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1996 Cherokee Classic, Power Windows Issue

T

teknowolf

NAXJA Forum User
Location
eht,nj
Hey guys, I was registered here a long time ago under a different name. I recently bought another Cherokee Classic, this time with power windows. No power window functions work. I've looked online, and found some things. No bad fuses, or relays(that i can find). I can't hear any relays fire while sitting in the cab. Does they use the same 3 from Power Locks? My locks work. The switch seems to be fine, judging from a multimeter and the continuity setting. There are about 3 unplugged things under the drivers kick panel, from the previous owner. 2- Female 2 wire plugs, 1 single orange male, and a 3 pin female receiver(pink,Yel/Red,Yel). None of them will fit together or are the same. The guy had them working at one time, tore up the carpet, and Rhino Lined the inside( admitting he washed the inside with water). Ever since then they don't work. My biggest concern is the lack of any relay noise, which leads me to believe its bad or missing, if it is in the cab.


Any Ideas?
Thanks
J:patriot:
 
Many times the wires break in the door transfer. That may not be your problem, but I thought I throw it out there.

Get a schematic, FSM would be helpful.
Each rocker is actually 2 independent double pole switches.
In center each switch is centered. Left and they engage one set of contacts on one switch and an opposite set of contacts on the other switch (think one set connects the positive and the other switch connects the negative. Right and they reverse the position of the contacts so that the polarity to the motor is swapped.

Check to see that you are actually getting power and return (ground) to the switch. Check to the car chassis, not the door.

If you have that, make sure the doors are actually connected to the switch. Power the windows manually if you have to to make sure what you have is real.

I helped and aquaintance with his inoperative windows, and we thought we had everything, but the groud to the body was faulty. We ran a new wire though the transfer and attached it to the body and all was good again.

HTH!

-Ron
 
Another recent thread had a picture of the ground under the front seat. Don't remember which seat. He had Rhinolined and a bunch of shit wouldn't work until he redid that ground by scraping away the chit.
 
Along with what Ron said. I saw a thread somewhere where this guy did the same thing as the po and lined the interior. There's a ground wire from the harness that comes out of the pass side and attaches to the floor somewhere under the pass seat. He has some gremlins until he cleaned the liner off and got a good connection.

Also, there is a dedicated fuse for the windows in the fuse panel. Make sure it's good.
 
Does anyone have a picture of the actual Window Relay? All power is good, and Ive checked the lines all over the place. Also my ground under the seat is good, the guy already has no rhino lining on it. He told me he removed a 3 Prong Cylinder Relay, that hes going to look for, and im wondering if its the relay to actually operate the windows, since no relay fires when i use the switches.
 
There are no relays for the windows. The switches provide power directly to the window motors. The simply switch polarity to "up" or "down".

Here's the schem from the 93 FSM. Maybe not exactly like your but may help.

pwrwin93.jpg
 
I'de say its about 16 gauge. Tan or orange, its hard to see in the dark. lol it fits in a ton of places in the fuse box. I plugged it into #3 area, before the actual fuse would go.

-J
 
I'm having the same problem on my 1996 sport. Any chance you can post a pic of the wire/fuse box? All my connections seem to be solid but you never know!
 
96 sport here with the same prob........... it just happened overnight. Only difference was that it was a little cooler overnight than it has been. No switches on any door work, the lock is not enabled (and I don't even use that switch)....... 30amp fuse in spot 6 has continuity and the orange wire mentioned is definitely plugged in and secure. As far as I can see, nothing else is affected, only the windows.

I haven't had a chance to check for the ground under the seat since I discovered the problem only on my lunch break.
 
Nothing like a follow up with a fix! So when I left work my windows were working again....got home and decided to tear into it. It was the old broken/severed wire scenario. I couldn't believe the way the wires were cut inside the door/body junction! It looked like someone just precisely cut a slit around each one. The main pale orange one was only connected by about 1 strand and the insulation. I soldered it, patched everything up then wrapped a bunch of electrical, then duct tape around the bundle to hopefully prevent further breakages.
 
Thanks for the replies. I checked my wiring and everything looks OK...time to break out the multimeter and start troubleshooting!
 
I found a "tan" color wire that I guess could be a faded orange and that's solid. Can't see any loose wires. Is it worth swaping out the switch panel?
 
ehall said:
duct tape backing is conductive

:nono:
Click to expand...

well the duct tape was over the electrical tape, just kind of providing an extra layer of insulation for the hard edges of the hole going through the body. None of it was in contact with any wiring directly :) I knew enough not to use it on wires because of some info I saw somewhere about a guy using it under his hood on some wiring.... it ended up melting through and starting a fire!
 
StillJeepin said:
I found a "tan" color wire that I guess could be a faded orange and that's solid. Can't see any loose wires. Is it worth swaping out the switch panel?
Click to expand...

That could very well be it... I'd call mine a REALLY faded orange. I also noted that this wire wire was of a much heavier gauge than the others in the bundle going through the body.
 
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