

Thanks, the spacer sounds like a good idea.

Who did the machine work for you? or did you do it yourself?

[Frank Z]

I used the heavy crank because I was running a stick shift. I now run an automatic. If I were to do it again for the automatic, I would go with the lighter crank.
Why? I'm asking because I've got the heavy crank (12 counter weights) setting next to my block in the garage. The stroker (if I ever get around to it) will go infront of an AW4.

[Hypoid]

Inertia; that stored energy stuff.
Not so important with an automatic, really helps smooth out starting with a manual. If you want mileage in a street engine, or acceleration in a strip engine, you don't need the parasitic loss. If you plan on lugging, hauling, or bogging, the stored energy helps to overcome resistance to torque.



Or so it's debated...

[philip_g]

so the extra half litre or so really makes that much difference?
I don't know if the current engine is just tired or not running right but the thing is a complete dog. I should probably do a compression test.


Whats the easiest way to pull the engine out of these things? Doesn't look like you have room to pull the engine and trans together. How about the radiator? Can you squeek by? Looks like it has to come out too.

[Frank Z]

so the extra half litre or so really makes that much difference?
YES!! Remember, there's no replacement for displacement.

Regarding the crankshaft, so far everything I've indicates that the larger crank is a better option due to it's weight and strength.

[philip_g]

I don't know if mine is a heavy or not, it's out of a 1985 Jeep CJ7

hopefully it'll be OK, seller said it needs to be polished but has no pitting. A light scratch on one of the journals though. I assume some emory cloth maybe scuffed down a little will be ok to polish it but I really don't know :confused:

http://i2.ebayimg.com/05/i/08/8e/e1/51_1.JPG

[Frank Z]

Looks like a lighter crank, 4 counterweights. Here's a link that might help.
http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/selection.html

[philip_g]

cool, I got the crank cheap enough that I'm not sure I really care about the weight.

[Rockken]

I don't know if you have seen this web site before, but I'm also planning on doing a stroker build soon and found this site. He seems to have some good information.

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/stroker.html

[Frank Z]

See Post #26

[philip_g]

can anyone suggest a machine shop to cheaply (:D) bore my block and shave it a little?
South denver preferred but I can drive.

[RockyCodeHead]

so the extra half litre or so really makes that much difference?
I don't know if the current engine is just tired or not running right but the thing is a complete dog. I should probably do a compression test.

That's actually what started me on a rebuild. My 4.0 just isn't performing well and it leaks oil like crazy.

Whats the easiest way to pull the engine out of these things? Doesn't look like you have room to pull the engine and trans together. How about the radiator? Can you squeek by? Looks like it has to come out too.

Don't sweat the radiator, it's a piece of cake to remove. You'll probably want the top cross member and radiator out of the way so the cherry picker doesn't have to be so high. And you should be able to remove the engine and tranny together.

You'll have to remove the trim from around the lights, then remove the screws that hold the grill assembly on. Once it's out of the way, the electric fan, and fan shroud and something like four screws are all that holds the upper crossmember on. Remove the cross member and the radiator will be obviosly easy to finish off.

[philip_g]

cool, thanks.
It does look like a very easy engine to pull. Last engine I pulled out and rebuilt was a rotary, I think this will be easier.

Has someone on the forum written a step by step howto for the best and easiest set of steps to get it out?