PornstaR said:
Now that we are on the subject of upgrading electrical I bring this to you Mr. Kelley. Just to give you a little insight on the world of car audio (and totally not trying to be a dick here either) The upgraded battery supply cables you have designed have been being used for actually quite some time. I bring up the "BIG 3". The big 3 is :
1 battery neg to chassis
2 alt. to battery positive
3 chassis to engine
So this is not a new invention since the wheel. The cables that are used in car audio actually carry (depending on quality of course) quite a bit of load and have very very thin hair like strands also. But I do have this one question for you since you are here, I see no where on your page (and is a nice page at that) for the cables there is no fuse between the alt. and the battery positive. Now this has been the total beating of a dead horse and argued time and time again. The talks have been about the alt. spiking and causing an overload to the battery. Just wondering your insight on the fusing part.
Again this is not an attempt to be rude, disrespectful or the like. Just an informative discussion.
And your page reminds me of BASF.... "we dont make the battery cables we just make them better" LOL
No trouble with me at all.
To answer your question (In Re: the fuse between alternator and the rest of the vehicle) that's why I offer the ANL retrofit kit - not only to restore fuse protection, but to allow you to upgrade it (if necessary - for, say, a Mean Green 200A alternator.)
Typically, tho, an alternator
current spike is caused when the input to the regulator gets shorted to battery supply voltage - I've not seen it happen in years, and most
internally-regulated alternators are built to disallow it anyhow. I'd say it's more likely with an externally-regulated unit (old Delco, old Motorola, old Prestolite, Nippondenso, and the like) due to the fact that the field terminals are relatively exposed, and a wire could fall on them. Internally-regulated units commonly use some sort of plastic shelled plug (Molex, Delphi Weatherpack, Deustch, or whatever) to "double-shield" the regulator terminals anyhow - and only a massive wiring fault would cause a short to supply on them. Since the battery mains also tend to be isolated (by design, mainly) from the field terminals, that doubles the protection (if you check the alternator subharness on Chrysler-built XJ's, you'll probably find the mains lead from the alternator bundled in with the two leads for the field coils.
Nicht gut - it should be isolated and/or shielded and/or "double covered.")
Typically, the option taken by people would be either ordering the "all except" kits listed (all except the alternator output circuit) and replacing/updating the alternator output later, or getting the "all included" kit with the ANL retrofit installed. Very few people still get the "all included" kit
without the ANL - the "two-stage" install is probably more typical.
If you should have any more specific questions, tho, I'd like to keep them backchannel - especially if this starts wandering into "sales talk." It's still "tech talk" for the moment, and I'd like to keep it that way while we're on the boards here (I should probably start a blog page or a small BB for discussion at my site...)
