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so im getting a 4.5" lift what else will i need. yr 2000

MaxxXJ

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bakersfield CA
ok, so my buddy is selling me the front of his 4.5" lift ( adjustable trac bar, adjustable LCA's 4.5 RE coils) and right now my xj has the LP D30 up front with 2" lift coils 3" lift shocks, blocks( temp fix until i could afford 3" leafs) with 3" shocks in the rear. i also plan to buy adjustable uppers too

heres the delimma, what else will i need before i install what i bought? should i need a new front drive shaft? how about a rear drive shaft? a full SYE? i dont wanna do a hack/tap

for my rear suspension i think im going to go with a 3" leaf springs with a 2" shackles i want the back end to sit a little higher so when i add a load it wont have alot of rake but i dont know if i should do 3" leafs and 2" shackles or 4" leafs and 1" shackles... should i find boomerang shackles or any 2" will be fine?

i want reliable, im still going to possibly run 31's maybe 32's up front with stock flares on it i know i can run 33's but my buddys jeep on 33's rubs everywhere and had to trim alot to fix it

ive searched but everyones xj is different help would be appriciated... thanks
 
Front ds will be fine.... if you are staying at 4.5" you might not need uca's. You might have some rear ds vibes but that can be fixed with a tc drop or a full sye like you said. The rear I would just get 4.5" full packs if you can find some cheap, or if you can affored new. Either that or get 3.5" full packs or aal, with MAYBE a 1" shackle in the rear. Unless you are planning to have enough weight back there all the time to make it sit level, I would keep the rear the same height as the front. Raked out cherokees look tarded in my opinion. Thats my 2 pennies.
OH..... trim that thing up and run 33's. You will thank yourself later.
 
You have (adjustable trac bar, adjustable LCA's 4.5 RE coils)
You do not need a Transfer Drop if you do a SYE and Driveshaft. You can keep your TC Clearance this way.

This is what you need IMHO.

XJ Stainless Steel Braided Brake Line Kit $99.99
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...en=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-XSBLK

Nitro 9000 (9000 Nitrogen Gas Shocks ride better than Hydros IMHO) for your Lift Height.
4 - 6" 9177/9178 http://roughcountry.com/shocks_jeep.html

Front Adjustable Sway Bar Disconnects
Rock Krawler Front Adjustable Sway Bar Disconnects $106.95
http://www.discountjeepparts.com/pr...27443?osCsid=8c7f7795cfbe55716b9790ac65c8d682

Drop Pitman Arm $39.95
http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/drop-pitman-yjtjxj-jeep-re2500-p-2590.html

U-Bolts Auto Zone

1.5/2.5" Shackles (RCX will do) The Longer the Shackle the more Flex you will have. It will allow the Leaf Spring to Elongate (stretch). $49.95
http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_shackles.html

Leaf Springs

mine is a combination of stock xj's, and two leaves from a 3/4 ton dodge pickup. good for 3.5-4" lift, and rides better than stock.

Here are some Dodge Van Leaf Packs also.

22797exp.gif



Years Description...................................................................# Leaves..Width..Measures (A*B)...Spring Capacity

70-97 1/2 Ton Van......................................................................4.............2-1/2......23*31..................1200

70-97 1/2, 3/4 Ton Van.............................................................4(3/1)......2-1/2......23*31..................1600

70-97 1/2, 3/4, 1 Ton Van (1 Ton with Side Bar Shackle)...5(4/1)......2-1/2......23*31..................1800

70-97 1/2, 3/4, 1 Ton Van (1 Ton with Side Bar Shackle)...6(5/1)......2-1/2......23*31..................2500

72-97 1 Ton Van with One Piece Shackle.............................7(6/1),,....2-1/2......23*30-3/4...........2750

72-97 1 Ton Van with One Piece Shackle.............................7(6/1)......2-1/2......23*30-3/4...........3250


Hope this helps.

Here are two different Budget Build Write Ups with 2 to 2.25" Bastard Packs within.

The Home-Brew 2″ Budget Boost Page is an Excellent Write Up for doing a 2" Bastard Pack Lift. It has all the Info and Photos on the "How To" that anyone would ever need IMHO.
FitchVA’s Home-Brew 2″ Budget Boost: http://fitchva.com/jeep/?p=56

Here is the other Budget Build by Martin Verburgt with a solid 2.25"s of lift:
http://www.rocklizardfabrications.com/home_brew_budget_boost.htm

Hope this helps.
 
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Whatever you do... do not go with Add-A-Leafs. They usually Flatten Out in just a few months. Mine did.

If you want Full Leaf Packs. Many Jeepers have had some problems with Axle Wrap and other Issues with the Cheaper Ones.

If you go with BDS. Lifetime Warranty and Fantastic Flex. But you have to pay the price.

http://www.bds-suspension.com/php/Order_by_pn.php
004209 (2) Jeep XJ 3" Rear Leaf Spring $380.12 $190.06 each
 
Front ds will be fine.... if you are staying at 4.5" you might not need uca's. You might have some rear ds vibes but that can be fixed with a tc drop or a full sye like you said. The rear I would just get 4.5" full packs if you can find some cheap, or if you can affored new. Either that or get 3.5" full packs or aal, with MAYBE a 1" shackle in the rear. Unless you are planning to have enough weight back there all the time to make it sit level, I would keep the rear the same height as the front. Raked out cherokees look tarded in my opinion. Thats my 2 pennies.
OH..... trim that thing up and run 33's. You will thank yourself later.

my buddies xj was 4.5" on 33x12.50x15's on 3.75BS and trimmed alot and still rubs, i kind of wanna do 32 10.5's or 235/85/15's which are roughly 32x9.5's im going to run my stock wheels for a little while so i dont want to go too big, im still running my stock flare no trimming as of yet, i still kind of want to keep my flares, they just look nicer to me.
 
Whatever you do... do not go with Add-A-Leafs. They usually Flatten Out in just a few months. Mine did.

If you want Full Leaf Packs. Many Jeepers have had some problems with Axle Wrap and other Issues with the Cheaper Ones.

If you go with BDS. Lifetime Warranty and Fantastic Flex. But you have to pay the price.

http://www.bds-suspension.com/php/Order_by_pn.php
004209 (2) Jeep XJ 3" Rear Leaf Spring $380.12 $190.06 each

i'd love to go with BDS, they seem to have the good name, it will be a toss up between a 4.5" leaf pack with BDS or RE, they are both roughly the same price.

You have (adjustable trac bar, adjustable LCA's 4.5 RE coils)updated, i checked the LCA's and they are NOT adjustable they just have a pivot point but they are suppose to be the older RE 4.5" setup
You do not need a Transfer Drop if you do a SYE and Driveshaft. You can keep your TC Clearance this way.A TC drop is free, but a SYE and drive shaft costs a shiny penny lol, i'll see what i have after i can afford the rear leafs, i might be sitting pre runnered out until xmas.

This is what you need IMHO.

XJ Stainless Steel Braided Brake Line Kit $99.99
http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merc...en=PROD&Store_Code=IROR&Product_Code=IR-XSBLK
my buddy they i got this lift from also has the ones he used for the 4.5" lift, now he went to 6.5" lift and got new cables so i may try and buy his...

Nitro 9000 (9000 Nitrogen Gas Shocks ride better than Hydros IMHO) for your Lift Height.
4 - 6" 9177/9178 http://roughcountry.com/shocks_jeep.html

Front Adjustable Sway Bar Disconnects
Rock Krawler Front Adjustable Sway Bar Disconnects $106.95
http://www.discountjeepparts.com/pr...27443?osCsid=8c7f7795cfbe55716b9790ac65c8d682
im going to try and modify mine to make them the correct length and quick disco
Drop Pitman Arm $39.95
http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/drop-pitman-yjtjxj-jeep-re2500-p-2590.html i'll look into this, idk how much it will help but i'll still look into it

U-Bolts Auto Zone

1.5/2.5" Shackles (RCX will do) The Longer the Shackle the more Flex you will have. It will allow the Leaf Spring to Elongate (stretch). $49.95
http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_shackles.html

Leaf Springs







Hope this helps.

everything you've listed helps me get me pointed in the right direction, thank you
 
my buddies xj was 4.5" on 33x12.50x15's on 3.75BS and trimmed alot and still rubs, i kind of wanna do 32 10.5's or 235/85/15's which are roughly 32x9.5's im going to run my stock wheels for a little while so i dont want to go too big, im still running my stock flare no trimming as of yet, i still kind of want to keep my flares, they just look nicer to me.

Well all xj's are different thats for sure. I have had 3" springs with 1.5" spacers in the front and an 3" aal in the rear for years and they havent flattened or sagged. I trimmed about 2" in the front and to the pinch seam in the rear with 1.5" bumps in the rear and I have no rubbing on the body at all. Just a tiny bit on the lca's at full lock. No sway on the rear either.
 
My leaning would be toward 1" shackles and 4" springs, gives you more compression/flex before the springs are at their limit / inverting, but then again I'm fairly new to this whole thing so take that with a grain of salt unless someone more experienced says it's a good idea. Also agreeing on the "raked XJs look stupid" thing, so either carry a bunch of random crap in the trunk or get springs that'll make it level how you normally drive IMO.
 
My leaning would be toward 1" shackles and 4" springs, gives you more compression/flex before the springs are at their limit / inverting, but then again I'm fairly new to this whole thing so take that with a grain of salt unless someone more experienced says it's a good idea. Also agreeing on the "raked XJs look stupid" thing, so either carry a bunch of random crap in the trunk or get springs that'll make it level how you normally drive IMO.

i always usually carry approx 60lbs of junk in the hatch ( my tow strap, a chain, a come along, my hitch shackle, my tow ball setup some extra shackles, the spare, junk yard tool box. and any given time of the week i throw my bikes in the back to go out on the trail with my girl... so fixing the mild rake shouldnt be an issue.

i was thinking 3" leafs with 2" shackles, and i dont think a 1/2" taller in the rear will be noticable, even if i got 3.5" leafs and a 2" shackle i dont think 1" will be noticable enough to matter
 
my buddies xj was 4.5" on 33x12.50x15's on 3.75BS and trimmed alot and still rubs, i kind of wanna do 32 10.5's or 235/85/15's which are roughly 32x9.5's im going to run my stock wheels for a little while so i dont want to go too big, im still running my stock flare no trimming as of yet, i still kind of want to keep my flares, they just look nicer to me.


Also though i did not do bump stops... so ya those will make a difference... i have some extended ones if you want them, there yours... also you comeing over tonight? If so ill give them to you
 
dont wanna do a hack/tap

Why not? Unless you are EXTREME, most of them, when done right hardly fail. Also, they are much cheaper. Also, don't know if this is an option your willing to consider but you could go with TNT UBE's that will give you .5" to 1.5" and also allow you to relocate shocks higher up on the axle. I went with this option.....used their 1.5" kit, RE 4.5" springs and 1.5" shackles to get a soid 6"s after I relocated the shackle box down and inward. I have a 33" spare, rigidco rear bumper with swingout and about 100lbs in the cargo area and it hasn't sagged at all after 2+ years and the springs were already 5 years old.
 
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well the u bolt eliminators look cool. and i was thinking about that route but they really dont help with flex.

my thing about the hack/tap is the labor involved, im fairly new to the xj scene, im good with my hands but everthing i've gotten so far hasnt came with instructions lol and as to spending a little bit more and having it pretty much bolt right in. thats a plus for me.

keep in mind this xj is from michigan... so its got rusty bolts everywhere =/
 
well the u bolt eliminators look cool. and i was thinking about that route but they really dont help with flex.

my thing about the hack/tap is the labor involved, im fairly new to the xj scene, im good with my hands but everthing i've gotten so far hasnt came with instructions lol and as to spending a little bit more and having it pretty much bolt right in. thats a plus for me.

keep in mind this xj is from michigan... so its got rusty bolts everywhere =/

Actually, I have a sh*tload of flex using the UBEs. Of course, it is probably more of a result of my modified shackle mount allowing my shackle to actually work the way it was supposed to.

Also, as far as labor and instuctions are involved, the hack n tap is far more easier than a true replacement SYE. SYE kits involve cracking open the xcase and modifying inner shafts. Hack n Tap is basically, disconnecting the rear DS, taping off the output shaft, placing the vehicle in drive and taking a 4" grinder wheel and holding it in one place on the tape line to get a square cut. Once that is done, drill a pilot hole in the end of the shaft, tap the flange on the end and tighten the bolt down in the pilot hole you drilled. It's really that simple! By the way, I am from Lansing, MI and I KNOW ABOUT RUST!!!
 
lol you want to come down to CA and do my hack n tap for me? theres a case of beer in it for ya lol

Dude, just an invitation to come to CA is enough and the beer is just a bonus!! If I had the funds to drive or trailer my rig to CA and hang out to explore, I'd do it in a heartbeat. Seriously though, it's not hard at all.
 
lol if i had the funds to trailer ur rig out here just to get ur rig out here u can pay for the gas to wheel it. i would. i actually finished my 4.5" up front and now he wants to sell me his rear leafs for another 100. so im going to take him up on the offer, i'll figure out if i need the h/t soon enough =/ hopefully i wont need it, and maybe just a t/c drop for now.
 
My 98 with 4.5 RE 4160 lift and full leaves gave me 9'' total lift from stock,including height from 32x11.50x 15 bfg MT's. The sye is a must or vibes suck,when I disc. front sways stuffing the 32's rubbed badly,trimmed some offending material on front,my thoughts now,GO BIGGER, after a year I hunger for 6'' and 33's,the lift bug is for real!!
 
more opinions, my sye was not bad to do,the H+T scared me so I did mainshaft kit,spliting the t-case wasnt bad,getting large enough snap ring pliers was struggle ,but the worst thing was getting access to @### bolts holding it to trans,wholy crap they sucked coming out need more joints in my arm,I had a tcase drop but hated it because no matter how I adjusted it getting tcase- in/out low gear was always a hassle,feel sye more solid setup then case drop,IMO....
 
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