Jeep doesn't start / dies

This problem has been perplexing me for the better part of a month.

Problem:
1. When I attempt to start the Jeep it fires and stays on as long as the key is in the start position as soon as I let the key go (returning it to the on position) it DIES :-(

2. When i do get it running (see below for how) it randomly dies an i have to put it in neutral and perform starting procedure. This happens anywhere from 1 to 4 times on my 1/2 hour trip on the highway to or from work.

A Little Info: When I purchased the jeep i was informed that it had a slow drain on the battery from an unknown source. Being i needed the jeep to run for a month so I could finish school I went with the easiest and quickest fix, I added a kill switch. Diagram below is for reference.




Starting Procedure:
Turn the key to the start position, get the jeep started, and turn the kill switch off before returning the key to on position, then the Jeep stays running.



What I have done: After reading many forums, a lot of searching, and advice of friends / family, I have Replaced the Starter Relay and the CPS

Neither of these parts have fixed my starting problem. I am assuming the CPS may take care of the cutting out while driving, But as i just replaced that part an hour ago i have not had the chance to test it. I will report back when i have.

feel free to let me know what you think.
thanx in advance, any help is appreciated

This thing is cool ---> iratefla

Hallo. The ignition switch on the steering column under the dash can be the problem. And what year?
And there are more important relays to watch. ASD relay. :laugh3:

'92 XJ

x2 on ignition switch at the base of the steering column. could have a burnt connection or its out of adjustment.

after driving it the last couple days, it seems the random cutting-out has stopped. one problem fixed.

i too have wondered if it could be the ignition switch... that will be the next part i replace.

I hate to say it but i am not familiar with the ASD relay. the xj is a 90 limited.

You are in replace mode. Buy a multimeter for $10 or so and change to diagnose mode. If you have time to replace parts, you have time to figure out what is wrong. In fact, you waste a lot of time replacing parts based on guessing.

I can understand your logic. Also i do have a multi-meter. Just never really used it.

Not knowing the past of the jeep, how hard it was driven or serviced, i figure any new part i put on it can't hurt.

After writing those two statements i see the ignorance in just buying new stuff guessing that it will fix the problem. knowing the jeep has electrical issues, I will familiarize myself a little more with the multimeter.

thanx for the advice

Sounds like a problem with the starter, mechanical, electrical, solenoid not disingaging, based on the kill switch diagram, and stated symptoms, which may or may not be drawn right?

Definitely sounds like an ignition switch problem too. There is linkage involved from the key lock mechanism and the transmission NSS switch to the ignition switch (electric slider multi-position switch). The linkage could be out of adjustment if the prior person replaced the ignition switch with out getting the linkage just right. The ignition switch bolt holes have a slot that allows one to move the switch up or down until the linkage is just right, so that is starts in the start position, runs in run, etc.

thank you for the heads up on the ignition switch. i have purchased one and will be putting it in in the morning.

wish me luck. from what i've seen this will be a pain

XJ.Atticus said:

thank you for the heads up on the ignition switch. i have purchased one and will be putting it in in the morning.

wish me luck. from what i've seen this will be a pain

Click to expand...

Yep, the pain is usually in the right side, lower back area, LOL!

good call... being a pain that is.

didn't fix the problem. instead i gained an annoying buzz while in the on position.

The buzz - not as loud as the "lights on" reminder, softer and seems to be a slightly higher pitch

next i will be replacing the starter, which i don't think is the problem, but my roommate happens to have a new one laying in the garage.

Any ideas, getting desperate.......

also, even with the retarded start sequence the "heep" is becoming harder to start. yesterday after getting it started it would die. not immediately but idle would fade very quickly until death.

What about the fuel pump relay and if it has one, the ballast resistor. If the relay or ballast resistor is bad, you will have fuel pressure during craning, but not once you let off the key.

try this,unplug electrical connector from map sensor,try to start it,my 92 cherokee did this and wouldn't run with the thing plugged in.unplugged it runs.maybe your battery is getting low,could need to be recharged,will cause all kinds of problems if PCM isn't getting the proper voltage to the many sensors.

IIRC I did not say the ignition switch was bad, but the ignition switch mechanical linkage to the NSS and the key lock mechanism might need adjusting, alignment. Also the individual wire connectors, push on crimp terminals (female) in the bulk connector can get dirty and loose, and make poor contact with the ignition switch.


But I am a little lost as to what problem(s) remain, and which if any have gone away?

jeffrey803 said:

try this,unplug electrical connector from map sensor,try to start it,my 92 cherokee did this and wouldn't run with the thing plugged in.unplugged it runs.maybe your battery is getting low,could need to be recharged,will cause all kinds of problems if PCM isn't getting the proper voltage to the many sensors.

Click to expand...

Your problem with the MAP sensor was not at all typical, in fact it was the only one I know of. Very rare.

out of complete desperation i will go unplug an plug the MAP sensor to see if i too have an a-typical problem...

**crosses fingers and prays to a number of gods** Be right back

ECOMIKE--But I am a little lost as to what problem(s) remain, and which if any have gone away?


Well, at first the CPS (crank position sensor) fixed the randomly dieing stuff. and i was left with the problem of getting it turned over while the key was in the start position then dieing once i returned it to the on position. as of yesterday after getting it started it idles own until death and twice it died on the road. but when it dies now it feel different than when it was the bad CPS...

Hopefully this update helps someone help me...

You might want to consider taking the kill switch out. One less variable in solving the equation. My neighbors riding lawn mower gave him the exact same symptons, start problems, stalling problems, etc...turned out to be a flakey kill switch under the seat.

XJ.Atticus said:

I was left with the problem of getting it turned over while the key was in the start position then dieing once i returned it to the on position. as of yesterday after getting it started it idles own until death and twice it died on the road. but when it dies now it feel different than when it was the bad CPS...

Hopefully this update helps someone help me...

Click to expand...

The first problem, if you still have it, sounds the ignition switch needs to moved, slide it up or down a little before lock down, or look for a bind problem in the linkage like I mentioned before. The lock down, bolted possition of the ignition switch is adjustable, there is a slot where the bolts go through.

The other problem may be a dirty IAC, Idle Air Control valve, also called an idle air stepper motor. They get carbon gunk built up in the valve seat and pentle (piston seal) areas.